She looks at us aghast. She’s horrified.
You can’t do that! She says.
It’s a really long way! She says.
It will take hours. It’s not possible. She says.
We’re in a souvenir shop in Fira, one of many clustered around the cable car station that carries passengers from the old port below up to the town perched on the cliff 400 metres above. We’ve asked the young woman who works there if she can help us find the beginning of the walk to Oia, which is some ten kilometres away, but clearly she can’t, so we walk on.
A couple of stores down we ask again and receive the help we need. The older gentleman who works there knows all about it and points us in the right direction. We follow the path through the town for about half an hour, asking along the way. We want to be sure. The streets of the town are a labyrinthine maze that follow the contours of the land as buildings vie for the closest place to the edge of the cliff, and the views. Finally satisfied that we know where to go we head home. Tomorrow is the day!
Up at six. A cup of tea and a quick light breakfast and we’re ready to go by seven. Early morning is best to beat the heat. We’ve stocked up on a sandwich each, and juice and water. We’re all set.
Initially the path is through the winding streets of Fira,
and for the first couple of hours we’re in Fira, and then a bit to the north in Firostefani, and then Imerovigli. Our destination is Oia, at land’s end, where the inverted “C” of this island comes to a tip that steeply slopes down to the water. For most of the trip we can see Oia in the far distance enticing us forward.
These four towns on this western side of Santorini are all white buildings sculpted to fit the curves of the cliff, stacked one atop the other, clinging to the edge, all swish hotels with wide decks and infinity pools facing the water, all blue domes, blue doors, cascading bougainvillea. There are a million insta-worthy views here; every turn is a different postcard.
We are not aware of leaving Fira and entering Firostefani so closely are they huddled together. It’s a steep climb up but we barely notice; it’s the beginning of the day, I’m full of enthusiasm, and the view is glorious.
There’s a path we follow that meanders more or less along the rim of the caldera. Sometimes it’s a bit confusing but the general direction is north, with the water on our left. We barely ever lose sight of it. I am energized and happy. Don not so much.
From Don’s notes: 8 June 2022. The path initially involves walking on pavement past dozens of high end accommodations. There aren’t many people around, apart from the maids and cleaners doing their early morning routines. There are a few men moving large bags of hotel supplies on oversized dollies down steep flights of stairs. What a way to make a living! Something about these monuments to conspicuous spending irritates me and I’m feeling grumpy about us not being on the wilderness trail that I had expected to be walking.
That is yet to come.
There are cobblestones between Firostefani and Imerovigli,
and a bird nesting in a hole in the wall.
Soon enough we’re again back in the white beauty of a town: blue domes, arched doorways and roofs, and everywhere stairs leading up or down.
We see a couple of wannabe instagram influencers: the woman in blue above and the one in red below, the photographer arranging her dress just so. She sees me photographing her and gives me a wide smile, clearly enjoying herself.
I’m so naive, so out-of-touch with that world. It was not until researching this post that I discover that they pay for it. All those perfect shots of perfect young women dressed in long prom dresses, usually red, posing in all the iconic places around the world. I always thought to myself They travel with that dress? They stuff that dress in their luggage? Really? But no. They actually pay for a photo shoot. In Santorini it costs about $500 for the photographer and another $200 or more for dress rental. Quietly shaking my head. Not so much because they’re doing it, but because that’s what sells, that’s what gathers all the likes and loves and shallow adoration, and for the very very few an income. Maybe it’s a generational thing, but I don’t get it, and I don’t much like what they’re selling – women objectified. Again. But then the men also have their own insta perfect pose. It’s macho dude – in designer hiking clothes and backpack, back to the camera, at the top of a cliff, facing out to the void, one leg slightly bent, owning the world. I don’t actually have a shot of that though I’ve seen a few. I must get Don to pose for me one day!
Anyway moving on – to find a path through the convoluted town of Imerovigli; there are several to choose from. We stick as close to the water as we can, pass the occasional burst of flowers with a tantalizing view of the ridge to come,
and finally leave the town.
We’re on cobblestones now for quite a while. As we pass a couple of outlying hotels and resorts we have a clear view of the ridge ahead with the water to our left, and also at last we see water in the distance on the far side of it. We have come to where the land curves around forming the top of the backwards “C”.
This ridge is what we walk along, all the way to Oia. This is what Don has been waiting for. Truth be told, me too.
Our first goal is the church near the top of the hill.
Finally we reach it, this diminutive Church of Ekklisia Profitis Ilias, in the middle of nowhere.
We are grateful for it. We cannot go inside but it casts a shadow, the first shade since we left the towns, and a wall to lean against as we sit for a while, glad of a rest, a bite to eat, and water. Slowly we’re emptying our water bottles. We know we still have a long way to go as we look back to where we’ve come from.
There are tricky uphill and downhill sections with loose gravel underfoot. It’s challenging. In places the old cobblestones have worn away, breaking down to loose rocks. The path requires much attention and negotiation; it doesn’t let us walk easily.
We come to another church, the Chapel of the Assumption of the Virgin.
On and on we go – over gravel, over dirt, over loose rocks, occasionally passing others who are headed in the opposite direction.
And always there’s the view: the islands, the luminous blue water, and the wide blue sky. This is the best of Santorini, silent, peaceful, apart.
We walk ever onwards, each step bringing us closer to the town,
until at last we have arrived,
four hours after leaving Fira, hot, exhausted, and thirsty.
There’s a wide pedestrian boulevard that runs alongside the water the length of Oia, lined with shops, galleries, hotels, restaurants, and cafes, and we walk along it until we find the perfect place for brunch.
Don again: Orange juice, a strange but tasty meal of scrambled eggs, feta cheese, and baby tomatoes on a toasted sweet bun, then coffee for Alison and Earl Grey tea for me. Happy at last. We then go looking for a particular view of some blue-domed churches. Google maps was singularly unhelpful in directing us to them, but eventually after going in the wrong direction for a while we backtrack and find what Ali’s looking for.
It’s one of the classic instagram shots of Oia, and quintessential Santorini. Maybe I’ll actually post it on instagram. Or maybe not.
This also is quintessential Santorini.
Look how far the town slides down the cliff to get the best of the scenery, of that infinite azure beauty – all those fancy hotels with view decks and infinity pools, in their own way adding to it.
And it’s all accessed only with stairs – narrow paths, so narrow they can barely fit two people side by side, and stairs crammed into every last possible space.
We walk the length of the pedestrian boulevard along with a few dozen other people,
all the way to the ancient castle at the end, and a view of another classic instagram shot of Oia – the ancient windmills, once used for milling flour, but now converted to homes and hotels.
And from there also, a view back to where we’ve come from, the rugged ridge that curves back around the caldera to Fira.
Don again: After ice creams we find the bus stop to get back to Fira, and join a really long queue. A bus to Fira soon comes and the queue begins to move slowly forward. We only get half way to the bus before it’s full and takes off, but then the ticket seller tells us that another bus will be along in one minute. Hooray! The next bus arrives and we manage to get seats together towards the back of the bus, which continues to fill until it’s standing room only. The bus trip costs 1.50 Euros each for the 30-minute trip, our first, and possibly only, bargain on Santorini. I’ve walked a total of 24,793 steps today; a new record for me equalling 17.8km.
Through the magic and random happenstance of nature, back some 3600 years ago there was a monstrous volcanic eruption. As a result a fairly ordinary round island had a huge section blown out of the middle of it, creating a caldera, and leaving behind one small island, three even smaller ones, and this magnificent magical crescent-shaped one known as Santorini. The walk from Fira to Oia really illustrates the unique topography of the island, and shows us through the ever-changing infinite sapphire views just how special it is.
Walking from Fira to Oia is the best thing we do on Santorini. No wait; we also do a sunset cruise in the caldera. That’s pretty special too – next post.
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2023.
Thanks for sharing this idea..such an amazing site. Anita
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks so much Anita. I’m so glad you’re enjoying it.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
I want to rush back there this very second and do this walk, Alison. We were staying on Paros and only visited Santorini for the day. Even then it was a place for the beautiful people… and sunsets! I’m told it’s ruined by cruise ships now and the old ferries have been replaced by soulless modern ones, but if you look hard enough you can always find the real place. Thank you so much for taking me there!
LikeLiked by 1 person
My pleasure Jo! We didn’t see any cruise ships, but that doesn’t mean they weren’t there, and for sure Oia itself was pretty busy with what I would guess to be the cruise-ship crowd. Still, we managed to find something of the essence of Santorini I think.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh wow, so much beauty in your words and photos. Thank you so much for chronicling your “impossible” walk. I am so glad you didn’t pay here to the woman who said it couldn’t be done. What a luminous adventure in an illumined setting.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you so much Babsje. I was so so surprised by that woman saying it couldn’t be done when I’d read plenty of info online about it. I guess she was just used to dealing with cruise ship people.
I was a really fabulous adventure – in such a special place. I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
Instagram really has changed everything, hasn’t it? Ten years ago, I barely saw women wearing dresses and high heels at places like these. Anyway, this looks like a really nice hike, Alison. The part where you walked over the ridge is particularly stunning! Those shots of the whitewashed houses with the backdrop of endless blue skies and deep blue water really capture what Santorini is all about. Just marvelous!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks so much Bama. Yes, just marvellous! I’m so glad we did this hike. It really helped make Santorini special, much more so than hanging out in Oia which is what most people do.
The whole insta thing puzzles me. I see sites where every image on it is of the person whose site it is. I just don’t understand it, not being part of that world. It’s not my thing I guess, since I’m pretty much only into photography and travelling online.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
The views really are glorious. Such an incredible outing and 24,000-plus steps. Wow!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It truly was a fabulous outing! I’m so glad we did it. It really gave us a sense of what Santorini is all about. And yeah the views – not enough superlatives.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
What a physical challenge and a beautiful view!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It was really fabulous – both the exercise and the views. Definitely worth the effort. It gave us a much better sense of Santorini than most people get.
Alison
LikeLike
Peggy and I thought about doing that walk, Alison, but we didn’t have the time. So we took the bus to Oia and hung out. We loved the beauty of the town and churches. Thanks for the revisit!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’m glad we had the time to do the walk. A friend who’d been to the Cyclades just before us said 2 days on Santorini was enough, and I’m not sure I entirely agree. We had 2 full ones, and most of a 3rd day and am glad we did – giving us time for the hike, which was definitely a highlight. Glad you enjoyed revisiting 😁
Alison
LikeLike
What fun to live in a converted windmill! That sounds so — romantic? Unusual? Must be the castle lover in me – I feel like it would basically be like living in a castle tower.
Fav picture in this post: it’s a 3-way tie between the bird nest in the wall, the Church of Ekklisia Profitis Ilias, and the gal straddling the wall.
LikeLiked by 1 person
I’d just love to see inside one of those windmills! Even better – be able to afford to stay in one 😂
I always enjoy your photo choices because they’re usually not conventional. Of the three you chose my fave is the girl. She was hard to pass by without snapping a pic of her. As was the bird.
Alison
LikeLike
Staying in one would be grand! Oh, for that kind of budget. 😛
That unusual taste in photos is both a blessing and a curse. I find most art at most museums entirely uninteresting. I usually find people to be so, as well, which is one of the reasons I enjoy your blog so much – I see the world very differently through your pictures. 😀
LikeLiked by 1 person
I also find most art in museums uninteresting. Spent most of my (admittedly short) time in the Louvre looking at Russian religious icons. Now people – there we differ. I find people fascinating, but only in small doses, unless it’s Don. 😂
I’m glad I show you a different way to see the world. win-win
A.
LikeLike
Thanks for the great post! The idea to walk from Fira to Oia to explore the whole thing is really nice. As a photo addict, I always like to walk and stop to take photos. Do you still remember what date it was? I saw from the Fira street photo which you took (~07:00 am?), and the sun was already there. Is it possible to start walking from 5:00 am to get a sunrise photo and avoid the heat? Anna and I are thinking of visiting there in Fall.
Our best wishes to Alison and Uncle Don.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks so much Kenny. This hike was one of the best things we did on Santorini for sure.
We did the hike June 8th (last year) and sunrise was at 6am. I don’t see why you couldn’t start walking at 5, or maybe 5.30.
You really had me doing some sleuthing to find out when I took that photo and it turns out it is actually in Firostefani, so was probably taken at about 8am. (I think I hadn’t properly set the time on my camera which records it at 10am. This can’t be right as we were in Oia by 11).
We really enjoyed out time on Santorini. It’s definitely a special place, and by the fall won’t be as crowded.
Also recommend a Fira restaurant called Pelican Kipos.
Hope you have a fantastic time.
Best wishes to you both too. Hope you’re doing well.
Alison
LikeLike
This is fabulous, Alison – I can’t get over the vivid blues of the sea and sky contrasting with the darker volcanic landscape and the whitewashed buildings. I would probably have used up a whole memory card on this hike alone! And given the lack of shade on the ridgetop trail outside the towns, I’m so glad you and Don had the good sense to wear a hat. The young woman at the souvenir shop probably had no idea she was speaking to two veteran globetrotters!
Self-absorbed Instagrammers are such a bore; Bama once told me about visiting a gorgeous hillside ancient temple complex with an acquaintance, and at one point that person wanted to have his picture taken in various poses. The photos had to be reshot over and over again because he wasn’t happy with the results. Sadly social media has fed into the continued rise of “mindless tourism” here in Indonesia, whereby people visit places only because they are Instagrammable and are seen as good backdrops for selfies. Surprisingly few travelers are actually interested in learning about the history and culture of a place and the people who inhabit it.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you so much James. The blues there are truly extraordinary, and infinite. Every turn brought a new beautiful vista. Doing this hike was the best of Santorini.
Oh yes, we had hats! And water and juice, which ended up being just enough to get us there.
I’m guessing that the young woman in the shop only meets people from the cruise boats, who I doubt would even know about the hike.
Oh I love that phrase – “Self-absorbed Instagrammers are such a bore.” This absolutely sums it up. They do not care about where they are, the history, the people, the culture. They only care about getting the perfectly posed shot. So sad.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
First of all, the walk looks amazing – right up my alley! Kudos to you two for doing it!
As for the Instagram posers … I was unaware of this trend until recently also when I met a woman on my flight to Qatar who was on her way to Thailand almost solely for photos of herself in various places there. She had multiple photographers lined up and numerous outfits. She showed me her Instagram gallery, which blew my mind!! She spent so much money and time to travel, and the only goal was to get pictures at high-end hotel rooms with pools and views, wearing crazy over-the-top dresses, bathing suits, etc. I was flabbergasted and actually kind of disgusted by it all.
P.S. I’ll be on the lookout for that photo of Don on a cliff in very macho hiking clothes!
LikeLiked by 1 person
The walk was amazing and I’m so glad we did it. It was a highlight of Santorini for sure.
The woman you met on the plane! Wow. If it’s high-end hotel rooms she probably gets paid for it; maybe she’s one of the few that actually makes a living at it. Good for her I suppose, but I don’t like what she’s selling. I’m both flabbergasted and disgusted too. Like most advertising they’re selling the fantasy that if you have this you’ll be happy/fulfilled/etc.
Lol I hope I can get that shot of Don 😂
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
Beautiful pics. And well done for doing the hike, and proving the “impossible” possible.
I have a limited appreciation of Instagram, and selfies are a head scratcher (why?) The notion of paying someone hundreds of dollars to take a picture of me somewhere on the off chance I might “influence” people? I don’t get it.
On the other hand, I do try to entertain and maybe educate with my blog. Does that count as influencing?
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks so much Dave. It was a great hike – not so impossible after all 😂
I wonder if that young woman learned anything more about it after our enquiry.
Oh selfies are a head scratcher for us too. I think in the maybe 10 years we’ve had cell phones we’ve taken maybe 3 selfies. I agree – why? And yes the whole influencer thing is just a bit weird, but paying big $ for a photoshoot takes it to a whole other level. Again – why?
Entertaining and educating definitely counts as influencing – in a good way!
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
I did that hike with the love of my life, also called Alison. Memories.
LikeLiked by 1 person
How lovely. So happy to have sparked some good memories for you.
I don’t think we’ll forget it any time soon.
Alison (best name ever! 😂)
LikeLike
Hahaha…best quote from Don: “Google maps was singularly unhelpful in directing us to them.” I’ve long wondered what the hype about Santorini was. You’re the first traveler whose made me think I need to go there, if only to replicate this gorgeous walk of yours, minus red ball gowns.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks Atreyee. Santorini deserves the hype despite the over-tourism, and the cruise ships, and the bucket list and “romantic getaway” nature of it. It has an indefinable magic, and a centuries-old lore that somehow infuses it if you’re away from the main centres, even just a little. We managed to avoid the crowds (except for a bit in Oia) by going in early June before the major influx of the high season, and by staying a little away from the centre in Fira. We didn’t really see that much of the island having only 3 days there, but what we did see made us glad we went even tho for us it had never been on any must-see list. The previous post about the island, and Fira, tells you more about our experience.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks for sharing wonderful photos that I am sure I won’t be able to visit in this lifetime.
LikeLiked by 1 person
My pleasure, I’m glad you enjoyed them, and that I could give you a little taste of magical Santorini.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
One of the more subtle joys I have when traveling is the little preparations for an adventure the next day. I love how you open this post with just this feeling ~ “Finally satisfied that we know where to go, we head home. Tomorrow is the day!” And what an adventure you had beyond the beautiful white glimmering towns of Santorini; I agree the ridge to Oia would be a highlight, along with the goal of enjoying Oia in its glory. After reading this, Santorini is a place I must see 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Oh yes, I do enjoy the day-before prep – making sure all is in readiness for the morning. If nothing else it means I sleep better 😂
It was a marvellous adventure and I highly recommend it. I also recommend Santorini – there’s something quite unique about it, a special energy, and definitely a special landscape. There is a reason people have flocked to it for decades (millennia?). Avoid the high season when I’ve heard it becomes impossible, and explore beyond the obvious places, and of course hike the ridge.
Alison
LikeLike
Wow! An amazing hike. The photographs alone are worth it!
LikeLiked by 1 person
It really was amazing. I’m so glad we did it.
Thanks Darlene.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
If I can recall, we walked from the harbour where we got off the boat to Santorini. Very hot. And long. I was with 2 Greek-Canadians who could speak and read Greek. I grew up with them in Waterloo. That trip was about 30 yrs. ago…when things were incredibly cheap in Greece.
LikeLiked by 1 person
It must have been so very different 30 years ago. You probably arrived at Fira and walked up the long zig-zag staircase to the town from the port. It’s still inexpensive than more western European countries, but not cheap for sure.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
It’s on our list!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Highly recommend it. Santorini’s a bit of a Disney theme park, but this hike, and a cruise around the caldera definitely make it worth it.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
Great job, you two! I did the same walk, but my starting point was Firostefani. The view was stunning, but I got bored after a while 😛 Stunning photos as always, Alison. The weather was just perfect.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thanks so much Len. I must say we did not get bored 😂 but Don was for sure happier once we got past the villages and onto the ridge. And we did have perfect weather for it.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
Totally agree! The ridge is the best part.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Good to see you’re still at it, guys! There was no cable car when I was in Santorini, you had to take a donkey, I walked up. Did you get down to see the Minoan village on Santorini? I’ve retired, been living in Bali for last 4 years.
LikeLiked by 1 person
We are still at it, well blogging anyway. I have so much material I’ll probably never get to the end of it.
Sadly, due to plain old age our travel days are behind us.
I think you mean Akrotiri, and no we didn’t get there. We went to Knossos on Crete and loved it. I researched Akrotiri and it didn’t look like there was enough there to entice me.
Living in Bali eh! That must be difficult 😂
Good to hear from you. Don won’t be able to, but maybe I’ll get back there one day.
Alison
LikeLike