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#WPLongform, Chiapa de Corzo, Chuntas, Combate Naval de Chiapa de Corzo, Fiesta Grande de Enero, fireworks, Great Festival of January, Mexican festival, Mexican fiestas, Parachicos, photography, travel, Yucatan Peninsula
I’ve lost it completely! Alto! Alto! I scream. Alto! Alto! Todo la pueblo boom boom boom! My hands fly out from my head with each boom. Alto! I scream again. As I put my palms together at the side of my head to imitate sleep I scream Todo la noche NADA! Alto! Alto! In my limited Spanish what I think I’m saying, what I hope I’m saying is Stop! Stop! All the town gets boom boom boom! Stop! All night nothing! (as I mime sleep because I don’t know the word for it) Stop! Stop!
It’s nine in the morning of the fifth day at the festival. Our hotel is right next to the small family chapel for San Antonio. There was a live band in the street until midnight. At five in the morning it started up again. I’ve had no sleep. As we leave the hotel and walk by the band I see there’s nothing going on! There’s no party happening, there’s no one dancing, there are no people there except the band booming music out to the world from five in the morning. When I realize they are playing just for themselves, without caring how it affects the entire neighbourhood, I lose it. That’s when I walk right up to them and start screaming at them to stop.
They look at me bewildered at first: Who is this mad woman? Then I see one of them starting to get angry, but I’m already walking away. I don’t know if they stop or not. We walk down to the river to get some peace and quiet. I laugh and laugh at myself for my hilarious outburst.
We’re in the Mexican Magic Town of Chiapa de Corzo at the Great January Festival and the noise is pretty much relentless. At other festivals our hotel has been a refuge, but this time we’re right in the thick of it with the chapel to San Antonio right next door.
The festival, which includes a huge fair in the town square, celebrates Our Lord of Esquipulas, San Antonio, and San Sebastian, the patron saints of Chiapa de Corzo. It also celebrates and honours a woman of Spanish descent and her servants who helped the town during some rough years in the 1700’s. We’ve seen the Parachicos and Chiapanecas who dress as if Spanish, but we’ve not seen any Chuntas. Chuntas are men who parade through the streets dressed as female Spanish servants. They wear long skirts and embroidered blouses, and make-up, and baskets on their heads, but they don’t try to completely hide their masculinity. An English speaking local told us that they would be at the celebrations at night at the San Sebastian chapel but there were none there.
19th January. On the fourth day: If you follow the street that goes down to the river past the colonnades on the south side of the town square,
past the stairs leading up to the church,
past the women with their embroidery selling exquisite hand woven fabrics and hand embroidered blouses,
past dozens of temporary street stalls selling beautiful hand-crafted artifacts, you’ll come to iCafe. At iCafe we meet George, a fellow Canadian who has been spending time in Chiapa de Corzo for many years. He’s practically a local. He speaks Spanish. He knows people! George understands our predicament in trying to get information about what is on where and when. He takes us to meet a friend who owns a nearby shop. His friend tells us there will be Chuntas tonight at the party in the town square.
We walk through the festooned streets of the town
to the festival office but they don’t want to help us. They barely look up from their computers when George politely asks them about the festival program. So we go to see the mask-maker instead.
Antonio López Hernandez is widely recognised for carving high quality Parachico masks and in 1998 he won the National Prize for Popular Arts and Traditions. We find his house very near our hotel and peer through the open door. He is not there but we are allowed to take pictures of his studio. All his life Antonio has carved Parachico masks and religious figures. Now he is a master of his craft.
The carnival in the town square is as busy and noisy as usual. There are dozens of speakers booming out music from various stores and street restaurants. Every ride, from the Ferris wheel to the dodgem cars to the carousel, has it’s own clatter and musical accompaniment. Hawkers are shouting, crowds of people are chatting, and children yelling and squealing. It’s always acoustic mayhem, but no matter the noise everyday as we pass through one or another part of the huge fair we hear the same insistent voice over and over. Eventually we realize it is two voices in two different parts of the fair. Both are blanket hawkers and both have the same unique and puzzling way of calling out their wares. Each stands with a pile of blankets and pillows on his head, and into a microphone drones a consistent rhythm of words. It is completely flat. There is no change of pace or intonation or volume. No pause to take a breath. As they beat out their relentless staccato rhythm I imagine they’re saying something like: three blankets and one pillow only one hundred pesos five blankets for two hundred pesos get your best blankets here we have hundreds of colours and styles our pillows are the best in Mexico three blankets and one pillow only one hundred pesos and on and on. And they do it for hours on end. For hours! We never see either of them take a break. We do hear their voices gradually get more and more hoarse as the days go by.
We go to the town square at night because George’s friend has told us that the Chuntas will be there at eight. We see some men dressed as women, but they not Chuntas. They are cross-dressers out on the town on a night when such a thing is acceptable.
We sit on the curb in the middle of a great party.
I see a couple of Chuntas walking quickly by. I chase after them through the crowds for a couple of blocks. I finally catch them. They tell me there are groups of Chuntas on the road going down to the river, which is a couple of blocks further in the opposite direction. I go down there but the street is dark and empty. It is so difficult to get information. And we speak and understand a reasonable amount of Spanish. I rejoin Don sitting on the curb in the town square. On one side of us is a friendly man and we chat with him for a while. On the other side of us are the drunken lads.
It’s fun for a while but then it all gets to be a bit too loud and a bit too drunken so we head back to our hotel. There is loud live music from the chapel next door until midnight. I think my head will explode. I surrender as best I can.
20 Jan: On the fifth day: After I finish screaming at the band in the street outside the chapel next door to our hotel we go down to iCafe and visit with George for a while, then return to the hotel. In the street next to the hotel, in front of the chapel they are setting up a stage, and long tables. There are mikes and huge speakers on the stage. Clearly there will be a party here in the street. It starts at about two. We could join in if we wanted to but we are too sleep-deprived. That orange coloured wall on the right is our hotel.
Like refugees with nowhere to be we wander down to the soothing flow of the river and hang out there for a while.
On returning to our hotel we watch movies on our laptops to drown out the noise. The whole experience is a lesson in presence and acceptance. We are so grateful when the music ends at ten. We both fall into a dead sleep.
21 Jan: On the sixth day: We don’t even realize we’ll be in a boat on the river until they sell us the tickets. We just want see the fireworks and we see these big banners advertising ticket sales. Later we realize we could have stood on the shore for free. But being in a boat on the river? Best decision ever! There are thousands come to watch the fireworks: probably ten thousand lining the shore and another four thousand in boats.
Every January 21st as part of the Fiesta Grande de Enero there is a one-hour show of fireworks remembering some long ago naval battles. It is truly spectacular!
We get there very early and sit in the boat for a long time.
There must be about one hundred boats all in a row, and slowly they fill up. Suddenly, finally, it is time to leave and together all the boats pull away and start gliding up river.
It is high in the sky
and it is on the far shore,
and we are in a perfect position to see it all. On and on it goes, and just when we think it’s going to end more comes. Exploding colour, sparkling chimeras shining then fading only to be replaced by a red whimsy shooting across the sky or giant golden-white rays shooting up from the earth. Now a giant red spinning flower. Now a burst of red and white spirals. Now a brilliant chrysanthemum. Now a white luminous waterfall on the shore. It’s one of the best fireworks displays I’ve ever seen. It makes up for all the sleepless nights.
Next post: Chuntas! There’s a parade on our seventh day in town. On the sixth day some Chiapanecas in the hotel garden tell us that the parade begins the next day in the town square at two. Yeah right! But we do eventually get to see Chuntas. And go on a river cruise through Canyon del Sumidero.
A detailed description of the festival in case you want to know more about it.
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2017.
Oh my oh my oh my! Yes, there are times when we want it to get quiet.. and it just doesn’t happen… I loved the part where you said “It’s one of the best fireworks displays I’ve ever seen. It makes up for all the sleepless nights.”
The photos of the fireworks are amazing!
This past week there was ultra loud music that played from a few vehicles, campaigning for one of the Presidential candidates… It was so loud, well probably as loud as your own neighbor’s music, and after an hour or more I thought, “If I could vote, I would vote against that candidate strictly based on that disrespectful noise!”
Sometimes it’s hard to merge with the culture!
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Thanks Lisa. Yes, sometimes it’s hard to merge with the culture! I guess we’ve been lucky. India, for instance, also loves its loud speakers with temples vying with each other – so loud it’s distorted so you can’t understand it any way. But we’ve always been lucky enough to have accommodation that was near enough to walk to the action but far enough away from the noise. This is the first time we were in the thick of it. And had no way to know ahead of time that we would be. But we are glad we went for the parades and the fabulous outfits and the fireworks and the river cruise. It was a really amazing eight days – one more post to come.
I also would not have voted for that candidate!
Alison
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The colors are so vibrant. They and your words made me feel all tense, just as you felt. Down by the river I swear I could see the ripples moving, lessening of tension ahh!
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Oh the river was such a soothing relief even if we were sleep deprived. We went for quite a long walk along by the river, and just sat for a while and watched the water – so peaceful and much needed. But it was still a fabulous festival – really colourful and a bit wild.
Alison
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Alison,
Your photos of the fireworks are outstanding!
Ka
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Thanks so much Ka. It was a pretty amazing display.
Alison
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Awesome pictures of an amazing place & festival! Thanks so much for sharing, guys!
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Thanks so much Carston. It’s a pleasure to share such a spectacular event.
Alison
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Ha, ha Alison, this brought back fond, and sometimes frustrating memories of the six years we spent living in Nicaragua, Central America. Noise ~ the louder, the better!
We were often awoken from deep slumber at 4.00 a.m. to the sound of marching bands outside our front door. We would straggle there at first, half awake in our jammies and open the door to a very awake, very formally dressed neighborhood following the band. Eventually we learnt to almost sleep through these middle of the night processions and it no longer surprised us.
And then the bombas! The loud banging of firecrackers all night long during celebrations and holidays. Scared the shit out of our dogs!! Made them miserable!
Love your fireworks experience from the boat, and the dramatic photos. But tge pics of the mask making are my favorites!!
Thanks for sharing.
Peta
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Thanks Peta. Oh I can imagine things are much the same in Nicaragua! The bombas and the loud speakers are everywhere we’ve spent any time in Mexico. But marching bands at 4am! We heard them every day in San Miguel de Allende, but not at 4am! Though there is one parade during Santa Semana that happens around that time accompanied with much bomba action! Of course in third world countries you never get away from the barking dogs and the roosters crowing at any hour of the day and night.
I did love getting to see the mask maker’s workshop. I wish I could have met him and had a closer look, but it was not to be.
Alison
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Excellent post.
And the shots of the fireworks are great.
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Thanks so much rabirius. I had no idea how the shots of the fireworks would be. Of course I had to have a pretty high ISO, and the lowest F stop to even get enough shutter speed, so I was quite pleased.
Alison
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Yes. They are really great.
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Your opening paragraph is wonderful and I feel as though I’m right there vibrating with the pulse of the music, the laughter, the shattering booms of the fireworks as it goes on and on. The crowds of people and piles of everything from balloons to trashy junk and stacks of colorful, embroidered treasures are also an assault of the senses. And your photos towards the end with the firework colors against the night sky and thick clouds of smoke hanging low are so real I can almost smell the heavy smoke. At times, I miss Mexico and Central America with the joyous festivals,parades and celebrations, buses belching thick, hanging curtains of black smoke and roosters crowing to fill any quiet moments, A sheer,stimulus overload and you’ve captured it beautifully, Allison! Anita
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Thanks Anita, what wonderful compliments. I’m glad you could really feel the action. It was all pretty amazing, even being sleep deprived – so much to see and do it certainly felt like sensory overload at times, but really worth it. I love your description of Mexico and Central America – so exactly capturing it.
Alison
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What a fiesta. I’m exhausted by all the referred mayhem that you conjure here. And those fireworks – simply stunning!
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Sorry to leave you exhausted 🙂
It was all pretty amazing even if we didn’t get enough sleep, but mayhem is definitely the right word.
Best fireworks show ever!
Alison
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Fantastic photos. I feel for you. Lack of sleep does funny things. Once we had a room above an Indian wedding party. It was so loud the window frames shook and the room vibrated. But it only lasted one night. Don’t think I could cope with five!
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Thanks Tracey. I’ve seen an Indian wedding, and got to attend a little of it so I know what you mean. The decibel level is ear-shattering. I’m not surprised the room was vibrating. We managed to cope somehow and still have a good time. We didn’t expect to be right in the middle of the party that’s for sure, but eventually we slept and then the world was all alright again 🙂
Alison
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I chuckled at the way you described what the blanket hawkers might have said, for hours. Speaking of the noise and the seemingly indifferent neighbors, it also happens here in Indonesia during festival seasons. Before he moved to Indonesia, I warned James about the fact that at certain times of a year there will be nights when teenagers light up firecrackers all night long, or blaring music. But I can tell those fireworks you saw really made up for your sleep deprivation.
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The way those blanket hawkers called out their wares was one of the weirdest things I’ve ever seen. They droned on and on in a completely toneless voice. And I sure couldn’t figure out why they do it that way.
Although we love our peace and quiet, we also love the festivals. I bet there are some fabulous festivals in Indonesia! One day we’ll get there!
The fireworks were fabulous! And definitely made up for a night or two of no sleep.
Alison
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Its great that you were able to attend the festival. Thanks for sharing the fireworks.
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You’re welcome, and yes it was great to be able to attend even if we did have a couple of sleepless nights.
When I clicked on your Living Soils link a box opened telling me my computer was infected with malware. It seems that it isn’t, but perhaps you want to look into that.
Alison
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Wow, ceaseless noise, fireworks, people dressed in strange clothes, partying 24/7— you must be at Burning Man. 🙂 I carry serious sound makers with me when I head off into the desert. –Curt
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Chuckle! Oh yes, I can imagine Burning Man would be like that! Why do you take sound makers when you head off into the dessert? To drown out all the other noise?
Alison
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Well, only when I head for Burning Man, which is about as desert as you can get. 🙂
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But I hope you enjoyed diving head first into the dessert lol. With or without sound makers.
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Whoops! 🙂 Better go back and check that out.
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desert dessert who cares 🙂
We know what we mean.
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🙂
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A great post Alison, we’ve enjoyed the festivities through this series. Can’t say that we would have been so charitable as you after being so sleep deprived. Absolutely wonderful pictures as always. Hope that Vancouver is being kind to you both.
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Thanks so much. We always love the local festivals, even if we’re a bit sleep deprived, though I must admit I enjoy them more than Don. I’m always totally captivated by the colour and the energy and the dancing.
We’re enjoying being back in Vancouver for a while. It’s not that warm yet but spring is on the way!
Alison
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festivo 🙂
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Mucho festivo! 🙂
Alison
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I can relate to those many nights of being sleep deprived in Mexico. What amazing fireworks! And once again, your photography is stunning!
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Thanks LuAnn. The fireworks were really spectacular, the sleepless nights not so much 🙂
But we survived, and enjoyed the festival – so much colour and energy, and everyone was having such a good time.
Alison
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I often asked Terry how the locals survive all the noise. Do they have sleepless nights as well?
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Probably! Or maybe they’re just used to it and their brains shut it out.
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Oh, you had me laughing! I love your honesty in relating how you lost it with the band, chased down the Chuntas, and got irritated again with all that never-ending festival noise. Sometimes I hit my limit like that and the “victim” is generally my poor husband! Seems like you still enjoyed your time there, though. Amazing people pictures, as always, especially those cross-dressers!
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Thanks Lexie. This festival, for all it’s exuberance and colour and joyous energy, was at times extremely frustrating, and the lack of sleep didn’t help, but overall yes we did enjoy ourselves.
Alison
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Wow what a festival Alison!!!! It is tough when you are traveling and want to get to bed but can’t due to crazy dog barking, loud music and what ever else is going on. But the festival and your pics look amazing as always.
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Thanks Nicole. It was an amazing festival. Even if we did have a couple of sleepless nights it was still worth it.
Alison
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Wow those fireworks are such wonderful captures Alison….can feel the vibration of the celebratory event…another great post 😀!!!! 😀
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Thanks Hedy. The whole festival was great, except for the sleepless nights, and the fireworks were definitely a highlight – no pun intended 🙂
Alison
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I absolutely love fireworks. There’s something so magical about the noise, the cries of appreciation from the crowd, the light arcing through a night sky. I’ve never watched a fireworks show from a boat, though!
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It was a fabulous fireworks display. Truly magical. I’ve never watched from a boat before though you can do it in Vancouver. Every summer there is an internal fireworks competition and the fireworks are sent up from a barge in the harbour. Anyone with any kind of boat goes out on the water to watch from there.
Alison
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When is this most fabulous firework competition in Vancouver? I’m planning to be around the Pacific NW this summer, and this sounds like exactly the kind of thing I’d love to see!
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July – don’t know specific dates. Google International fireworks competition Vancouver and I’m sure you’ll get the answer. Plus we could meet finally!
Alison
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Google is so awesome. http://hondacelebrationoflight.com/. July 29, August 2, August 5. Exactly when I hoped to take a trip up to Vancouver and/or Seattle! Adding them to my calendar now.
I’ll be planning that trip in May, probably. Just putting the final details on my trip to the East Coast in June. 🙂
If I wanted to connect with you about coming up to Vancouver, is there a better way to do it than this blog? Email, perhaps? You can reach me at felicity@felicityfields.com.
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I’ll email you!
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Oh, I know how this feels to be literally begging for the festivals to end! We have this type of sudden intrusion on our quite and peaceful fishing village life,too. The latins do love to make a lot of jolly noise! 😀 As always, your photos are just spectacular and the fireworks on the rivers…like something we only see in movies!
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Thanks so much Stephanie. The fireworks were fabulous! And yes, Latin festivals are amazing but soooo noisy. Latin towns are noisy anyway, but during festivals it gets truly nuts!
Alison
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Incredible photos! I’m drawn to the cross-dresser one…it looks like a painting!
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Thanks Caroline. I always have a lot of fun photographing festivals. There’s always so much I want to capture and the cross dressers were happy to pose for me. I love their sass!
Alison
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I am laughing at (or maybe with) you yelling at the band. My wife did something similar at a hotel in China. We were on the 3rd floor and the basement level disco was so loud we couldn’t sleep!
All that color, noise and fiesta – that is one reason I love Mexico! It is such a crazy country!
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I sympathise with your wife! I can’t imagine staying above a disco! That would be my idea of the ninth level of hell. And yeah, Viva Mexico for its festivals!
Alison
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When I look at your photos I can imagine what a bright spectacle it is. Of course it’s very hard to spend a few days without rest, but I think it’s worth it. Photos are adorable!
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Thanks so much Jose. It was an amazing spectacle that’s for sure. And yes it was worth it!
Alison
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Hi, so enjoy reading your blog. My new email address is, dozheinrich@gmail.com. Please update your record, many thanks.
________________________________
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Thanks so much Donnette. Just making this comment updates your email address.
Alison
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What an array of beautiful colors! A visual treat, to be sure.
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Oh Mary it was eye candy for a photographer, especially the Parachicos and Chiapanecas. I noticed all through all the Latin countries they just love colour.
Alison
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Oh my! Reminds me of a night in Peru when the band outside our hotel played until 7:00 a.m. Silence was never so desired! I feel your pain. 🙂
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Ah yes, it was noisy! And we kind of expect that in Latin American countries. And India. But not so continuously. And not at 5 in the morning. Still, I’m glad we went. It was an amazing festival.
Alison
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Wow! I would love to attend this festival. It seems so colorful and fun. Is it an annual event?
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Yes it’s an annual event and definitely worth attending. It’s always held on the same dates 8-23 January. We attended 16-23 January and didn’t feel as if we missed out on anything. One week was enough.
Alison
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