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beach, Howe Sound, photography, picnic, travel, Vancouver area, Vancouver BC, Vancouver beaches, West Vancouver, Whytecliff Park, Whytecliff Park beach BC
It’s a bit of a scramble to get down there. There’s a wide switch-back path from the parking lot for most of the way but as you get down to the beach every step becomes a negotiation of logs and rocks; fitting feet carefully in narrow spaces alongside some, climbing over others, slowly moving through the obstacle course until you get to the pebbles. More step by step negotiation; the pebbles are strewn with fallen debris from the dense leafy wall of trees that defines the limit of the beach; while carrying towels, sarongs, bags and backpacks with drinks and sunscreen and layers of clothing, and the cooler full of luscious picnic food. You’d better be wearing sandals.
And then finally sand; space to move freely along by the water and find the spot.
I’ll not gonna lie. Being an Aussie I’m a bit of a beach snob, but I’ve come to love the beaches of the rugged Pacific North West for their grandeur and beauty if not for the water temperature. Vancouver has some fabulous beaches: Spanish Banks for a long low-tide amble and volleyball, Jericho for hot summer evening picnics, and barbecues, and volleyball, Kits for laid back crowds and music, and clothing-optional Wreck Beach. There are several beaches in the West End, including English Bay and Sunset Beach. And many more, some well known, some not so much, some with amenities, others secret and hidden and you’d better bring your own TP. And diminutive Whytecliff Park beach on the North Shore, way out west near Horseshoe Bay.
The beach itself is not so special being narrow and not very long, and the sand a little gritty, but the setting should win awards!
This view (above) is looking towards the rocky outcrop that forms the northern end of the beach, and is part of the wild and jagged coastline facing Howe Sound. Looking south is the rock, as in The Rock! Whyte Islet is definitely the star of the show.
We’ve been several times over the years with a group of friends, all of us making the long trip out there often enough that it has almost become a tradition,
and the food almost legendary. We know how to put together a good potluck picnic! Salads and salmon and sushi, berries, cherries, and fresh peaches, French bread and pakoras. It really is a feast. We all dive in, the conversation being passed around with the dishes as we fill our plates and bellies. Contentment. Happiness. A summer blessing.
Behind us in the shade are more logs, for leaning against, for sitting on, with the trees overhanging and gracing us with shade when we need it.
We spread our blankets and sarongs and get settled in. There are a couple of us who swim. And I mean swim, for an hour or more, way off shore, so that I start to worry for them, seeing their tiny heads bobbing like harbour seals way way out. But they are strong swimmers and it’s a calm safe bay. Soon they return to shore drenched and happy, assuring us all how refreshing the water is. But I’m a Aussie and I know better. I know it’s brass monkey temperature out there and nothing will get me in past my ankles.
On warm summer days this tranquil secluded beach, the water appearing green from the reflection of the trees,
provides endless beach theatre. I sit back and enjoy the show: children playing,
sail boats floating by,
an intrepid paddle boarder (I worry a bit about him too – he’s so far from shore!), a flotilla headed to the starting point for a small regatta,
and best of all – the endless rock hopping out to the island, demanding of each person a constant focused dialog between body, rocks, and water.
There are always people headed up, or at the peak,
and of course most of us on one visit or another do our own dance across the rocks to the island and scramble-climb to the top.
The other side of the bay also calls to me. There’s a trail, then some rock steps, then a climb over the rocky bluff to the crest. More of the theatre of Life – a compelling performance: three adrenaline junkies hurling themselves off a channel marker, indicating just how deep the water is here, deep enough to be one of the best places in the area for scuba diving. Over and over and over they jump, three thrill seeking missiles hurtling down into the water in a display of sheer audacious daredevilry. The joy and excitement is palpable as they egg each other on.
When they’re done they crawl barefoot straight up the rock face to the top of the cliff.
And a seagull swallowing a sea star bigger than its head.
I didn’t watch this one right to the end but I did watch one in Lighthouse Park once. It was a young seagull, but fully grown. I came upon it when it had just put the sea star in its beak. I watched as it swallowed and swallowed and swallowed seeming to make little progress. On and on it went, by tiny increments getting it further and further in, but still it seemed as if it would not be successful in the endeavour. For a while I felt like I was about to witness the choking death of a bird. I was riveted, like watching a harrowing but compelling train wreck I couldn’t look away. I couldn’t see how it could be successful, until suddenly it was! Suddenly the sea star was gone, dinner for an adolescent seagull.
I see kayakers far below,
and seals – in the water
and sunning themselves on the rock shelf beneath me.
Back on the beach: some people are naturally elegant no matter where they are or what they are doing. Alas not me.
On one excursion there is a luxurious birthday lunch for a friend at West Vancouver’s deluxe Boathouse Restaurant,
where I have Chinese/Japanese/Mexican fusion at its best – tacos (Mexican) made from crispy wonton (Chinese) filled with a seared-tuna salad, covered in ponzu sauce (Japanese) and all sitting on a bed of guacamole (Mexican) – and swoon over the best dessert ever.
Quick change artists: our fancy restaurant clothes give way to beach clothes for a late afternoon visit to nearby Whytecliff where we hang out, walk the trails a bit, get our feet wet, watch the kids and the rock hoppers, until the late summer sunset comes
and we gather up our things and head home.
Whytecliff Park is part of the traditional, ancestral, and unceded territory of the Coast Salish (Tsleil-Waututh, Squamish, and Musqueam).
Next post: Christmas stories
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2022.
What a delightful post, Alison. You photos are lovely and it just looks like so much fun with everyone enjoying this amazing setting. You guys know how to picnic. 😃 Thanks for the getaway.
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Thanks so much Jane 🙏 I’m glad you enjoyed this little virtual getaway. We *do* have fun there – it’s such a lovely place.
Alison
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What a Beautiful post! Memories of growing up in Vancouver in the ‘50’s and ‘60’s flood my memories. The seastar swallowing gull is amazing!! I’ve never seen that…
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Thanks so much Pat 🙏 Vancouver in those days must have been wonderful. My first visit was in the 70’s – still a small town really – then in the 80’s I finally emigrated to Canada. I lived up north for a long time though, then eventually moving down to Vancouver. It’s a big city now for sure.
I too was amazed by the seagull eating a sea star! 😳
Alison
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Wow! Looks wonderful and the food looks spectacular!
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Thanks Cindy, yeah, it is pretty wonderful. And we always do an awesome potluck! We’ve all known each other for 20+ yrs and have had many many potlucks together. Standards!
Alison
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Pingback: Rock Hopping For The Win! Whytecliff Park beach, West Vancouver — Adventures in Wonderland – Chusaengsri
Such a great post with nature beauty and action shots
And the gull eating the starfish is wonderful a that should be framed !!
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Thank you so much Yvette 🙏 I’m glad you enjoyed it. Isn’t the gull amazing! I could hardly believe what I was seeing!
Alison
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😊💛
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Adventurous
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Aw thanks. I guess we are. It’s the kind of place that just invites exploration.
Alison
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Its Pakistan https://kherifootwear.com/swat-valley-video/
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Great story and pictures, as usual, Alison! I especially like the one where the seal looks at you over his/her shoulder.
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Thanks so much Astrid 🙏 I like that seal shot too – cute!
Alison 💕
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Alison, you’ve created a beautiful reverie – I feel like I was there on the beach with you. What a lovely tradition. And the food! Truly a feast. But the one image I can’t get out of my head is that gull gulping a sea star. Amazing! ~Terri
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Thank you so much Terri, what a lovely thing to say. Except for this last summer we missed a couple of years in there, but I’m sure we’ll get back to it on a more regular basis.
Isn’t the seagull incredible! I was sure the one I watched was going to choke.
Alison
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Wildlife and great food! What else can one ask for?
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It’s a pretty good time for sure! 🥳 👏👏
Alison
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Whytecliff Park was one of my favourite spots when we lived in the area. The children would love finding little crabs scuttling away when they lifted a rock. The picture of the gull with a sea star in its mouth is amazing.
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Whytecliff’s just lovely isn’t it! 💕 Even after living here for years I’d never heard of it until one of our friends suggested the first picnic there a few yrs back. I’m so glad she did – now it’s on our radar for sure.
I was completely blown away by that gull! I never would have thought they could do that.
Alison
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Nice spot. No way I’d swim there without a wetsuit. Even at the surface, the water must be in the lower 50s F.
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I completely agree about the water!😳 You’d never get me in there. In the shallows on a hot summer day it’s quite lovely but you don’t need to go very far in before it gets close to freezing.
Alison
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Oh I’m going to have to check this out in the summer Alison ☺️🌞your captures are wonderful ~ hugs hedy ✨
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Thanks Hedy. 🙏 Oh I hope you do check it out this summer – let’s make it a date!
Alison 🤗
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Looks like a really nice picnic with friends on a sunny day, Alison. I love the look of those potluck dishes! If I were there, I would also climb Whyte Islet — the idea of going up the rock sounds more interesting than going in the cold water. Like everyone else, I’m amazed by the fact that a seagull can gulp down a sea star. Nature is incredible.
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It’s such a lovely spot and we always seem to put together some pretty spectacular potluck picnics. I agree that climbing the rock is *much* more interesting than getting in that cold water! 👏👏
Gobsmacked by the seagull! Just incredible to see it. The one at Whytecliff flew off before it finished swallowing it. I thought it was going to die because the sea star seemed to be stuck in its throat. It was only much later that I watched the one at Lighthouse Park (just up the coast a little way) that I could see that it’s possible for them to swallow it.
Alison
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Beautiful and adventurous.
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Thank you so much. 🙏
Alison
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I can totally see why Whytecliff Park beach is well worth the schlep. There is so much to savor here… the candid captures of both kids and adults frolicking and rock-hopping, the wildlife, the unspoiled scenery, and your words, which overflow with glee at being in such a beautiful place with good friends. Seagulls are such greedy creatures but I had no idea they could swallow sea stars whole! And I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a sumptuous picnic in my life.
Looking at your photos brings back some fond childhood memories of many Canadian summers spent in Ontario and BC. There wasn’t a lot of beach time but I remember the quality of light and the agreeable temperatures – warm but never too hot, at least compared to steamy subtropical Hong Kong! And I did love how those long summer days seemed to last forever.
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Thanks so much James 🙏 It’s a lovely place and we always have such a good time there. Especially with such fabulous picnics 🥳😁 We’ve all been friends for so long and have had so many potluck meals together that we’ve kind of come to expect sumptuousness!
I’m glad I brought back some good memories for you – the winters can be tough here, but the summers are special for sure. The second summer for me in Canada I was in the far north of BC, near the Yukon border and I so fell in love with the long days – twilight would come at about 10.30pm. And as you say – beautiful light.
Alison
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The rock-hopping photos are delightful! It looks like a place worth a little work to get to. I do need a beach fix now and then. Love the opening and closing photos, the subtle colors.
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Thanks so much Ruth 🙏 It’s definitely worth the scramble to get to it – such a pretty place, especially at sunset. Those are two of my fave photos too.
I also need a beach fix now and then. Hopefully we’ll be off to Mexico soon though nothing is firmed up yet.
Alison
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It warmed my heart to see summer scenes, good friends and food, and the delights of sun and sparkling water. I couldn’t help feeling a tiny chill seeing the names West Vancouver and Horseshoe Bay right now as my only connection to those places was Caroline, so it’s good to see your happy memories here.
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Thanks Lexie. Happy to have warmed your heart a little, and so sorry about the chill 😢 I too am sad about Caroline. So shocking and heartbreaking. I put this post together and published before I heard the news.
Alison
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Gosh, what a fantastic place! No wonder you go every summer. You didn’t mention if this place is “bring your own TP.” 😉
I never knew seagulls ate sea stars – that was a WILD picture to come across! Having attempted to dissect one in high school biology, those things are tough and rough! I can’t imagine wanting one in my digestive system.
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It’s a pretty special place for sure, and it’s not a bring your own TP – there’s washrooms and a concession so we are well looked after.
The gulls and the sea stars! I was completely gobsmacked. Gulls are rough and tough too apparently!
Alison
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Your shots are remarkable as always. I so loved the seal looking back directly into the camera… so much expressiveness there. And the rock-hopping-scramble-up-the-cliff-channel-marker-Olympics does look very fun. The first two of three anyway. haha. So beautiful to see all of your friends sharing in these lovely days. It is heartwarming…
Peace
Michael
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Thank you so much Michael 🙏 I loved all the activity – the rock hopping, the guys on the channel marker, all the activity. It’s always so entertaining, but yeah, you’d not get me jumping off that channel marker either!
Alison
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The number of delicious images – of food or not – is beyond belief here, Alison, I can’t begin to talk about any one in particular. What a magical place that is! The journey – especially with old friends – really makes it all the more memorable. There are so many stunning landscapes and brilliant photos of people here. Just great and a real treat to see in the winter!!
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Oh thank you so much! I’m glad you like them.
It is indeed a magical place. I always love photographing there because there’s so much going on, and such variety.
We all haven’t been for a while. I think we must get the gang together again this coming summer.
Alison
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