n. the bush. In Australia the bush refers to any un-inhabited, or sparsely-inhabited region regardless of vegetation.
n. bushranger. Australian. Originally referred to escaped convicts who used the bush to hide in. By the 1820s it had evolved to refer to criminals who commit highway robbery and use the bush as their base. The equivalent of the British highwayman, or the American outlaw.
Ned Kelly was a bushranger.
Ned Kelly is Australia’s most famous folk hero; a hero who represents the strong streak of rebelliousness against authority that runs through the (white) Australian character; this is not surprising given that the original colonial inhabitants were convicts and their gaolers.
Ned Kelly is especially famous for his homemade armour.
There’s probably not a single Australian who has not heard of Ned Kelly.
He was the son of an Irish convict. Very briefly: in 1878 a young policeman came to arrest him for horse stealing. A fist fight broke out. As a result, wanted for wounding with intent to murder, Kelly fled into the bush with his brother Dan and a small gang. They spent the next 20 months on the run, ambushing policemen and robbing banks. Their final clash with the authorities was a ferocious shootout in which the outlaws wore homemade helmets and armour bolted together out of ploughshares. Kelly was captured and taken to Melbourne, where he was hanged in 1880.
Among the most famous paintings in Australia are Sidney Nolan’s 27 narrative paintings of Ned Kelly, painted in 1946-47. Nolan’s stark and simplistic rendering of Kelly in his homemade armour is an iconic Australian image.
I learned about these paintings in school of course, but seeing them in the National Gallery of Australia when we are there earlier this year I am struck by how powerful they are; powerful in the telling of Kelly’s story, and powerful in the depiction of the Australian landscape.
However, we don’t come to the gallery to see the Ned Kelly paintings, though they are the first to grab my attention when we arrive. We’ve come to see the new Cressida Campbell exhibition.
Here we are arriving at the entrance to the special exhibition that the gallery has curated, and that includes a whole wall devoted to a reprint of one of her paintings,

Having lived in Canada for the past 40 years I’d not heard of her; her renown has been a slow build to the point that now her bigger works sell for $50,000. It is often said that Campbell’s gift as an artist is that she sees beauty in everyday objects, and it is the sheer beauty of her prints and woodblocks that draws me in. It seems to me that in the modern art world one has to make dark or dramatic or political images to be taken seriously, but give me beauty anytime.
Yeah, we loved this exhibition so much we went twice!

Near the entrance there’s an enormous life-size candle, of a man looking at a cell phone while standing on a fridge. The candle is alight and the entire sculpture is slowly melting. It has burned down enough that the man has lost his head, which has fallen to the floor.
It’s the second burning of this man at the gallery, right down to nothing but a pile of dripping wax. It was then recast and the slow disintegration of the piece began again.
It is the work of Swiss artist Urs Fischer. Wax is the quintessential medium of his art, and the material both forms the work and creates a means for its repeated destruction, as it can be recast again and again. He created a wax sculpture of The Rape of the Sabine Women for the Venice Biennale of 2011, and there are photos online of the completed sculpture on a plinth, and photos of the pile of dripped wax that it was reduced to. This transformation is so evocative; the planned breakdown of the body a poignant symbol. How can you not be moved by a sculpture of a human being that will end in complete disintegration. We are powerless in the face of it.
In its essential message there is a similarity in the works of Cressida Campbell and Urs Fischer, though it is subtle. Her work celebrates life in all its mundane beauty, the aesthetic of everyday objects, honouring the transitory moments of ordinary life. Through her views of the harbour, or an arrangement of nasturtiums, or a vase of red gerberas, the artist celebrates the fleeting moments of life. Everything eventually passes away. In Campbell’s work we can forget that and simply enjoy the beauty. In Fischer’s work there is no denying it. Campbell’s work is all about the beauty. Fischer’s is about the slow burn.
Located in Canberra, the National Gallery of Australia was established in 1967 and now houses more than 166,000 works of art.
The specially designed building has 23,000 square metres of floor space,
a significant collection of large outdoor sculptures, fountains and gardens,
and a James Turrell skyspace located on the south side of the main building.
The American artist James Turrell has created over 82 skyspaces around the world. His medium is light, and his installations are viewing chambers that affect the way we perceive the sky. The National Gallery’s skyspace, Within Without, one of the most complex Turrell has created, is accessed by a long sloping walkway. The interior of this square-based pyramid has soft red ochre walls reminiscent of the colours of the Australian desert. A large basalt stupa dominates the centre and it is through the opening at the top of it that the light enters
and allows the sky to be reflected in a pool of turquoise water. The water highlights the sky in some places,
and us in others.
The entire construction is breathtaking, surprising, astonishing. And it’s a great place to play!



From the National Gallery website: The National Gallery is committed to ensuring First Nations art, artists and culture are at the heart of the national cultural agenda.The National Gallery is committed to building and maintaining meaningful relationships with First Nations peoples, artists, communities, organisations and cultures.
The National Gallery is custodian of the world’s largest collection of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art, comprising over 7500 works, which embraces, reflects and amplifies the diversity of First Nations art and culture.
It’s heart-opening for me to see how the Aboriginal people in Australia are becoming less and less marginalized, more and more celebrated; and to see how their art, in all its forms, is now taken seriously, whereas in the past it was dismissed as primitive, and therefore of little consequence except to anthropologists.
This piece, Sacred Grasses, is by Ada Bird Petyarr
The National Gallery acknowledges the Ngunnawal and Ngambri peoples, the Traditional Custodians of the Kamberri/Canberra region, and recognises their continuous connection to culture, community and Country. More and more they are taken seriously, and acknowledged as the original inhabitants of this land.
From art by one of the oldest peoples in the world, to something undeniably contemporary. Three screens in a row on a wall, each screen with an image of a woman’s face. We are intrigued and puzzled. What is this?

And then suddenly an off-stage gust of wind, hair flies in disarray, and we are mesmerized. We watch for a while. Hair settles, then flies up again, always in a different way, random, and at times amusing. There’s no knowing which way the hair will dance. Or when. Sadly I didn’t get the name of the artist. Is it even art? I would say so, though certainly it’s unconventional. Either way it had our attention.
Australia’s such a young country for the colonists, though one of the oldest in the world for the First Nations people. Despite the atrocities committed against them, it seems that the original peoples and the white interlopers are slowly starting to live side by side. It helps that Australia is a multicultural society no matter the rise and fall of complaints about immigrants. We’re all immigrants, every single one of us who came from afar. Canberra is even younger than the original colonial settlement, and never grew organically the way cities normally do, so it can seem a bit staid and sterile. But then there are things like skyspace, and the coffee scene, the nature reserves, and all kinds of festivals. And the National Gallery – so nice we went there twice.
Next post: Swinging back to Greece and a visit to Iraklio/Heraklion on the north east coast of Crete.
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2023.
Lovely to read your take on our city – well, your city too. The other thing about Cressida Campbell was that she was a realist – none of this impressionist, free-flowing stuff but it was still emotive. I liked that.
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Thanks so much Helen. I find Canberra both changed, and so familiar, each time I come back. And we go to the gallery every time.
I too love Campbell’s realism. She’s not trying to be arty, but paints what she sees with love and deep awareness.
Alison
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Wow! Fascinating and beautiful. I noticed the beautiful vases especially the possible, Famille Jaune yellow and white. Lovely.
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Thanks Cindy. I love going to the gallery. There’s always something interesting to see, and it just gets better and better. I loved that special arrangement with the vases – hence the photo. Don’t know if it’s Famille Jaune or not.
Alison
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What a very fabulous art gallery, Alison. It’s reminded me that there was an excellent TV series of Australian art a few years ago. I can see exactly what drew you to the Cressida Campbell exhibition. Love the giant size version of the mural.
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It is indeed a fabulous gallery Tish. I go every time I’m back in Oz, and there’s always something appealing happening, though I must admit Cressida Campbell was a special treat – and I’d never heard of her. Too long living in Canada guess, under a rock 😂
Alison
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:O
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So glad you got to see the Cressida Campbell exhibit. I loved it so much.
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I’m really glad I got to see it. We loved it too – enough to go twice. Her work has such a clear honesty about it. She’s not trying to impress, just sharing the beauty she sees.
Alison
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I liked seeing how she moved around furniture that she wanted to include in an image.
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Oh yes. And the colours, such beautiful arrangements/use of colours. I wish I’d photographed the nasturtiums.
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Besides what you wrote about the entire museum, I especially like the Sidney Nolan paintings and your story of Ned Kelly. I’ve never heard of either but I have seen the pictures. How have I missed this? Someone once sent me a postcard but I had no idea of the significance.
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I love those Ned Kelly paintings, but I’m not surprised you’ve not heard of him, or Sidney Nolan. I think not many people outside of Australia have. Now you know what the postcard was about!
Alison
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Wow! I had to go over this one several times. What a fascinating place.
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Thanks Kay, glad you enjoyed it. It’s for sure a fascinating place. It’s a fabulous gallery, but even just skyspace alone is amazing.
Alison
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At the risk of sounding like an uncultured heathen, I’ve found that art museums are really not my thing. BUT, I like Cressida’s work, and I LOVE the skyspace description! That would be the draw for me – and the gardens. 😉
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Oh you dreadful heathen you! 😂 I admit I don’t always seek out art museums either, and when I finally got to the Louvre I didn’t go anywhere near any of the paintings – spent my time with the Russian religious icons and the ancient Greek and Egyptian stuff. But yes, skyspakce is really something special, and the gardens are lovely. You’d probably enjoy the Sculpture Garden – some pretty amazing pieces there.
Alison
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I was in the Louvre years ago on a school-type trip. Everyone was trying to oggle the Mona Lisa, and I was much more interested in the floor-to-ceiling painting of Napoléon riding triumphant on his white horse. I don’t think I’ve been back since . . .
When I went to the Prado in Madrid, the portraits were not at all of interest. But the side gallery with the fancy glass/crystal table serving ware and goblets – yes please.
Yeah, I would probably love the sculpture garden. I’ve been through the one in DC and enjoyed it.
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Your visit to the Prado sounds like the kind of thing I’d like. Twice I’ve walked right by the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam because of the huge line-up. And at the Met in NYC I was all about the Tiffany stained glass.
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Oooh, the stained glass would be lovely. I’m not a huge Art Deco fan, but it’s hard to go wrong with stained glass.
My only experience at the Sistine Chapel did not come with the serenity and quiet contemplation one would wish for such an experience. Maybe that’s changed in the 15 years since . . .
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Sadly it sounds veery much like my own experience at the Sistine back in 2011.
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Alison, this is a beautiful post. I love your perspective of photographing people as they’re viewing the art. And Campbell’s art of the ordinary is so appealing. I have not yet visited this museum, but I can assure you that it’s at the top of my list. ~Terri
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Thank you so much Terri. Campbell’s art is so beautiful isn’t it! I hope you get to the NGA one day. Any plans to go to Oz on this RTW trip?
Alison
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Thanks for this guided tour. Wonderful stuff. I love the Skyspace images.
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My pleasure! It’s such a great gallery, and skyspace is magic.
Alison
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Looks like a fabulous Art Gallery. Such a great outing with family. I especially like the aboriginal art.
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It really is a fabulous gallery – all kinds of interesting and unusual art. I too love the Aboriginal art.
Alison
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This post is so chock full of images and stories and meaning that I don’t know where to start! The art and gallery themselves are lovely, but your observations on the transitory nature of life and the Australian version of colonization (and its characters) add so much. Very cool what you did with the black and white people looking at the full-color art. (And maybe even cooler images of the pool reflections!)
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Thanks so much Lexie. It’s a really wonderful gallery, with much to offer that’s international as well as a strong focus on Australian art, both indigenous and colonial.
There were quite a few characters from the Kelly era, though he was by far the most famous. Collectively they were known as the Wild Colonial Boys.
I’m glad you like my full colour/b&w image. My sister hates it because amongst (serious) photographers it was a fad that is now frowned upon apparently. I don’t care a whit! It was really fun to do.
The skyspace pool is such a fabulous place for photography – you’re pretty much guaranteed at least one good image there.
Alison
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Part of the fun for me is seeing how light can play tricks. Your playfulness at the pool was a fascinating set of photos. I also enjoyed seeing the photographers in the reflections, another fun angle on the experience!
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Thank you so much. That skyspace pool is always a really interesting place to take photos. It is a wonderful example of how light can play tricks. We had a lot of fun there with that.
Alison
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“It seems to me that in the modern art world one has to make dark or dramatic or political images to be taken seriously, but give me beauty anytime.” I couldn’t agree more with this, Alison. It can be tiring to have to find the meaning or messages of modern artworks. Sometimes what I need is just enjoying beauty effortlessly, something that is pleasing to the eyes and the mind. From your photos, I think I would enjoy Cressida Campbell’s works as well.
I have a soft spot for indigenous art, so it’s really encouraging to see how First Nations art in Australia is becoming less and less marginalized. As an outsider, it seems to me that New Zealand has done better when it comes to acknowledging their indigenous people’s rights, art, and culture. But it looks like Australia is moving to the right direction too, hopefully.
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I completely agree with your first paragraph. I want to see something that fills me with joy, not something I have to work at, or be disturbed by.
I’m loving the way indigenous art is more and more being taken seriously, and the people also.
New Zealand has done wonderfully well, though there was never the same extent of marginalization there that there was in Australia, or Canada or the US for that matter. I don’t think there were ever residential schools or reservations there. I vaguely remember that early white settlers in NZ had treaties with the Maoris.
Australia at least is definitely moving in the right direction.
Alison
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I loved this introduction to Australian art. The opening of Sidney Nolan’s narrative paintings of Ned Kelly is something I would like to see ~ it made me remember a bar in the Tsimshatsui area in Kowloon, HK, “Ned Kelly’s Last Stand” and it was a very rowdy place… first I had ever heard about him.
The most powerful piece of art is that of Swiss artist Urs Fischer. Wow, I looked for further information about him, and it is a fantastic piece and style of art ~ as you say, the wax creates a means for its repeated destruction, and the power is this destruction can be rebuilt again and again… sadness in understanding the destruction but power in the emotion of understanding this cycle.
But the pieces that resonated with me are the peaceful/serene pieces by Cressida Campbell and then the work by the American artist James Turrell: the photos of you and Don are AWESOME… such serenity and beauty 🙂
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Ha! You found an Aussie bar in HK! Chuckle, I don’t doubt it was rowdy.
Nolan’s narrative paintings are quite wonderful, and really capture Kelly’s story – the life on the run, the shootout, the court case, the homemade armour. Apparently Nolan was influenced by Gauguin’s primitive style, which he’s used to great affect.
As for the Fischer work, I was dumfounded! What a message, and what an original and powerful way to convey it.
I wish I could have shown more of Campbell’s work – equally powerful in an entirely different was. Her works make you want to almost climb inside them – the detail, the serenity, the quiet honesty. Beautiful.
As for Skyspace – we go every time I’m back in Canberra, and every time my sister Julie manages to capture some fantastic images. I love those shots of me and Don. They really show the fun of Skyspace.
Alison
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