Tags
Banaras, Benares, Indian people, Indian people images, Kashi, people of India, photo essay, photography, travel, Varanasi
*It’s coming on Christmas
They’re cutting down trees
They’re putting up reindeer
And singing songs of joy and peace . . .
Don and I are in Montreal to spend Christmas with family. This post has nothing to do with Christmas. It’s about Varanasi. Because . . . . inspiration.
I wrote a little about Varanasi in a recent post of travel highlights, as well as in two posts that I published close to the time we were there in 2012. This time it’s a collection photos, some of which can be found in those three earlier posts, some of which are published here for the first time.
The religious and cultural heartbeat of India can be found in Varanasi, the most sacred city for Hindus . . . . Also known as Benares, Banaras or Kashi, Varanasi is the holiest of the seven sacred cities in Hinduism. Karen Macrae
Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together. Mark Twain
Hearing about Benares is different from reading about it; but seeing Benares is different from either hearing or reading. The Gospel of Sri Ramakrishna
The city illumines truth and reveals reality. It does not bring new wonders into the scope of vision but enables one to see what is already there. Where this eternal light intersects the earth, it is known as Kashi. Diana L. Eck.
Enlightenment, and the death which comes before it, is the primary business of Varanasi. Tahir Shah
Here religious feeling reigns supreme, and no sensual thought ever seems to assail these beauteous mingled forms. They come into unconscious contact with each other but only heed the river, the sun, and the splendour of the morning in a dream of ecstasy. Pierre Loti
I would love to live near Haridwar or Varanasi since they are such holy spots for Hinduism. Julia Roberts
All India flocks thither on pilgrimage and pours its savings into the pockets of the priests in a generous stream, which never fails. Mark Twain
My first intellectual challenge was to try to understand this incredible city of Banaras (also called Varanasi) in India and its meaning for Hindus. Diana L. Eck
Early in the morning we crossed the ghat, where fires were still smouldering, and gazed, with our Western minds, into the Ganges. Mary Oliver
It is a strange city where you can feel like a dweller and an alien at the same time. Richa Chadda
Varanasi sits above the earth as a ‘crossing place’ . . . between this world and the ‘far shore’ of the transcendent Brahmin. Diana L Eck
I found Varanasi absolutely staggering. I have never seen anything like it before. The city just spills into the river Ganges… It’s really, really extraordinary! Brad Pitt
I think Banares is one of the most wonderful places I have ever seen. It has struck me that a Westerner feels in Banares very much as an Oriental must feel while he is planted down in the middle of London. Mark Twain
Benares is holy. Europe, grown superficial, hardly understands such truths anymore…..I feel nearer here than I have ever done to the heart of the world; here I feel everyday as if soon, perhaps even today, I would receive the grace of supreme revelation . . . The atmosphere of devotion which hangs above the river is improbable in strength; stronger than in any church that I have ever visited. Count Hermann Keyserling
Making a pilgrimage there in Banaras every day for a whole year, still she did not reach all the sacred places. For in Banaras there is a sacred place at every step. Padma Purdna, cited from D L Eck
Throughout December and January there are more than thirty holidays and celebrations in various countries around the world. So Happy Holidays everyone! Wishing you all health and happiness. May 2022 be better for us all.
Next post: Christmas – in Vancouver and Montreal.
*River by Joni Mitchell
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2021.
It’s so hard to make out all these eyes contacts.
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I’m not sure exactly what you’re meaning Lookoom, but definitely in many photos their eyes are very bright and intense. Indians do generally love to have their photo taken, and are happy to look right at the camera.
Alison
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Your photo Esau captured culture and smiles – and reminded me of the lovely colors of Indian clothes
🙏😊💚
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Thanks so much Yvette. India’s such a mix of crumbling chaos and beautiful bright colours. And the culture is so rich and unique. I’m glad I’ve managed to captured something of it.
Alison
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wow – that crumbling chaos is a powerful phrase.
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Thanks 🙏
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Fascinating place!
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Oh yes! Most fascinating.
Alison xo
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Wonderful images with so much colour.
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Thanks so much Peggy. It’s a favourite place for sure.
Alison
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I rarely comment but I just want to say your photographs and posts bring me enormous pleasure. Wishing you a very happy future and may you continue posting far into the future
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Thank you so much Eleanor! 🙏 💕 Your comment made my day. It’s so lovely to hear from people who rarely comment, and that they are enjoying the blog. It’s very encouraging.
I definitely plan on continuing to post for as long as I can.
Wishing you also a happy future.
Alison
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I always look forward to your photo essays. Your images are not only beautiful. They are evocative and as they say, a picture speaks a thousand words.
Much love and light to you and Don.
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Thank you so much Jen. It’s encouraging to hear that I’ve been able to capture something authentic about this marvellous city. It really is a most extraordinary place.
Much love and light to you too. I hope we can meet in person in Africa one day.
Alison
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Quintessential Beneras. Now, 2021, too many changes have taken place. Last I visited was in 2010 to purchase Benares silk saris.
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Thank you so much Indra 🙏 – lovely to hear I’ve captured quintessential Benaras. It was so special to be there and I was just completely swept up in all the sights and the extraordinary energy of the place. I’d love to go back.
I’ve heard they’ve torn down some of the old city 😢
Alison
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Yes … it must be cleaner now. My father would drive down every weekend from Allahabad , our hometown, to spend time at the Ghats and with his sister . It was a different Benares then ( 1960s) .
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Yes, I’m sure it would have been, and different now even from when we were there 9 years ago.
A.
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I think I’ve said this before, but I LOOOOVVVE your images from India. Absolutely stunning! Hope you and Don have a cozy and wonderful Christmas with your family in Montreal.
❤ Susan
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Thank you so much Susan 🙏 India is a photographer’s dream!
Wishing you and John and family a wonderful Christmas and holiday season too.
Alison
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I felt as though I were walking those tight alleys and crossing the Ghats with you. Wonderful photos. Maggie
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Thank you so much Maggie. 🙏
Alison
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I love those flower garlands hanging from the boats. Happy holidays and enjoy Montreal! Here’s to hoping things get better in 2022
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Thank you so much 🙏 I love the flower garlands in India – they use them for any festive occasion – weddings, temple festivals, etc. Any excuse really.
Happy holidays to you too.
Alison
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I enjoyed the quotes you’ve chosen to include with your fantastic photos. I think part of why you capture the “real” about places and people is because you are right there in them and with them, you become part of it rather than just viewing them through a lens.
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Your opening quote is from one of my favorite songs, but you didn’t acknowledge Joni Mitchell as you have done with all the other quotes?
And…. perhaps a missed opportunity? … the next line is “Oh, I wish I had a river…” Adding that next line could be a super lead-in for the content of your post!
Merry Christmas to you both! Kate
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Thank you so much Kate.🙏 That is the best compliment. I’m endlessly fascinated in India, and people are so welcoming, and love having their photo taken so it’s easy to be drawn in.
I did acknowledge Joni – there’s an asterisk at the beginning of the quote with it’s pair giving credit at the end of the post. I guess I didn’t include the river line from the song because I always think of it as a frozen river.
Merry Christmas to you guys too!
Alison
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Varanasi is one of those places where you have to take photos of the people as much as you do the ghats, temples, and the river itself — I think this is the case with any holy cities out there. Merry Christmas to you and Don!
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Varanasi is extraordinary, and yes, you’re right, the people are definitely as fascinating as the ghats, temples, and the river.
Thanks Bama. Merry everything!
Alison
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Just what I needed to transport me away on this yucky, cold Vancouver night. Love the colours, vibrance, rawness, and the quotes are marvellous—everything from Mark Twain to Brad Pitt.
Merry Christmas and happy holidays to you and Don.
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Thanks so much Caroline 🙏 happy to have brought a little colour into grey wintery Vancouver. India’s such a dream to photograph, and especially Varanasi.
Merry Everything to you and Mike.
Alison
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Your photos took me back to the time when I visited Kashi a few years ago, It’s truly a mystical place and visiting just once is not enough.
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I’m glad my photos could take you on a little virtual journey back to Kashi. I agree, once is not enough. I’d love to go back.
Alison
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What a superb series of images. Makes me feel as though I’m right there sharing your pathway.
Thanks for re-posting these images and including some more you haven’t shared before.
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Thank you so much Vicki 🙏 My pleasure. It’s always encouraging to hear someone say they felt like they were there. It’s what I try to capture.
Alison
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Happy holidays to you and Don! Here’s to a real, live sighting of each other in 2022 … we have Vancouver on the schedule for next fall!
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Thanks Lexie! And yes – here’s to a real life get together! I’m already looking forward to it👏💕
Alison
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Wonderful people pictures. I could imagine wandering through the crowds and seeing those sights. Have a happy holiday, both of you!
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Thanks so much Ruth. Varanasi is really quite amazing, unlike anywhere else I’ve been, even in India. Happy to have given you a little virtual taste.
Alison
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I think you have captured the essence of life in Varanasi, Alison 🙂 People from every walk of life are included in the photos. The last one is spectacular. Btw, I wish you and Don a happy and healthy holiday!
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Thank you so much Len. It is one of the most fascinating places I’ve been to, and I’d love to return one day. The last photo is from the nightly Ganga Aarti ritual which we’ve been to a total of 7 times in three different cities. There’s more about it here: https://alisonanddon.com/2020/04/24/a-hindu-hallelujah-indias-ganga-aarti/
Alison
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What a beautiful photo essay Alison! Reminds me I owe Varanasi another chance. In better weather:) Happy holidays to you and Don!
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Thanks so much Madhu 🙏 Oh I do hope you get to go back in good weather. We found it to be so amazing.
Alison
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Alison, although I know this post is about Varanasi, first let me say thanks for the beautiful nod to Joni Mitchell. I just saw her on the Kennedy Center Honors and what a talent! I’m a long-time fan, and her artwork on River is stunning.
Varanasi is so strong in my memory – we first visited when we were living in London – and the scenes are indelibly etched in my mind. Your great photo essay really captures the essence of both the people and the city. Thank you for this wonderful memory.
Wishing you and Don all the very best in the New Year. Can’t wait to see what 2022 has in store. 🙂 ~Terri
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Thank you so much Terri. I’m glad you enjoyed this virtual revisit to Varanasi. It’s such an extraordinary place isn’t it.
I too love Joni Mitchell – she deserves all the honours she gets.
All the very best to you and James for the new year. Here’s to a magical 2022!
Alison
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Gorgeous as always Alison! I hope you had a lovely time in Montreal. Happy New Year! Wishing you the best in 2022!
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Thanks so much Nicole 🙏. Varanasi’s so amazing I just had to do another post on it.
Montreal was lovely – so heart warming to be with family.
All the best to you and your family for 2022! 🥂🥳🍷
Alison
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Leave it to you to celebrate Varanasi on Christmas! 😉 It’s great! You captured such color and spirit here…there are many great images but a few that made me pause longer were the sweet-looking woman selling (peppers? flowers?), the saffron-clothed kids walking down an alley and the river view beneath that picture, and the portrait of the woman it seems you connected with, under the Brad Pitt quote. I wish you continued happy holidays in Montreal and safe travels back home.
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Thanks so much Lynn. I will do a Christmas post, but I just can’t bring myself to add to the relentless chorus at the time 😂 and Varanasi’s so extraordinary it was pretty easy to listen to the inspiration to do another post about it.
The women is selling flowers, she’s lovely. And the portrait is definitely one of my favourites of all my Varanasi shots – she’s so present!
My other fave is the egg man, though I do also like the river scene quite a lot, and I’m very partial to the opening shot.
All the best to you and your family for 2022. May it be (more) magical for us all!
Alison
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hoping your days have been fun and filled with joy and love just as you celebrate here in your post…sending you and Don all good things for new adventures…exciting 🤍🕊many hugs hedy🤗❄️❄️❄️
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Thanks so much Hedy. We’ve had some wonderful holiday celebrations, both in Van and in Montreal.
Wishing for some good adventures for you too. May 2022 be fabulous!
Hugs back
Alison 🤗
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Love these photos!!! So much color, texture, and life. Can’t wait to go there one day!
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Thanks so much Mo. 🙏 It’s a truly amazing place. Hope you get there one day!
Alison
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Just wanted to say hello and a healthy, joyous year to you two but couldn’t find your e-mail. And so found this last post of your probably your last time in Kashi.
It was also pleasantly surprising to learn that you came for mooji in Rishikesh. Whenever you are here, do write dear Ali.
Love and Regards.
Nara
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Hello to you Nara! So lovely to find this post from you. Wishing you also a healthy and joyous year.
We have not been in Kashi since 2012, but I would love to go back one day – it is one of the most extraordinary places I’ve ever been to.
We went to Rishikesh 2 years in a row for Mooji! So amazing. If he returns we will probably go for a third time.
I will get back to posting on the blog soon, and to reading yours! I’m getting behind – having way too much fun visiting with my sisters and extended family back in Australia.
Love and regards
Ali
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