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5-8 February 2019
In December 1973, when I was 23 years old, I left Australia for the first time. The plan was to visit my sister who was living in Vancouver, see some of Canada and the US, and then return home for the beginning of the university year in March to complete my degree in Library Science. I didn’t get back to Australia until April of 1975 and promptly went to art school.
Anyway, during the (northern) summer of ’74 I spent some time travelling around Europe with a friend. It was my first time ever in Paris. There are so many stories I could tell about that summer, but here’s one: we’d taken the metro
to the station nearest to Sacré Coeur Basilica, still one of the iconic, and most visited buildings of the city. We walked up the stairs from the metro to the street above. At the top of the stairs there was a short squat older man in dark pants, a striped top, and a beret. I swear he looked as if he’d just stepped off a Gauloise packet. Before we’d barely even set foot on the pavement he said Sacré Coeur? Oui, we replied in our best French. Suivez-moi he said without looking back as he set off through the crowded narrow cobblestone streets of Montmartre . We almost had to run to keep up with him. After a few minutes at double-time and turning a few corners along winding streets he suddenly stopped and pointed up a flight of stairs. Voila! Sacré Coeur was clearly visible at the top of the stairs. He disappeared into the crowd before we could even thank him.
In 2008 I was back in Montmartre with Don and some friends from Australia for another day of exploring, and then again on this trip in 2019. Montmartre, with the incomparable Sacré Coeur Basilica, will always be one of my favourite parts of Paris.
After climbing the many stairs of the approach to Sacré Coeur we reach the panoramic viewpoint on this foggy hollow winter day.
There’s a man selling Eiffel Tower trinkets, and a harp player,
and very few people. It’s one of the blessings of travelling in the off-season.
After listening to the sweet sounds of the harp drifting like smoke in the air we climb some more stairs. The basilica, a pile of white meringue against a white sky entices us, and we enter into the golden glowing beauty and sacred silence of the interior.
This Roman Catholic Basilica, dedicated to the sacred heart of Jesus, sits on the summit of the highest point of the city, the Mount of Martyrs, a place that has been a site of worship since the time of the Druids. It was designed by architect Paul Abadie in the Romanesque-Byzantine style and built between 1875 and 1919.
I have to share this little morsel about Montmartre:
It’s about a twenty-minute walk from Sacré Coeur to St Denys-la-Chapelle, the Chapel of St Denis, situated on the spot where he died. How he got there is the stuff of myths and legends. The original Christian chapel on Montmartre was built in about 270 CE to honour St Denis who was the first Bishop of Paris. The story goes that after he was beheaded by the Romans, St Denis picked up his head and carried it on a twenty-minute stroll while his mouth gave a complete sermon. With the sermon over he closed his mouth and fell down dead never to rise again. And today on that spot sits the chapel that honours him.
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I’d heard of Galeries Lafayette, but never been there. Every time I researched what to see in Paris for previous trips I would see Galeries Lafayette mentioned, as a department store, which was enough for me to immediately put it at the bottom of the list, or actually not even on the list at all. Why would I want to go to a department store? I can do that anywhere, and also I’m not a shopper.
I have never understood the concept of shopping as a hobby. Crafting is a hobby. Stamp collecting is a hobby. Skiing or fishing or skate boarding is a hobby. Sewing or knitting or painting or drawing or writing. Any of these can, of course, be professional activities but if pursued only for pleasure then they are hobbies, and with the exception of the purely physical, hobbies are usually somewhat creative endeavours. But shopping? Buying stuff just for the sake of it isn’t a hobby. It’s more like a heroin fix.
Anyway, enough of that. This time I read enough about Galeries Lafayette to discover that it’s not just an upmarket department store. It’s a building worthy of royalty! And apparently Galeries Lafayette and Sacré Coeur both have dibs on being the second most visited site in Paris after the Eiffel tower, though I would question both claims. And what about Notre Dame Cathedral?
There was a small haberdashery store on the corner of Rue La Fayette and Rue de la Chaussée d’Antin, near Palais Garnier, which I’ll get to in a bit. Back in 1893 two cousins Théophile Bader and Alphonse Kahn decided to establish a novelty store there. They called it Aux Galeries Lafayette. It was such a success that within three years – three! – it was set to become a gigantic department store when the cousins bought the entire building, and eventually four others nearby. After years of refurbishing the ambitious and enormous Galeries Lafayette was officially opened in 1912. There are now Galeries Lafayette stores around the world.
Théophile Bader had dreams of a sumptuous marketplace where luxurious goods would turn people’s heads, and a diffused golden light would shine over all making everything radiant. What a vision. Architects Georges Chedanne and Ferdinand Chanut designed the Art Nouveau store around a glorious neo-Byzantine 43 metre high dome. The dome, conceived by glass artist Jacques Gruber, quickly became the symbol of Galeries Lafayette.
So we walk into this department store not really knowing what to expect, but finally Galeries Lafayette has gotten to the top of the list of things to see in Paris. We snake our way past various counters overflowing with gorgeous things, all under a soft golden light, and eventually we ask where we go to see the dome.
When I finally see it, it literally takes my breath away. I hardly know how to hold such splendour. How does one take it in, this artistic and creative brilliance? My mind doesn’t know how to process it. I can only stare in gratitude for such beauty.
If all department stores looked like this I might spend a little more time in them.
When we were in Paris for three weeks in 2008 we were sharing an apartment with my sister and I remember the two of us getting the metro to a market and coming home with our packs stuffed full of fruits, vegetables, and other groceries for the coming week or so. My memories are a little loose. I was sure it was Marché Bastille we went to, but when I look back at my photos they are all of a flea market, not food. Anyway wherever it was, I wanted to go back to it, so early one morning Don and I set out for Marché Bastille.
We arrive so early on this chilly morning that the market is hardly set up and there are few people around. So we do what any sensible Parisian would do. We go to a nearby bar for coffee and a croissant and watch the crowds of regulars lining up at the bar for their morning shot of espresso. It’s warm, and busy, and the whole place smells of fresh coffee and croissants. We find a table towards the back in the narrow dimly lit room and sit there for quite a while. As we slowly sip our coffee and chocolat chaud, and munch on the classic delicate pastries, it feels like we’re part of the real Paris.
Twice a week Boulevard Richard Lenoir comes alive with purpose and brilliant colour. Locals flock to Marché Bastille,
a conglomeration of stalls offering a dazzling array of, well, just about everything. There are over 100 stalls offering fruit and vegetables,
seafood, flowers, clothing, preserves, baked goods, fresh yogurt, nuts, cheeses, more varieties of olives than I’ve ever seen,
embroidered cloths from India, hot meals, or oysters for breakfast,
and fur.
One of the biggest markets in Paris, it stretches from the outspread wings of Colonne de Juillet, the July Column, which rises in the centre of Place de la Bastille celebrating the three glorious days of 27–29 July 1830 that saw the fall of King Charles X of France,
though I doubt any of the Parisian shoppers are thinking of this as they make their choices, or the vendors as they call out their wares. It’s relatively quiet, and not at all what I remembered from that previous visit with my sister, but still, a slice of real Paris on this chilly winter morning.
We go back to the apartment and make ourselves baguettes filled with chicken, avocado, and tomato and eat them sitting in the thin pale sun in a nearby park all rugged up in just about every layer we have with us.
I’m a bit of a magpie. I’m attracted to shiny things and bright colours, and the entrance foyer of Palais Garnier is not radiantly colourful. I think I was a bit overwhelmed by all the brown marble. Also I didn’t know at the time how to photograph such a huge imposing space, and anyway I didn’t want all those tourists in my photo! So I focused on details.
As a result I have no images of the grand staircase and foyer that is the entrance of Palais Garnier. And it really is grand. Grand enough to take your breath away. Like Galeries Lafayette is a department store fit for royalty, Palais Garnier is an opera house fit for royalty. It is truly majestic. If you follow the link you’ll see what I mean.
The building, a 19th century architectural masterpiece named for its architect Charles Garnier, opened in 1875. It has always been one of the wonders of Paris, and has been called the most famous opera house in the world, but its celebrity was really cemented because it was used as the setting for the enormously successful and popular musical Phantom of the Opera, based on Gaston Leroux’s 1910 novel of the same name. I always think of the phantom as the original stalker. Creepy.
Now the Grand Foyer! Not remotely creepy. This is a room that fills my radiant magpie heart. All that gold! And the chandeliers, and the lush ceiling! The room, 18 metres high, 154 metres long and 13 metres wide, was designed as a drawing room for Paris society; a place for them to stroll and mingle, to see and be seen. It is situated right next to the most expensive theatre boxes.
Apart from croissants and baguettes we don’t really eat French food in Paris. One evening we discover Tien Hiang, a vegetarian restaurant just down the road from our Airbnb, serving seriously good Asian fusion food. Don has Pad Thai and I have the pho. It’s so good we go back twice more. On the other hand after a day spent walking in the cold we try the place across the road from Tien Hiang. Big mistake! We have the chicken salad rice bowl at Le Bichat. Flavourless overcooked chicken. Worst meal in Paris, one of the worst meals anywhere ever. On another day, for lunch we have excellent chicken with rice at a place called Indonesian Street Food. You win some, you lose some.
Twice I’ve been to Notre Dame Cathedral
and not gone inside because of the long lines. A third time, during the 2008 visit, I do go inside and shuffle along behind a few hundred other tourists. My only photos of that time are of the stained glass windows, and I have no memory of actually seeing the interior. We didn’t climb the tower because we’d have had to wait hours. This time I’m determined to see inside no matter how long I have to wait. It’s winter in Paris; there is no line up! How sad and appalled I was by the fire just two months after we were there that has seen the closing of the cathedral until further notice. How lucky and grateful I am that I finally got to see the glorious interior,
and climb the tower before that happened.
And yes, we walk a long way to get a shot of France’s mini Statue of Liberty (given to France by the American community in Paris in 1889) in front of the Eiffel Tower, because no matter how many times you’ve been to Paris you always have to see the tower, and why not go to where you can see it with the Statue of Liberty in front of it?
So that’s it. Four days in Paris in February. I’ll close with a shot of the city from the tower of that Gothic grand dame of cathedrals.
May she be repaired soon and be better than ever. May the repairs be a gigantic perfect piece of kintsugi!
On the fifth day we went to Chartres – next post.
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2020.
You have brought back some great memories for me of my first and only visit to this magical city, in May of 2018. I loved it and like you was not interested in seeing the Galeries Lafayette and was a little annoyed when my friend insisted on taking me there. Of course, I was blown away by the dome. My French friend told me that at Christmas, a tree is suspended from the middle of the dome and is more spectacular every year. I also was very pleased to have been inside Notre Dame before the fire. The choir was singing when I was there and it was amazing. I have so much material for my next book! Your pictures are fabulous.
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Thanks so much Darlene. Paris is so wonderful. There are so many beautiful buildings to see, and the people the food the streets the vibe – all really special. It must have been amazing to be in Notre Dame when the choir was singing. I bet the acoustics were heavenly! All the best for Amanda in France!
Alison
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So amazingly beautiful. That open market is a dream. I love how everyone has their own little rollie carts to fill with stuff. Love love love.
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Paris is so special. The market is even bigger in the summer with a whole other area dedicated to second-hand stuff. I loved it all so much. Parisians are so dedicated to getting fresh food everyday. It’s lovely to see.
Alison
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Paris must corner the market on beautiful buildings, mustn’t it? 🙂 🙂 Thank you for taking me back to Sacré Coeur, and inside Galeries Lafayette- a first for me, and if I ever go back…!
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You’re welcome. I think it’s the third time I’ve been to Sacré Coeur. It’s always worth it. And yes, Galeries Lafayette is spectacular. I had no idea. So glad it finally got to the top of the list.
Alison
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Beauteousness Alison!
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Thanks Cindy. Paris is so full of beauty. Lucky to have had this extra little visit to see some new places and old favourites.
Alison
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“Buying stuff just for the sake of it isn’t a hobby. It’s more like a heroin fix.” Ha, now tell me how you really feel about it, Alison. 🙂 Great photos and content as always, Peggy and I will be heading back to Europe this summer for a trip on the Rhine River. Don’t know whether we will make it back to Paris, but we are spending several days in Leon. Happy New Year to you and Don! _Curt
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Thanks so much Curt. Have a lovely time in Europe! A trip down the Rhine sounds heavenly.
Re shopping as a hobby – I always say what I really feel 🙂 and I bet you agree with me. Chuckle.
Happy New Year to you and Peggy too. Here’s to 2020 vision.
Alison
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To 2020! Thanks Alison.
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Beautiful post! I’m almost crying I want to go back so much. Your photography is excellent and just so real.
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Thank you so much Suze. I hope you get back there! Paris is always special, even in the winter.
Alison
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Such opulence in those buildings. Your radiant images really make me miss living in Europe.
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Thanks so much Julie. Oh the opulence takes my breath away – every time. I would love to see more of Europe. I’m sure there are many many palaces, cathedrals, stately homes that I’ve not seen that would make my heart sing. I can imagine living in Europe would be quite wonderful – for the buildings, but also for the winding cobblestone streets, and the people, and the markets. And the sense of history.
Alison
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Wow such an in-depth post. I live your comment about shopping as a hobby. LOL!
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Thank you so much. I assume you mean you love my comment about shopping. Chuckle. Don’t you just love autocorrect!
Alison
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Paris is a place I’d like to visit in the winter, despite the cold. You got to see it with many fewer tourists, and I imagine the locals are nicer at that time of year. Your description of coffee and croissants on a cold winter day in Paris sounds like a delightful simple pleasure.
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Paris is lovely in the winter because, as you say, there are fewer tourists. Almost none really and it made for some nice exploring without huge crowds. Even at Marché Bastille it was almost all locals. If you have the right clothes to be warm its lovely. Coffee and croissants – a most delightful simple pleasure. And so verrrrrry Frrrench.
Alison
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Extraordinary images, Alison!! And you’re right, Paris is always a good idea. Though we’ve been several times, there are spots you’ve highlighted that we missed!
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Thank you so much. I think I could go back and find even more highlights. I can’t believe how many visits it took for me to finally get to Palais Garnier (and we still didn’t do the whole tour there – there’s a Marc Chagall ceiling that we missed!) and Galeries Lafayette, so I’m not surprised you say we found some that you’ve missed. It’s a very special city that’s for sure, with so much worth seeing.
Alison
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Lovely photos! I’ve been to Paris a few times over the years and will always jump at the chance to go back. And yes, winter is just as good as summer!
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Thank you so much. It’s funny, we didn’t really think about going to Paris in the winter. We were just looking for a stopover on the way to India, and I got to choose between Amsterdam, Frankfurt, and Paris (see previous post). A no brainer really. It was colder than we expected but we did have enough layers – just. And it was just as good as summer if only because of the lack of crowds!
Alison
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Like you, I’m usually not interested in going to department stores or malls when I travel because we have a lot of them here in Jakarta. But I will make an exception for Galeries Lafayette (they have a department store in the Indonesian capital, but it doesn’t look anything like the original place in Paris). I’ve read countless posts on the French capital, but your two posts are the ones that managed to make me seriously think of going back one day. After all, I was there only for a few days. I didn’t go inside the Sacré Coeur Basilica, I didn’t get to see the marvelous interior of Palais Garnier, nor the Musée d’Orsay.
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Thank you so much Bama. Your comment about my posts making you think of going back made my day! If you’ve only been for a few days then you definitely need to go back! There’s so much to see. So much beauty, and so much history. The history creeps up from the pavements wherever you go until you’re enveloped in it without even being aware of how deeply it fills and surrounds you.
Alison
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I loved the line ‘I didn’t want all those tourists in my photos’. I drive Jim mad with comments like that! And Sacre Coeur is one of my favourite places in Paris. I hardly ever go in. I just like to sit on the steps and watch the people and buskers. Loved all your photos. Made me miss Paris so much!
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Thanks Tracey. Paris is amazing isn’t it. Just putting these two Paris posts together made me miss it too. Re all those tourists – sometimes I so badly want the shot without them, but mostly I just embrace the reality, albeit sometimes reluctantly.
Alison
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Paris is wonderful. I have such fond memories of the city. Sacre Couer and Montmartre are my favourite part of Paris. I chuckled at “Buying stuff just for the sake of it isn’t a hobby. It’s more like a heroin fix.” Totally agree Shopping is not a hobby. I saw the Dome for first time in 2019, and it was my sixth trip to Paris. Lovely post, enjoyed reading it.
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Thank you so much. I’m glad you enjoyed the post. There’s so many beautiful buildings and neighbourhoods of Paris. It’s one of those cities where you can discover new things on every visit.
Alison
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So lovely Alison. I too love Montmartre. There used to be a fondue place on the winding road up. I’ll never forget when I was 21 and a friend of mine who both were studying in Paris ate fondue there. They served us wine in baby bottles! Such a funny memory. As for the Notre Dame, I used to go on the days they had free live organ concerts and close my eyes and just listen. There is never a dull moment in Paris, never a boring moment. Always something exciting to see and discover. Oh I love it.
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Thanks so much Nicole. Oh that’s so funny, remembering the fondu and baby wine bottles. I too have similar kinds of memories from travelling in my 20’s – just really random things. It’s funny what the mind holds on to.
I imagine listening to the organ concerts in Notre Dame would be simply heavenly!
Paris is just wonderful!
Alison
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What wonderful memories your stories brought back to me – we have visited many times and love walking everywhere but your photos and stories have motivated me to do even more on our next visit in May. Many thanks, Alison.
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You’re welcome! I’m glad I brought back some good memories for you, and inspired you to explore more of beautiful Paris! My one regret is that we didn’t go to the Atelier des Lumières https://www.atelier-lumieres.com/en/events. We went to a similar exhibition in Montreal of Van Gogh paintings and it was quite magical.
Alison
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Yes! Paris is ALWAYS a good idea. Brilliant title! Love the story of St Denis and, of course, all your exceptional photographs. So much fun seeing this endlessly fascinating city through your eyes, and picking up a few new ideas of where to go when someday we return again. I already can’t wait! xo, K.
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Thanks so much Kelly. Re St Denis – I love finding those little historical nuggets. Not the dry boring things like in 18whatever this happened then in da da da this happened etc. but the almost forgotten stories of unusual happenings, or of the dire results of hubris, things like that.
Glad you like the photos. I do believe I’m getting better, but still learning, always learning.
I don’t think it’s possible to return to Paris too many times.
May we both get back there again one day 🙂
Alison
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Love the stories, old and new, and the beautiful photos as well. I felt the same about Galeries Lafayette the first few trips – why got to a department store? Then I went … and then I got it!
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Thanks so much Lexie. Paris was lovely, and the department store definitely worth a visit. Bowled over!
Alison
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Paris is ABSOLUTELY always a good idea! I’ve never been to Galeries Lafayette, I definitely want to go now!
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Even in winter Paris can charm the pants off you. Hope you get back for Galeries Lafayette. It’s pretty spectacular eh!
Alison
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Outrageously gorgeous!
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I got to see Paris for the very first time in late August of last year for a “big” birthday, and I was absolutely enchanted – but of course it was a much different experience than yours. A lot warmer, with a LOT more tourists. After reading your post, now I want to go experience Paris in winter – it seems like a quieter, more contemplative time. Anyway, I love your lyrical writing and your stunning photography. And how lucky you were to see Notre Dame before the fire. When we were there, it was shrouded in scaffolding and looking so forlorn. Hope I get to see the inside before I die 🙂
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Thank you so much Susan for your kind comment. Paris is so magical, even in winter, and yes, more quiet and contemplative in the winter. Also because we’d been before we weren’t rushing around trying to see all the things on the “top ten” list for Paris.
We were soooo lucky to see Notre Dame! We were there in Feb and the fire was in April! I hope you gat back to Paris, and see the interior of Notre Dame. (Though I must say my favourite cathedral by far is Chartres which I’ll cover in the next post, and is an easy day trip from Paris).
Alison
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Ha, funny you mention those “top ten” things. We’re glad we have them all ticked off the list now, and when we return we will be able to get more off the beaten path. Looking forward to your Chartres post!
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When I was 17, I went on a month-long summer trip to France. My strongest memories are of the outside of Sacre Coeur, and Notre Dame, and the Holocaust memorial. Oddly, I don’t think we went INTO Sacre Coeur; I have no memories at all of the inside or even of entering the building. It was enough just to take in that white exterior and the views all around . . .
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This sounds like an amazing time, though strange that you didn’t go into Sacre Coeur. The exterior is pretty wonderful though. Do you remember going into Notre Dame? I didn’t the first time I got inside. I think there were just too many people there so you lost the sense of spaciousness. I’m glad I went back in the winter.
Alison
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Ugh, this post makes my heart ache! I know it’s a cliche to love Paris but I’m with you, given the chance I’d revisit in an instant! I too, had put off Galleries Lafayette before but I’m kicking myself now, it looks breathtaking!
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Oh I do hope you get back one day. Galeries Lafayette if definitely worth seeing, but totally get why it gets pushed down the list. I’d go back to Paris again even now, just to soak up the vibe. When we were there in 2008 we stayed way out in the suburbs and found local pubs spilling out onto the pavement and way beyond the reach of tourists. It was soooo cool.
Alison
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Love your photos and love Paris. Have been there 3 times and I miss it now!
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Thank you so much. Paris is magical. I hope you get back one day!
Alison
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The cathedrals are inspirational, just so beautiful. Especially Notre Dame – yes, what a piece of luck that you went back and went up and took good pictures.. What are those gargoyles thinking now? Seeing them looking out over the gray, wintery city is somehow very poignant after the fire.
The man playing the harp – what a great image that is! And I like it in black and white. Love your description of that early morning coffee before the market. And the fur seller, of course. 🙂
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Thanks so much Lynn. I think the fur seller and the harp player are a couple of my favourite images in this post. And the cathedrals! I haven’t seen enough European cathedrals to be tired to them yet so it was wonderful to get to see these two a second time. Notre Dame especially I felt like I was seeing it for the first time, and getting up the tower and seeing the gargoyles was such a great experience. So lucky to have seen it. So sad about it now. But then it’s the story of the ages. Just did some research for the post for Chartres and the Chartres Cathedral was burned down or destroyed in war five times! And still it stands, a new iteration. So we’ll get a new iteration of Notre Dame too no doubt.
Alison
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Ah Alison, it has been far too long since I was in Paris. The one and only time I went was during the winter of 2006, with my bread- and art-loving mom (Paris to her is essentially heaven on earth), and we enjoyed it for much the same reasons you wrote about here. I was utterly amazed to get to the Eiffel Tower and discover that there were no lines whatsoever! One of my favorite memories of that time involved an afternoon at the Musée d’Orsay where we could stop and admire paintings by the Impressionist masters without being jostled by huge tour groups or selfie-takers. Then our “dinner” was a box of delicate pastries from a nearby pâtisserie on the way back to the hotel.
We went to the Galeries Lafayette as well, purely to see its incredible, jewel-like dome. As Bama mentioned in his comment, the one here in Jakarta is a poor, poor substitute for the Parisian original – there’s nothing that makes it any different from any other high-end department store. And the Palais Garnier – now I wished I’d actually bothered to visit and see those deliriously over-the-top interiors. The artists and architects behind it must have had a case of horror vacui!
Your photos of Notre Dame are simply glorious, and I can just imagine how tranquil and sublime it felt with the lack of tourist crowds. Sadly I never did make it to Sacré Coeur, which has captured my imagination ever since I first saw it depicted in Madeline, a series of old-school children’s books set in Paris. There really is no place quite like the City of Light.
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Thanks so much James. It sounds as if you had a wonderful time in Paris with your mom. Isn’t Galeries Lafayette glorious! And I do love your term horror vacui. I never did learn Latin, but I get it, and definitely think it applies 🙂
I agree – there really is no place quite like the City of Light. It has it’s own magic that’s for sure.
And now we’re off to India. There’s no place quite like that either!
Alison
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I share your enthusiasm for Montmartre, and also now “get” the attraction of the Galeries Lafayette after our visit in September. I was heartbroken about Notre Dame Cathedral as we viewed it from the outside with all the scaffolding and construction. You are indeed lucky to have seen it before the tragic fire. You’ve done Paris proud Alison. Wonderful post!
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Thanks so much Caroline. So glad we finally made it to Galeries Lafayette – it really took my breath away.
I too was heartbroken for Notre Dame, but reading the history of Chartres helped me put it in perspective. Much endures, but things change. They’ll replace the steeple with a new different one and in a hundred years to so it will have been absorbed into the history of the building and people will only know the previous one from photos. I have this optimism that the new steeple will be something quite wonderful – different but still wonderful
Alison
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You are absolutely right. The fire was just a blip in the church’s long history and its life will continue. I’m happy to read your optimistic take.
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ahhh Paris, there really is no bad time to visit. I feel totally the same way about shopping, it is simply not a pastime but a chore to be done when necessary, but as you discovered, Galeries Lafayette is about so much more than just shopping. It really is a marvel to behold.
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Oh yes, Paris is wonderful at any time. Such a special place. And I’m so glad Galeries Lafayette finally got to the top of the list!
Alison
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It is nice with the old stories from before the pandemic. It is hard to imagine how much can change in less than a year.
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Thanks Jesper. And thanks for all the likes. I’m still telling travel stories from before the pandemic. One of these days I’ll eventually get caught up. But of course no new travel 😦
I agree – so much has changed. I’m not sure it will ever go back to how it was, where people travel freely. But I do hope there is some travel again eventually.
Alison
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