First I want to say how surprised, moved, and grateful we are for the outpouring of kind and supportive comments we received regarding Don’s health scare. Thank you to all of you who read, and/or commented, liked, and shared his story. We have truly felt the caring from this wonderful online world we inhabit, both here and on Facebook. What a gift it has been to hear from you all, what a comfort. We have sensed the healing energy that surrounds us. Thank you!
Don continues to improve, and we both continue to learn to navigate our changed circumstances and roles in this life we have together. It’s not always easy, but the love we have for each other, and the support from family and friends pulls us through. We grieve what we have lost, have hope for the future, and celebrate all we have and are grateful for right now; and there is much to be grateful for.
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But now for Santorini! I will tell you about magical Santorini.
We are shown to our room in Fira. Barely looking at it I walk straight through to the balcony, and there gaze out on the much-heralded sapphire waters of the Aegean Sea. I have arrived, finally, on Santorini.
This small island has captured the imagination of the world since antiquity, its singular beauty making it somehow a mystical, enigmatic place, a jewel of creation that shines among the brightest in the world. It’s no wonder it has been considered a mythical island since ancient times, and holds its own special place in Greek mythology.
On a more prosaic note, I’ll begin with a little excerpt from Don’s notes. I love the way he records all the mundane details of travel:
7 June 2022. It didn’t take long to get to the ferry port in Heraklion, and the taxi driver charged us only six Euros. What a deal! Upstairs on the ferry we began on one side of the ship, then Alison saw free window seats on the other side and raced over to grab them. I went to the coffee bar to get a cup of tea. This was the worst tea so far in Greece: hot water with milk already added and the teabag still in the saucer. Like drinking hot milky water. I ate my leftover roll from last night’s supper then didn’t feel great for the rest of the trip.
Finally, after two hours on the Aegean Sea, I saw Santorini for the first time: steep cliffs and white houses.
The ferry was not going to stop there long because it was continuing on to Naxos. Alison got our luggage, and off we went to find a taxi. They were all taken, but across the street were a number of men holding big TAXI signs, so we held our noses and went to chance our luck with the freebooters. At first he wanted 30 Euros for the trip, but after we made noises about being ripped off in Greece, he lowered it to 20 Euros. Then we followed our driver to a mini bus and waited for it to fill up before finally leaving. It took about half an hour up winding roads to get to Fira. After dropping off a number of other passengers the driver finally stopped and said abruptly Lefteris, and after unloading our cases, pointed down a road off to the left. We were stranded, but google maps showed us the way. It was only a few minutes walk, but down a very steep road to the sign for Lefteris Traditional Rooms, which pointed down a flight of stairs.
Because we’re protecting Don’s hernia I’m dealing with all the luggage – two backpacks and two cases. Manoeuvring all that down a very steep hill with uneven pavement is, um, challenging. And hilarious. The cases go rolling all over the place, but eventually I get it done with no people or luggage harmed in the adventure. And then down the stairs, into the room and out onto the balcony for the view. We’ve arrived!
Fira. Thera. Thira. Santorini. What are the correct names? The official, and ancient name of this group of four islands left by a massive volcanic eruption some 3600 years ago (which formed the caldera that Santorini is famous for, and which largely contributed to the fall of the Minoan civilization) is Thera, though Greeks call the main island Santorini (Saint Irene), which was the name given it by the Latin Empire in the 1200’s. As for the town, the island’s capital, it is also called Thera. Or Fira, an alternative pronunciation. So the island is Thera, and the town is Thera, but the island is called Santorini and the town is called Fira. Or Thera and Thera. Got it?
Either way it doesn’t matter. What matters is we get settled in and then set out to explore. We are pleased with our lodgings. It’s in a quiet area a good fifteen-minute walk from Tourist Central – a procession of restaurants, cafés, bars, hotels, tour operators, and shops along the main street and clustered around the cable car station and the Orthodox Cathedral. We do venture there briefly for information about the hike to Oia and boat tours, but for the most part stay well away.
We climb the stairs from Leftheris up to the blue-domed yellow Church of Agios Efstathios at the top,
and make our way along the maze of traditional winding streets of this ancient whitewashed town clinging to the top of a cliff some 400 metres (1312 ft) above the sea.
It is endlessly and utterly endearing, delighting us at every turn with hidden chapels, vibrant bougainvillea spilling over stone walls,
arched doorways,
and skulking cats quickly disappearing from sight.
We walk this labyrinth of alleyways
at least twice a day over the course of our three days in Santorini and never tire of them, enchanted by their charm and entertained by the anomalies: a pink house!
and Taboo Santorini, the local sex paraphernalia shop.
It’s just so unexpected, seems so out of place in this town and island that seems more like a Disney set in its perfection than a real place inhabited by real people. And by creatures.
One of our very favourite things about this walk to the centre of town is that it first brings us to Pelican Kipos. Once discovered we never look further for a place to eat; not quite three meals a day, but close. We did the same in Goreme in Turkey. If you find a good place to eat – close by, reasonable prices, and good food – why look elsewhere? Pelican Kipos ticks all these boxes, but the biggest selling point is the garden setting. It’s a soothing place of refuge, and I sit there feeling very lucky, so lucky; it’s a feeling so big I don’t know where to put it, what to do with it, as if I’ve somehow expanded inside and don’t know who this new space belongs to.
We are both surprised and delighted by the Greek tradition of giving small free desserts after a meal. At one restaurant in Athens it was small individual chocolate cakes with ice cream, in Chania it was sweet semolina (though I didn’t like this one so much), in Heraklion one place gave us really intense chocolate mousse, and another place gave us yogurt with caramelized grapes. At Pelican Kipos it’s crême brûlée. Heaven.
We book a boat tour, get directions for the beginning of the hike to Oia, go home for a nap, and then walk the alleys again, this time to take the long zig-zag staircase down to the old port, passing some of the famous Santorini donkeys along the way. At one time they were the only form of transportation available, and thus became the symbol of the island.
It’s the end of the day for them and we watch their wranglers steering them back up the hill as we head down.
I read in more than one place that it’s better not to ride the donkeys as there are concerns over their welfare. Apart from that I saw one woman riding up on the back of a donkey and she looked grimly uncomfortable; an endurance test that was possibly worse than walking up all 587 steps.
The old port, known as Gialos, is at the bottom of the cliff below the town and is used as the boarding place for boat tours of the caldera, as well as being home to the local fishing fleet.
Walking down is easy, but we’re definitely not walking back up again. There’s a cable car and we gladly take it.
It’s getting towards the end of the day and colour is starting to appear in the sky.
After stopping for dinner we head home, arriving just in time to watch the sunset from the balcony.
Santorini is a big backwards “C”, the southernmost of the Cyclades Islands, with its back towards Turkey to the east, and its front door facing the caldera, or cauldron, that makes it so unique and special. In ancient times it was a round island, and part of the Minoan civilization, but an enormous volcanic eruption blew a hole in the centre of the island, which sank a large portion of it to the bottom of the sea and created the caldera. Some believe the portion at the bottom of the sea is the mythical lost city of Atlantis. Perhaps it is.
Fira, and three other villages, are located on this western side of the island. They are perched on the cliff, looking out towards the still-active volcano in the middle of the caldera, and are famous for their iconic blue-domed churches,
cliffside paths, and panoramic views.
Lonely Planet describes Fira thus: Its caldera edge is layered with swish hotels, cave houses and infinity pools, all backed by a warren of narrow streets packed with shops, more bars and restaurants. And people. Beyond the polished surface of the main tourist areas . . . . . the prices of fame are exposed: frenetic vehicular activity, meandering pedestrians along the roads (there are few pavements), and frenzied development.
But that’s not our experience at all, perhaps in part because we are not there at the height of the season, we stay away from the busy areas, and we certainly can’t afford any of those swish hotels with infinity pools.
We are completely bewitched by this most unique of islands, as millions before us have been. I always remind myself that there’s a reason a place is overrun with tourists – it’s because it’s really special, and really worth visiting. Santorini is like that, and of course this beguiling place is the subject of a Greek myth; an erotic dream, a secret pregnancy, and a story of love and longing.
While on the island of Anafi, Euphemus dreamed he made love to a beautiful nymph. All in a dream. She said she was pregnant and feared the wrath of her father. It emerged that she was Aphrodite, the goddess of love and beauty, her father was Triton, son of Poseidon. She must hide from their power and needed a place to give birth and raise her child. She asked Euphemus to throw a clod of earth into the sea. All in a dream. On awakening, as Euphemus sailed away he threw a clod of earth from Anafi into the sea. Miraculously an island emerged. The child was named Theras, and the island became known as Thera. Euphemus was never able to forget the sweet dream of the nymph and in his longing returned again and again to the island hoping one day to find his lost imaginary love. Thus, according to ancient Greek mythology Santorini was born of a love story and formed by a miracle. Of course it was.
Next post: A four-hour hike from Fira to Oia along cliffside paths and then along the jagged ridge of the island’s long curve to the west.
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2023.
here’s hoping for don’s continued recovery and for your ongoing approach to acceptance and change. Santorini looks absolutely magical
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Thanks so much Beth. Santorini is indeed magical. As is Don’s continued progress 💕
Alison
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Thanks for these beautiful photos of Santorini, a place I’ve always wanted to see, but it seems unlikely I ever will. How wonderful that you were there!
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Thanks so much Suzy. I can hardly believe I finally got to Greece, let alone Santorini! We absolutely loved Greece and hope to go back one day.
Alison
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Absolutely one of our favorite “beautiful” spots in the world. Thanks for the gorgeous photos.
Steve
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Thanks so much Steve. Santorini is so special, I’m not surprised it’s one of your faves.
Alison
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I can’t get the “same day delivery” promise from the sex shop out of my head. So many questions!
I’ve heard folks rave about Santorini but have never gone further than that until now. I love this first installment and can’t wait to see more!
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Lololol Don and I both had a chuckle at your comment. I must admit I wondered about that sign myself. I had another photo that explained more, but it’s no longer on my computer. Maybe it was for videos or s’thing like that.
Thanks so much Felicity – glad you enjoyed the post. Santorini is for sure overrun, but you can avoid that, and it is still a most magical place.
Alison
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Loved your blog post! It was insightful, engaging, and impressive. Your expertise and talent shine through.
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Thank you so much for your kind words Abbas. I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Alison
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Great to know Don is improving. Thanks for all the tempting photos. One day I’ll get to Santorini.
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Thanks Peggy. For all the hype, (and yes, the over-tourism), Santorini lives up to it. Well it did for us anyway. You cannot escape the extraordinary setting – it really is special.
Alison
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As you say there’s a reason so many tourists flock to Santorini. Your pictures and descriptions make it sound as enchanting as I want it to be. Maggie
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Thanks so much Maggie. It really is enchanting. There’s tourist infrastructure for sure, which we made use of for bookings etc, but you can avoid it and still experience all the best this magical place has to offer.
Alison
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I love the myth and the real place, the colours of the sunset and your pictures. Well done, Alison!
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Thanks so much Astrid. I too loved the myth – so appropriate, as if the ancients already knew what a special place it is.
Alison
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I was only there on a day trip, many more years ago than I care to remember, Alison, but some memories never fade. Sitting on one of those beasts of burden as it nonchalantly looks down the cliff face… not the best experience I ever had, but worth it for the view from the top. And then it was all over with the swift ride back down in the cable car. I would have loved to stay but we were based in Paros. Magical days! Love to Don!
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It’s a special place for sure. I get why you’d still remember it.
We had to decide between Paros and Naxos and chose the latter.
Even if they were well treated I still think I’d have chosen not to ride a donkey – looked way too uncomfortable.
Don doing well!
Alison xo
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🤗💙
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As you say, these overrun places are like that for a reason, and only a cynical, hardened traveler would skip the charms of Santorini! You were smart to go at a non-peak time. I went first with my Greek grandparents in the ’70s and remember us all taking the donkeys up – as you note, not a particularly comfy ride. But aren’t they adorable? I know they are probably dirty, grumpy, and (very sadly) over-worked, but I just find them so colorful and sweet-looking. I went another time with my husband and kids and my parents (no donkeys for us that time), but both stays were too short. I’d love to go back with just J and settle in there for at least a week, maybe more, and do what you did – just amble around, find a favorite place to eat, and absorb all those brilliant whites and blues and yellows. Heaven.
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I agree the donkeys are adorable, I was so thrilled to see them.
It must have been amazing to be there so long ago, before it became tourist central. Still we were very lucky in our timing and location – early June, and staying a bit away from the centre was just right.
I know for sure we’d love to go back to Greece; it makes a very short list of countries we’d like to return to, though not sure we’d choose Santorini again even if there’s much to see there that we missed out on in pacing our 3.5 days there. Still, I feel we got the best of it, and sensed its magic.
It’s a truly special place, like Venice. One of those places you can hardly believe is real.
Alison
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Ohh, I had no idea that the Greeks have a tradition of giving free desserts after meal! Now it makes sense. A few years ago, James and I went to this Greek restaurant in Jakarta. We ordered so much food and at the end the owner gave us a free dessert. We thought he did this as a token of appreciation for us for having ordered so much.
Now speaking of Santorini, what a spectacular place it looks like! I’ve seen many images of it, but here you remind me again of why this part of the Cyclades is such a popular place for tourists. But of course, its ties to the Minoan civilization and its creation story will be among the main reasons for me to visit this island should I ever come to Greece and have enough time to explore the Cyclades.
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Isn’t that tradition of free desserts fabulous! We had no idea either, but everywhere was the same. Such a generous gesture.
Santorini is definitely spectacular, and popular for a reason. It really does feel mythical and mystical despite the numbers of people visiting.
We didn’t visit the Minoan ruins there, in part because of limited time, and in part because, apart from a couple of murals, the far more interesting ones are on Crete and in the museum there.
I hope you get there one day!
Alison
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There’s something about the mix of whites and blues that makes that place more spectacular – it must be even better in person. We’re off to Greece for a tour next year, but alas, no Santorini.
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We went to Crete, and to two other of the Cyclades islands, and none of them have the blue and white like Santorini. It’s a really special place anyway, but that adds to it.
Have a fabulous time next year! We loved Greece and would happily go back, with or without Santorini.
Alison
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Alison, you had me pulled in from the very first photo… I’ve been meaning to get to Santorini (and Greece in general) for the longest time. I was supposed to join a group trip that was scheduled for October 2001, but then it was abruptly canceled in the wake of 9/11. I’m glad the island lived up to expectations and that you made the wise choice of staying away from Tourist Central. The sunset view from your balcony is truly jaw-dropping – I’d take that over an infinity pool any day!
Loved the creation myth, and of course the look and feel of Pelican Kipos. Bama and I have friends who traveled around Greece for 2-3 weeks some time ago and they ended up painting their apartment in blue and white because of Santorini. But they complained that they got bored of Greek food after a while (which we found pretty shocking).
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Thanks so much James. I’m glad you enjoyed it. Santorini definitely lived up to expectations. It is such a special place, a bit like Venice in that there really is nowhere like it.
I was delighted to find that creation myth, it so exactly suited the island and the specialness of the place despite it having been changed by tourism.
Pelican Kipos was a real winner. I hope you get to Greece, and Santorini one day, and get to have a meal, or two, in Pelican Kipos.
Alison
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Alison, I am so glad to hear that Don is improving. I have been off Facebook and off everything for awhile try to take care of myself as I’ve been under some stress as well. So I apologize for not sending my thoughts, hugs and wishes your way. You are an inspiration to me!
Santorini is where my husband and I went for our honeymoon in July 2000. It is such a special place! I am excited to read more about your time there. We stayed I believe in Oia and had a breathtaking view of the Caldera.
Take care of yourself and Don. Thinking of you immensely. 🙂
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Thank you so much Nicole. I’m so happy to hear I’ve inspired you – it means that I’m able to paying it forward, as so many others have inspired me.
A honeymoon in Santorini! How very special that must have been!
I hope you’re taking enough of a break to properly take care of yourself. You are so amazing the way you approach life.
Big hugs back
Alison xo
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Oh thanks Alison. It has been tough as I have on and off again anxiety. When it comes it is hard to motivate myself but I’m doing the best I can right now. 🙂
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Doing the best you can is all that is ever required of you. Sometimes taking a break from everything *is* your best, and actually is the best for everything/everyone and for future outcomes. Nurture yourself – you’ve earned it. It’s ok to be unmotivated until true inspiration strikes – then motivation will be easy. If I’ve learned one thing it’s that you can’t force life. It happens of its own accord. Trust the unfolding. Much love and hugs.
Alison
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Love these words Alison! Thank you for sending them.
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What a great place to visit. Such wonderful photos and stunning sunsets!
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Thanks so much Nikki. I’m so glad we went to Santorini, it’s such a beautiful place. Thanks for visiting.
Alison
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Thank you very much! Beautiful pictures and good information for traveling 👍
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Thank you so much. I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Alison
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Charming as all heck!!!
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It really is. Definitely worth a visit. It’s kind of a bucket list place (though it wasn’t for us) and now I know why.
Alison
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So beautiful and bewitching, the shining white buildings and blazing sunsets. Hmmm… interesting to think that’s what Atlantis may have looked like! Enjoyed the mythical story of the creation of the island. And so glad to hear Don is doing better.
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Thanks Ruth. Most definitely beautiful and bewitching. I’m glad we went despite it being over-touristed. It deserves the hype, and we were lucky to not be there in the high season. I thought the myth was so perfect.
Alison
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