When I travelled in my twenties and early thirties I never wanted to go to India. I’d heard of the poverty, and of the “Black Hole of Calcutta” and it frightened me. It took about another thirty years before I was finally ready. Now I wonder what took me so long.
I miss India. I miss the madness of it, and the heart of it, and the way the people, in the midst of hardships we westerners can scarcely fathom, are still so welcoming and open hearted. The power of thousands of years of spirituality informs everything in the most grandiose and the most subtle of ways, and is impossible to ignore. I miss the way their spirituality is lived with such enthusiasm and optimism. I miss the sheer force of Life in India. Life is lived out loud; the good, the bad, the ugly, the sacred, the profane, all stewed together to create a culture unlike anywhere else.
Rishikesh by the Ganges, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas, in the state of Uttarakhand, is a holy city. Hindus have long been making pilgrimages here where it is said saints and sages have meditated for millennia. Indians and visitors alike gather here hoping to find freedom from suffering. It is full of swamis and gurus, yogis and ascetics and sadhus, and ordinary people.
Things are different with the pandemic of course, but the state of Uttarakhand is now open to people with a negative Covid-19 test result, and the yoga centres have reopened. Life there is slowly starting up again. And India being India I have no doubt that the people will find a way through.
Here then is my photo essay of the people of India as seen during our stay in Rishikesh. Some are residents, some are pilgrims, some are mystics. The photos were taken during our visits in 2019 and 2020.
There are six main unifying forces in India – chai, garbage, free-range cattle, marauding monkeys, dust, and snarling howling traffic that is a both mystical and terrifying insanity.
In India you will be confronted with your humanity: in the face of an old man in a filthy dhoti using a long stick for balance as he shuffles along the street; in the faces and strong but tired bodies of the women carrying bricks on their heads at construction sites; in the face of the severely deformed beggar-woman whose smile lights up the sky as she recognises you from previous days and knows you see her humanity; in the inscrutable faces of the sadhus who have given up everything in the hope of gaining it all; in the faces of the tribes of young men who swagger down the road to loud bhangra music; in the unrestrained joy of the dancing guests of a wedding celebration filling the street; in the unrestrained colours of the women’s saris; and in the shining face of the woman who speaks little English but nevertheless wants to know you and wants you to say hello to her mama on WhatsApp.
India will reflect back to you both the best and worst of humanity in hundreds of strands, millions of hopes and dreams and disappointments, billions of heartaches and joys that can never be separated, that coalesce into a ball that can never be unravelled. India will rip you open and tear you into a million pieces, and then grab your heart and reform it into a golden radiant flower. There is nowhere else on earth quite like it.
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2020.
Beautiful, Alison. Your photos. Your writing. Quite moving.
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Thanks so much Kate. It’s such an extraordinary country.
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Have you ever visited Kerala “Southern India”?
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No not Kerala though we’ve heard a lot of very good things about it. I’d like to go one day. The furthest south we’ve been is Tamil Nadu. A few years back we lived in Tiruvannamalai for 3 months.
Alison
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Oh that’s great. My native place is Kerala.
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I miss India too. Thanks for taking me there for a fleeting moment.
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My pleasure. One day we’ll get back . . . .
Alison
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It’s a great collection of photos that shows how much you care about people, very impressive.
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Thank you so much. Capturing the people of the places I visit is my favourite kind of photography.
Alison
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I had already noticed and appreciated it. I am rather attracted by architecture and landscapes. Except when I had the chance to travel in India, more than anywhere else I have photographed people, their lifestyle is so different from ours that it inevitably attracts attention and interest.
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I felt as is I were there. Beautifully done Alison.
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Thanks so much Cindy. Best compliment!
Alison xo
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Wow … vibrant India is accentuated by your photographs & words.
Can I share the write up on my blog?
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Thank you so much! Yes of course you can share it. I’d be honoured!
Alison
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Thank you
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Moving words. Beautiful photos. Especially love your opening shot.
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Thanks so much Tracey. The opening shot is a favourite of mine too.
Alison
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Truly amazing: the people/humanity, your photography and writing! Makes me smile and be right there. Thanks!
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Thank you so much Astrid. India’s such a culture shock, and then you get used to it and see the incredible richness of it, of the culture and the people. Glad my post made you smile.
Alison xo
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Superb images and such extraordinary contrast too. Thanks for sharing.
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Thank you so much Vicki. My pleasure. I’m glad you liked it.
Alison
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That’s a great perspective on India! Thanks for sharing!
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Thank you so much. My pleasure. It really is an amazing country.
Alison
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We miss India too. There is no place on earth quite like it and we often say that once you spend time there, then you are “spoiled” because nothing every lives up to the intensity of India. You describe it perfectly and I felt transported back through your photos and words.
Particularly love the close up portraits but also a favorite is the cow with the man leaning on him and the elderly man reading…
Peta
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Thanks so much Peta. As you say there’s no place on earth quite like it. I too love the shot of the man leaning on the cow – quintessential India!
Alison
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I love this post Alison! Your love for India, its people and its intensity comes through so beautifully. I really hope I get to experience India. As you know, we were all set to go to this November!
Your photos are wonderful.I’m envious of your talent in taking such good people photos. I particularly like the young boy and man embracing (such a tender moment) and the three photos of elderly men reading newspapers/books. I think I’ve asked you this before…sorry, but it’s something I struggle with in photography. In the photos where people are looking directly at the camera, did you ask them if you could take their photos?
Enjoy this nice weather while it lasts!
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Thank you so much Caroline. India is just extraordinary, but you know already that I feel that way about it :).
The man and his son embracing is a favourite of mine – if I remember correctly they were sheltering from rain in that moment.
There are many such elderly men in the holy towns of India. I’ve heard that there is something of a tradition for men who have good pensions following a spiritual path in their retirement.
I confess I almost never ask permission when doing street photography. In all my years of travel it’s been a (minor) problem only 3 times when I’ve been asked to delete the photo. Street/people photography in India is particularly easy because people generally love to have their photo taken, and will often ask you to take their photo.
I hope you get there one day!
Loving the weather 🙂
Alison
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Gorgeous photos, Alison. My faves are the first one with the 2 girls and the one with the man hugging the boy. Everyone is dressed warmly. Is Rishikesh at higher altitude than the rest of India?
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Thanks so much Julie. Your faves are mine too I confess, though I would also add the very close-up of the sadhu with the orange beads.
It was winter in Rishikesh when we were there (Feb/Mar) so the weather can be variable from chilly and raining to bright hot sunny days (or both in one day). The locals though find it really cold since summer is over 100 almost every day. It’s about 1200 ft above sea level and in the Himalayan foothills so for sure it’s colder than other places we’ve been to in India.
Alison
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I’m fascinated by places and buildings and rarely take pictures of anyone (including myself!) You have such a gift for capturing people.
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Thanks so much Felicity. I photograph all the places and buildings too, but I think people and wildlife are my favourites. And India is *great* for photographing people because they don’t mind it.
Alison
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One of the things I love about India (apart from the numerous beautiful ancient temples) is the fact that most women and some men still wear traditional clothes in their everyday life, a norm shared by many of its neighbors: Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka and Myanmar. Sometimes I wish that in Indonesia people wear our traditional outfit more often, although to be honest western clothes are much more practical. I noticed from one of the comments that you haven’t been to Kerala. I think you should. In some ways, things are quite different there than in the rest of the country (at least those I’ve been).
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I too love that so many people in India wear traditional clothing. It is one of the things that makes visiting other cultures special for me. I have noticed in several countries (northern Vietnam, most South American countries) that almost all the women still wear traditional dress but very few of the men do. Probably because it’s more practical, and also because women are more naturally interested in clothing.
I would love to go to Kerala, and hope I get there some day. I’ve heard nothing but good things about it, and that it is quite unique.
Alison
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Thank you for flaunting your love for the people of India so beautifully, Alison 🙂 🙂 As someone else said- very moving!
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Thanks so much Jo, my pleasure. India’s so visually rich that I want to share everything! There are still temple festivals and weddings that I haven’t shared yet. Every day is a feast for the eyes.
Alison
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Am not frm dea but I love ❤️ it
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Thank you so much!
Alison
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Your words and your portraits are beautiful testimonies to your affection for these people. I lingered over many of them, really looking into their faces and studying their clothing and environment. It seems to be a very special place, and I hope to experience it in person someday!
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Thank you so much Lex. I really appreciate your lingering very much, and I hope you get there one day. It’s such an amazing place. Not always easy, but always fascinating.
Alison
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Lovely post!
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Thank you so much Saania. I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Alison
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Fabulous pictures. You have captured the real India. I love the person leaning on the cow. Perfect!
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Thanks so much Darlene. I was so glad I got the shot of the guy leaning on the cow! It really captures ordinary India.
Alison
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Stunning pictorial of a colorful and amazing country. I pinned it too because I really hope to go back.
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Thank you so much Laureen. We love India and have been several times. I hope you get back one day!
Alison
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As always beautifully written with fantastic photography catching the essence of the people of India. I love the expressions that you have caught and it is lovely that all the subjects were happy with you taking there photos so that we can enjoy them with you.
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Thank you so much Angie. As a photographer one of the many things I love about India is that people not only don’t mind having their photo taken, they quite frequently will ask for it. Or want a photo with you. And it’s such an amazing country with so much to capture.
Alison
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What a beautiful post! I love the tantalizing imagery and the way so many senses weave together in your description. I too have been hesitant to go to India but your post makes it sound like I should rethink my preconceived ideas.
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Thank you so much Heather. India really is the proverbial assault on the senses, but so worth it. It is not always easy, but it is always fascinating and the people are enormously friendly and inclusive. That woman really was on WhatsApp to her mom and held the phone out to me telling me to say hello to her mom. Things like that happen all the time. If you do ever get to go, and I hope you do, I’ll be happy to answer any questions you might have.
Alison
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Loved your photos! They capture the essence of the people.
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Thank you so much Alma. People in India generally welcome having their photo taken and are so open. They make it easy for me.
Alison
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Thank you for the beautiful words and photos to transport me to India, a place I have yet to visit. You have captured so many faces that tell a million stories.
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Thank you so much Alison. It is my great pleasure to share about India. I hope you get there one day! It’s so extraordinary.
Alison
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I saved this post so I could start my weekend with it. 🙂 Your photos make me ache to travel again, and your words hold all the truth of India. Something about life there feels more concentrated, more potent, more packed into every moment, more love and acceptance of one another. Your photos convey that, especially in the shots with direct eye contact — unafraid, welcoming, curious. I loved Mumbai and its chaos for all the reasons you’ve captured here and, like you, can’t wait to return to India someday. Thanks, Alison!
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Thanks so much Kelly. They make me ache to travel again too 😦
I love your description – about live being more potent there, that whole sentence. A good way to put it.
And I love that Indian people welcome being photographed. It makes me unafraid to take pictures, to try to capture what I see. They are so open.
I hope we both get back there! One day . . . . .
Alison
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I loved how you managed to give a dignity to everyone, well-off or completely poor. There’s a ‘solarity’ (in the sense of being radiant) in every photo and if there isn’t people are nonetheless serene. I hate poverty tourism, I hate the “must-shock-at-all-costs”.
My favourite photo is the one of the guy lounging on the cow. I’m sure he’s a rough sleeper, I’m sure he’s infinitely poor, but at least he can use a cow as headrest like a badass (and the cow seems not to mind that).
Most probably my favourite India photoshoot ever or, as they say over here, “evah!”
Fabrizio
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Thank you so much Fabrizio! I too hate poverty tourism and the need to dramatize and catastrophise it all. I have long let go of pitying poor people. It robs them of their dignity and me of being able to truly connect with them. And of course I’ve learned, as most long-term travellers do, that poverty does not equal unhappiness. People blow me away – that they have such resilience and joy in the face of hardships, and nowhere in my experience is this more clearly demonstrated than in India.
I too love the guy leaning on the cow – so wonderfully Indian! and done with such accustomed nonchalance.
Thank you for your kind words. It was a fun and moving post to put together.
Alison
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Excellent, Alison. So many striking faces, so much color of very kind. I expect you’ll return when the time is right and come back with even more moving images.
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Thanks so much Lynn. India’s such a visual high. Everywhere you look there’s colour, and something happening. I’m pretty sure we’ll be back one day.
Alison
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What a gorgeous tribute to a special place in a very special part of the world. I love all these candid captures – the warmth and honesty (a perfect match for your writing) in the faces – and those colors! The vivid oranges, reds, and pinks almost seem to leap right off the screen. Alison, I’m sure I’ve said this before, but your street photography is superb.
And your heartfelt description of India as a country where life is lived out loud reminded me of the unforgettable month Bama and I spent there back in 2015. For us, India felt much the same: it was at turns uplifting, maddening and frustrating, awe-inspiring, calming, raw and in-your-face, and deeply spiritual. I look forward to going back someday and exploring a few of the northern states like Rajasthan and Uttarakhand.
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Thanks so much James. I so appreciate your support. Street photography in India is a joy really because generally people don’t mind, and often encourage, having their photo taken. And oh the colours! I’m a bit of a magpie when it comes to colour and there’s plenty of it there. It’s as if they make up for the garbage and rubble and the challenges of their lives by displaying as much colour as possible. In the west these days people dress predominantly in navy, grey and black. In India there is no fear of colour, the brighter the better!
It’s such a powerful place to visit because everything about the human condition is on display. And there is so much kindness. I hope you get back some day. Me too!
Alison
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Such powerful prose and images that truly reflect India. You are right Alison, there is no place on earth like it, and it does get into your heart and never lets go. Absolutely stunning experiencing it through your words and eyes.
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Thank you so much Shelley. India is for sure one of the most amazing, and challenging, and uplifting countries I’ve been to. So much suffering and so much love all rolled into one. I’m glad you enjoyed my post.
Alison
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You done a good job thanks a lot
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Thank you so much. My pleasure.
Alison
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You have come up with such a wonderful piece of writing about India…. No words beautiful than written by you could have explained about India so beautifully..
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Thank you so much Shreya. I’m glad it resonated for you. India is such an amazing country!
Alison
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you have captured and written the most realistic view of India, we are really proud and glad to know people from westerners are loving our country.
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Thank you so much Vijaya. I really appreciate hearing that I’ve presented a realistic view of India as it’s only the impressions of a visitor. We love your country very much ❤
Alison
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Such wonderful images. You have a serious talent for portrait photography and for capturing people in their essence when they are at their least self-award. That’s something I struggle with in my “people” pictures and I’m in awe of those that can pull it off. Thank you for this richly presented journey to Rishikesh 🙂
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Thank you so much Susan. I guess I just take pics of what I see that appeals to me. Most people most of the time don’t know or don’t care, but I am kinda secretive about it. In nearly 10 years of travelling I’ve only had a (minor) problem twice. It’s actually okay to photograph people in the public domain, otherwise there’d be no thing as street photography. It’s especially easy in India because in general Indians either don’t mind or actively encourage having their photo taken. Sometimes they’ll actually ask you to take their picture. I so loved photographing the people in Rishikesh – there’s such variety and richness there. I’m glad you enjoyed my post.
Alison
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Have a great day
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Thank you. You too.
Alison
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I’m from India and thanks for visiting my country🙏. India has got a lot more diversity than any other countries. Do visit my home state Karnataka, I’m sure you gonna love food, climate and cultural heritage of my state🙂
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Thanks for commenting Vidya. I know India has huge diversity! I’d love to visit again; it’s one of my favourite countries! One day . . . .
Alison
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What beautiful photos – the colour, the faces, all of which tell a story, and your descriptive words. This is a true essay on India. Have you ever published a book ?-If not, start with this one! You are very talented and I love dropping into your site especially at these times when we, in Australia, cannot even leave the country. We can dream though! Thank you, Alison.
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Thank you so much Alison for your lovely words. Made my day!
I know what you mean about not being allowed to leave the country – well we can leave but getting back in could be problematic, and Don’s in the high risk group so we daren’t even think about it.
I’m glad you’re enjoying my posts. Arm chair travel just has to do these days.
Alison
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Another riveting read… each word hit a chord, so overwhelming to read what you feel about India. It is crazy, exasperating, challenging, beautiful, noisy, charming and the best of all a pandora’s box: you NEVER know what you might find at the next bend. The photos completely sum up a ‘normal’ day in mainstream India, but the words, the words transport you to the lanes and alleys and more to the hearts of the millions of Indians: imperfect but ever so humble. Thanks for writing this and making my day.
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Thank you so much Divsi. It means such a lot to me that my words struck a chord. India can indeed be exasperating, but it can also be magnificent and heart opening and inspiring and beautiful. I suppose it’s obvious how much I love your country. ❤
Alison
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Your gift for photography just shines in these images. The photos capture the humanity in your subjects. I’m way behind in keeping up with the folks I follow, but it was a delight to see these photos. Better late than never!
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Thank you so much. I’m glad you enjoyed them. I love photographing the people of the places we go to, especially India where I know they don’t mind, and quite often ask to be photographed. Plus the colours!
Lovely to hear from you again!
Alison
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