The God of Rice – a Fushimi-Inari pilgrimage.
From the beginning of time we humans have worshipped mountains. They are the highest and most impressive elements of any …
From the beginning of time we humans have worshipped mountains. They are the highest and most impressive elements of any …
18 March 2019 I really wanted to hike the Nakasendō, a 534-kilometre ancient highway between Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo). It …
12-25 March 2019 I’m either too early or too late. The best time to see the wisteria in Tokyo is …
13-14 March 2019 It begins with a long mournful drone on conch shells. The sound fills the air like a …
A short anecdote about childhood curiosity: When I was ten years old and living in Melbourne, I was in a …
11-26 March 2019 After thirty hours of non-stop travel from Delhi we finally arrive at our Airbnb in the Gion …
20 March 2019. The houses are lined along the shore like soldiers, creating an organic seam that joins the sea …
27 April-16 May 2018. Trains I’m on a train from suburban Fuchu heading back to my hostel in Central Tokyo …
2 May 2018. I met a man on the train going to the Shibazakura Festival. He bragged about being a …
14 May 2018. I take the train past the stop for Arashiyama and travel on to Kameoka. I’d read that …
9-15 May 2018. From the outside it looks like you’re entering a dark tunnel that goes on forever. Even though …
9-15 May 2018. Kyoto is old, but she is no old dame. She is an ancient goddess in a flowing …
10-15 May 2018. I have six full days in Kyoto but I lose two of them. I lose the first …
9-15 May 2018. In 1950 a disturbed 22-year-old novice monk burned down the five-hundred–year-old Rokuon-ji Temple in Kyoto, and then …