26-29 May and 18-20 June 2022. It’s not an auspicious beginning.
The taxi driver from the airport starts taking us to the wrong Ibis Styles hotel. Eventually we clarify the situation but a half hour journey becomes one hour, and costs 50 Euros instead of 38. No surprise taxi drivers in Athens are as ruthless as anywhere.
We splurge on a 4-star hotel that we discover is anything but.
Our first evening I’m nauseous from the food I have for dinner.
At the hotel I discover I’ve left my laptop on the plane.
From Don’s notes about getting back from the airport after collecting my computer: This was another comedy of errors as the cab driver insisted on turning on the meter despite Alison telling him not to; and then he didn’t know where the hotel was despite us showing him the address in Greek and showing him a map with the hotel marked on it; finally he asked me to phone the hotel so he could speak to them, which I did, but I had my hearing aids in my ears, so he couldn’t hear what the person I spoke to was saying; so I had to take out my hearing aids and turn them off, then redial the hotel and ask them to speak with him. This seemed to do the trick, and we got within a block of the hotel which was behind us on a one-way street. At this point we told the taxi driver to pull over. I’d seen that the meter was reading almost 80 Euros by this time. I was angry about yet another taxi driver trying to rip us off, so I asked Alison to go and negotiate a better price. She ended up giving him 50 Euros, and we walked away.
Taxi drivers the world over! They will get you coming and going. It’s as if we have a signboard saying I’m a tourist you can rip me off! Even after all these years we still get caught from time to time.
So. Not an auspicious beginning. It can only get better right?
The real problem is that we’ve just spent three weeks travelling all over Croatia and are exhausted. We should have booked a week in Athens, or back in Dubrovnik, or anywhere really, to just decompress, do nothing, switch off, NOT be tourists. It’s a lesson we learned long ago, but forgot in our mad planning for seven weeks in Croatia and Greece. I doubt we’ll forget again.
But! We are in Athens! We are finally in Greece! It’s the first time for both of us and we must discover!
We discover, apart from that first meal (choosing quinoa salad was obviously a mistake), that the food is fabulous. We are drooling over Greek salad made the way the Greeks make it, we are stuffing our faces with souvlaki and tzatziki and dolmades and spanakopita. After Croatia, where we found the food to be generally mediocre, we are in heaven (sorry Croatia). From Don’s notes: dinner at Alysandratos P Kai restaurant where we have a huge Greek salad and melt-in-the-mouth boneless grilled chicken thighs: filling and delicious.
We discover the best breakfast for the best deal on the planet. We walk past Coffee Joint and see a sign board – four-egg omelette for five euros! We make sure to ask how early they open. We try to go another day but can’t find it and hadn’t make a note of the name. Then we find it again only to discover it’s closed on Sunday. Finally, third time lucky! The people are charming, I get excellent coffee made just the way I like it, and it is seriously the best omelette we’ve ever eaten, and easily enough for both of us.
We discover that it’s a long walk from the hotel to “Old Athens”, the area around the Acropolis known as the Plaka. Of course that’s where we want to be so there’s a twice- (or four-times) daily walk through real Athens, as opposed to tourist Athens. Don’t get me wrong, touristy places are full of tourists like us for a reason; it’s because there’s something there worth seeing. Naturally we explore the Plaka, and go to the Acropolis and other ancient sites, but it is a great delight for me to walk through a local neighbourhood; a place where Athenians live, a place that ordinary people call home; a part of the city that most visitors would not see. A bit of sleuthing tells me that it’s a neighbourhood called Gouva, and it is not listed on any of the recommended places to visit in Athens. It’s just a regular local neighbourhood in a very big city.
Here’s what we see: walking the dog, hanging with friends in the local bar, walking home, the local restaurant, kids in the schoolyard, laundry hanging, awnings against the hot sun, plants spilling over balconies, overhead wires, parked cars, daily life. Every day we see that, no matter how different it is, in so many ways it’s just like home.
Clinging as high up as possible on the slopes of the Acropolis, the Plaka neighbourhood flows down to the valley that cradles this city surrounded by seven hills: Acropolis, Ardittos, Philopappou, Lycabettus, Pnyx, Areopagus, and Nimfon.
The Plaka is the Old Town of Athens, clustered around the northern and eastern slopes of Acropolis Hill, with its narrow flagstoned lanes,
neoclassical buildings, Byzantine churches, cafes, and restaurants,
and tantalizing antique shops. I love shops like this, and could spend hours looking at all the curios, enchanted by hand-crafted beauty, but usually don’t because I know I won’t be buying anything.
The Plaka is no doubt the most touristed part of the city, but there is plenty of charm to be found there nevertheless: the life, the energy, the music,
the art. This is one of several of a curly haired woman painted by the same broken-hearted artist. She broke up with him so to remind her of his love he painted images of her along her route. Better than stalking I guess. Just joking.
There is charm also to be found away from the main streets overflowing with souvenir shops. And it’s impossible to walk the area without getting constant glimpses of the Parthenon on the Acropolis. It’s like magic. We’re flaneuring as usual, wandering here and there, looking for the back lanes, the streets away from Tourist Row
and suddenly looking up there it is – this iconic sight that I’ve known about since childhood. Even after multiple glimpses it never loses its appeal, even after we’ve dragged ourselves out of bed at dawn and climbed the hill to see it up close, it still never loses its appeal, this ancient site that has informed our understanding, however superficial, of both the ancient and modern world. It seems to me it’s one of the most basic things a child of the western world learns about in school. Is there a single one of us that does not know about the Acropolis, even if it’s just that it’s Ancient Greece, and that it’s in Athens? And so we wander the Plaka, frequently looking up, and being astounded every time.
The Plaka, an area that has been inhabited since antiquity, is known as the “Neighbourhood of the Gods” not only because it butts up against Acropolis Hill, but also because of the many other archaeological sites in the area such as Hadrian’s Gate, seen in an enigmatic glimpse down one of the lanes.
Hadrian apparently was everywhere. Apart from his famous wall in England, we’ve seen monumental arches or gates named after him in Jordan and Turkey, there’s also one in Italy, and the remains of another in Jerusalem, and no doubt there are others. It’s like ancient monumental graffiti: Hadrian was here!
If you go as high as you can up the eastern slope of Acropolis Hill there’s an area of the Plaka that feels as if it doesn’t belong in Athens. How did this little gem of a neighbourhood get here, on the slopes of the Acropolis? Although it is listed on most tourist sites it still feels mysterious, out of character, and somehow impenetrable with its whitewashed walls and tiny narrow lanes and stairways.
You enter here, down this somewhat uninviting graffiti-and-street-art-covered passageway sprouting weeds and a few hardy mediterranean plants.
As you go higher the lanes get narrower and narrower. Everywhere there are potted plants overflowing with vibrant flowers, whitewashed walls and brightly painted doors, colourful shutters, and lazy cats.
The streets, all pedestrian-only, widen out into leafy green areas in some places,
but always there’s that feeling that you’ve been teleported out of Athens and landed somewhere else. The whole place feels like a secret.
It is known as Anafiotika, and was founded by workmen from the island of Anafi in the mid 19th century. Land was cheap in this area above the city; it had been inhabited by refugees and slaves since antiquity. So the workers built their houses here in the same style that they knew at home on the Cyclades island that they had come from, as they built King Otto’s palace down in the city.
Eventually, arriving at the top
we follow the stone path along for a look down from above on the jigsaw puzzle that is Anafiotika,
and further along for one of the best views of the city looking across to Lycabettus Hill.
We don’t have that much time in Athens but it’s enough to give us a feel for the place. We don’t fall in love with it, but then we rarely fall in love with big cities; our love of Greece comes later when we start island hopping. But we do discover much more than I’ve shared here. Apart from traipsing through Gouva, and exploring the Plaka and Anafiotika, we also go to the Acropolis, and the Acropolis Museum, the Agora of Athens, the meat and fish market, and the wonderful spectacle of the Changing of the Guard in Syntagma Square. All that to come in future posts.
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2022.
Loved the sequence of shots on the pedestrian-only streets through Anafiotika. Not heard many rave about the food in Greece… maybe the advantage of going off-piste.
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Thanks Keith. I loved Anafiotika. I wish I’d been able to see inside one of those houses, or even one of the tiny courtyard gardens.
The food was great! We didn’t go off-piste that much, and we’re easily satisfied I think. At the same time we had several meals in Croatia that were barely ok – boring and lacking flavour mostly. You, of course would be comparing it to French food which is a whole other conversation, though one of the worst meals we’ve ever had was in Paris. You win some you lose some.
Alison
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Interesting perspective, Alison. For a good price and good taste, we actually favour Catalonia. With Paris, it really is a matter of local knowledge… plus accepting that just because you are in France, it’s not de rigueur to eat ‘French food’. In September, while in Paris, we ate Greek, Japanese and ‘French’. On the other hand, when we do want to ‘eat French’, we have several places where we know we’ll consistently get super food… unless the restaurant changes ownership!
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We also ate a wide variety of non-French food last time we were there – Cambodian, Vietnamese fusion, Indonesian. I don’t think we ate any French except the bread and pastries. The really awful meal was at a place serving some kind of fusion food. I have a feeling I just chose the wrong thing, though one could argue there shouldn’t be a wrong thing. So next time you’re in Paris I recommend Tien Hiang (in Republique) for Asian fusion (fabulous) and not Le Bichat (also in Republique – terrible chicken rice bowl).
Next time we’re in Paris I’ll get your recommendations before we go!
Alison
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…love the pics and the adventure
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Thanks so much Indra. Athens was definitely an adventure. We loved Greece, but Athens was a bit of a challenge at times.
Alison
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Hurray! We’ve arrived in Athens! I expect seeing the Acropolis is a lot like seeing one’s first castle – an almost Christmas-morning-like feeling of having waited for something so long that you can’t quite believe you’re actually experiencing it.
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Yes! Finally in Athens! Oh you got it just right – that almost Christmas-morning-like feeling. How many years have I waited to see the real thing, and when you do it takes your breath away!
Alison
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The streets of Athens are a tourist destination by themselves. Great pics.
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Thanks so much Peggy. I agree, and I do wish we’d had more time there to explore more.
Alison
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The whitewashed walls and painted doors are what call me in those last few images, Alison.
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Aren’t they wonderful! I loved that little neighbourhood.
Alison
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🤗💗
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Oh Alison. I haven’t thought of Athens for quite some time even though it has been high on my wish list, but then this blog post reminded me of that longing for seeing the Greek capital in person that I’ve been feeling since probably 2004. It’s nice to know that you found the food delicious, as was my case when I went to this Greek restaurant in Melbourne, and another one back home in Jakarta. There’s just something about Greece, and Athens, that is endlessly fascinating.
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Oh I do hope you get there one day Bama. I know that longing for sure! For all the travelling I’ve done it took me until I was in my 70’s 😳 to finally get to Greece. Greece made the list of countries we’d like to return to! It’s wonderful.
Alison
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These words and photos gave me a deep pang in my heart. As you may know, my mother is from Greece, and many of my teenage memories revolve around trips there with my grandparents. Later, we went with my parents and our kids, a trip that remains one of the highlights of our travel life. Even local Greeks go to the Plaka area; we have had many family meals beneath the Acropolis! Just seeing your street and storefront photos takes me right back, and I’m happy that you got some joy out of Athens even though it is a truly maddening city at times.
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We did get some joy out of Athens, and honestly I’d love to go back when I’m not so travel-weary, and explore more. There are very few entries on our list of countries we’d like to return to and Greece made the list. We fell in love with the islands.
I did not know your mother is from Greece! You must have such a wonderful connection to the culture and to the people. I’d like to explore Athens with you one day – that would be amazing.
Alison
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love it
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Thank you 🤗 🙏
Alison
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I so remember the alleyways and steps. But where are all the cats?
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I do love old hillside cities for the alleyways and steps – something so organic about them that feels like a hug.
I know nothing about the cats. We hardly saw any 😢 just a few up in Anafiotika. Oh yes, and a “guard cat” 😂 up on the Acropolis.
Alison
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It’s beautiful 🌻 I love your work 👍
am a traveler also..
as much as I love to roam the world I also love to meet travelers and show them around the beautiful adventurous, historic and business friendly environments of Ghana 🇬🇭..
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Thank you so much. 🤗 I’m glad you’re enjoying my blog.
I would love to come to Ghana one day!
Alison
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Come on 👍 that is interesting to hear you are most welcome 🌻
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मैं कभी नहीं देखा था लेकिन आप की वजह से देख लिया ।
धन्यवाद
In English: I had never seen but because of you I saw.
Thank you.
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Thank you Ram. You’re most welcome.
I was able to translate your message from Hindi.
Alison
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Alison, you brought back so many memories with your gorgeous photos and oh-so-accurate descriptions of life in Athens. We lived in Athens in 2011-12 and had so many impressions similar to yours. Yes, the food is to-die-for! I had to laugh at your tale of the taxi driver because we had the same experience! Thanks so much for bringing back those memories. ~Terri
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Thank you so much Terri. How fabulous that you lived there! I really wished I’d had more time there; we only had a few days. I’m glad to know that my first impressions were fairly accurate.
Alison
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I so enjoyed your descriptions of the neighborhood. We seldom get this feel for a place beyond the big sights to see. I keep thinking about the broken-hearted artist and his pictures of his love.
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Thanks so much Ruth. I’m so glad we got to explore that residential neighbourhood a little. I do love to get off the tourist track and see what ordinary life is like in the places I visit.
Alison
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Oh, those scintillating side streets and back alleys – and that light, ahh! Your comments about the Acropolis are well-made and what a cool thing it is, seeing it from an ordinary street. I like your neighborhood views and am tempted to go to Greece now (not the first time you’ve tempted me to go somewhere!). The food would be another selling point. 😉
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Thanks so much Lynn. It really was a momentary astonishment every time we saw the Acropolis.
There are countries we’ve been to several times for a variety of reasons (India, Australia, Mexico) but apart from that we have a very very short list of countries we’d love to go back to. Greece made the list. It calls to me to explore more. I have many more blog posts to come about our time there, but feel as if we barely even scratched the surface.
Alison
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On the shortlist to return to, that’s interesting. What about language and politics? Obviously you got by without knowing Greek (at least I think that’s true!) but I wonder what the stumbling blocks were. And the political/economic situation, did that impact your visit? If you’re addressing these in a future post, I can wait. 😉
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Honestly we rarely think about politics, and I have no idea what’s going on politically in Greece. Is it particularly problematic? Language was never an issue, but like most countries I imagine it could be if you went to more remote places. My (limited) experience is that pretty much everywhere (and especially in Europe?) everyone in the tourism/service sector speaks English. We definitely did a skim-the-surface look at Greece, but we found it to be generally economically fine, however we did go to what I can imagine are the most prosperous places because of tourism – Athens and the Cycladic Islands.
Alison
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Thanks for such a thorough answer, Alison. I don’t pay close attention but I understand that corruption and inefficiency are rampant and there’s been a severe economic crisis for many years now. Unemployment was really bad at one point but I believe it’s better now. Here’s a video:
https://www.politico.eu/article/greece-exit-bailout-monitor-austerity-economy/
I can see how the problems might not be very visible where you were. What’s appealing to me is that even though you were in more prosperous places where tourists congregate, it didn’t look “touristy.” Of course, that’s because you guys know just how far off the beaten track to go! 😉
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Athens was one of our first experiments with independent travel so it feels extra special. We returned again in 2007 on our way to Rhodes and Santorini and loved every minute. Your photos capture the mood of the Plaka so well…I can almost hear strains of Sirtaki! But I love how you capture daily life on the streets even more.
Thanks for stirring fond memories Alison. Happy holidays to you and Ron!
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Apologies for misspelling Don’s name…my phone has a mind of it’s own!
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Thanks so much Madhu. There’s nothing like travelling independently is there?! I would love to go back to Athens, and indeed to Greece, and have more time there. We also went to Crete, Santorini, Naxos, and Milos, all of which I’ll write about eventually, and loved it all. Athens felt a bit rushed; it *all* felt a bit rushed. The whole country has such an incredibly rich history I felt as if our scant 4 weeks there was just enough to find out how much more I wanted to see.
Happy holidays to you and Ravi.
Alison
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Very happy to hear you recovered from a horrible beginning in Athen and Greece and found all the wonders of the place. The more I read your words and view the photos of all your posts, I realize you have a knack for finding the meaningful areas of the sites you visit. While I can imagine the wonders you saw (and ate), it was fun reading this and walking along the streets of Athens with your words and photos – I just could have used a Greek dish or two in front of me 🙂 Wishing you both a great ’23 ahead.
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Thanks so much Randall, I’m glad you enjoyed this little wander around Athens. I always love exploring the less frequented places. I’m really interested in how other people do life – in the differences and the similarities, so I seek it out. I’m very curious. Sometimes it gets me into trouble 😂
After Athens we fell in love with Greece and would love to go back sometime.
Wishing you all the best for ’23.
BTW is Dalo a nickname, of just a username for the blog – ever curious 😁
Alison
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Exploring those off-the-beaten-path areas are always memorable, and I agree it is the best way to get the feel for a place. I too would love to return to Greece, especially in the summertime as I did not get a chance to see any of the islands. As for Dalo, it is a nickname derived from Randall (my great uncle was named Randall but was always called Dalo). I hope your first week of ’23 has gone well, take care ~
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Really great photos!
I seem to never make it to Greece. The first time I tired to go by train as a student there was a war in Yugoslavia, the last time I ended up in Florida. But at least I made it to beautiful Cyprus and saw some Greek islands from Turkey – so I’m sure I will manage one day. 🙂
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Thanks so much! We fell in love with Greece, especially the islands. We spent a few weeks in Cyprus a while back, and yes, it’s very beautiful – we especially loved the Byzantine churches.
I would imagine the Greek islands near Turkey would be not so different from the ones we visited in the Cyclades.
Hope you get to see more of Greece one day.
Alison
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I too have to remind myself to take a rest day, or at least do nothing for several hours on my explorations in a new place. It’s so easy to get over-excited and want to see and experience it all as quickly as possible — like gulping down the entire chocolate cake one’s been gifted for a birthday!
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it’s nice your idea 🌻. would you love to visit Ghana 🇬🇭…? Such peaceful adventures, history, culture, castles and beaches would make your thrill…
From Accra, or maybe the culture/tourist village of LIATI WOTE with the evergreen Afadjato and Tagbo waterfalls. adventuring the tallest mountain in Ghana 🇬🇭 and relaxing at the nation’s most prettiest waterfalls with good cultural displays. Do you love honey bee 🐝..? will you wish to experience palm wine with Akpeteshi ( local gin) distillation…? or shall we go to Cape Coast to catch some canopy walk experience…!!!! you will love Wli waterfalls it is the tallest waterfalls in West Africa and the Mona Monkeys of Tafi Atome.
I am Kwame your EXPERTguide 🔑
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Oh I do love that analogy. We get to a place and don’t want to miss out so even while pacing ourselves most days we’re still trying to gulp the entire cake. I do think though that after our Croatia/Greece 7-week experience we’ll not forget the lesson of the need to take a break.
Alison
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A beautiful introduction to the true Athens, Alison. And I was laughing at the taxi experience. Ours took us to his brother’s restaurant where we had one of the most expensive meals I have ever eaten. Admittedly, it was really good food. I made my first visit to Athens in 1967 when they were jus wrapping up a coups. Soldiers with guns were running around everywhere.
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Thanks so much Curt. Taxi drivers everywhere eh?!
Athens in 1967 must have been really something. I’d like to have experienced that.
I’ve been taking a break from the blog – not planned. I just landed in Oz for 2.5 months and found myself in a completely different life. It was fabulous, and at the same time a little disorienting. Back in Van now and slowly getting reoriented. Will catch up on your posts soon!
Alison
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Noticed you had been missing and was glad when you liked a post. 🙂 Hope all is well. Different life seems interesting. Peggy and I head out for a trip up the Nile on Wednesday. –Curt
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Yes, all is well. OMG a trip up the Nile! Our 3-day cruise remains one of the highlights of all our travels. Have a great time.
A.
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Yeah, we are a little excited…
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😂 no doubt!
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