
The last line in my previous post about my recovery from pain and hip replacement surgery was: I have no idea what’s on the other side of recovery. That’s to be discovered. It will be a whole new era.
So here’s what’s on the other side of recovery:
I can’t say that I’m fully recovered, but I’m getting there. I’ve been working with a group of specialists at a pain clinic. The work has included trigger-point injections into frozen muscles, a new regime from an exercise specialist, and an eight-week course to understand the nature of pain and how to reverse chronic pain. I’m not back to where I was a few years ago, but I’m now confident I’ll get there, or at least close enough to be able to do all I want.
Here are some of the unconscious beliefs I’ve uncovered in the past few weeks:
Getting old means being in pain.
Getting old means being stiff.
Getting old means inflammation.
I wrecked my body and I’ll never be able to fix it.
Seriously? Seriously?
All of these things may or may not be true, but for sure if I believe them then that’s what I’ll experience.
As I’ve become conscious of these beliefs, and released them, things have improved. A lot. I can now walk over four kilometres with little pain and no inflammation. No inflammation! No recovery time! This is huge. I expect to be able to gradually increase that distance over the next couple of months. Considering that a year ago the best I could do was a slow painful 20-minute walk around the block, I’ve come a long way.
Yay for freedom to move again!
In May of last year Don and I reestablished a home in Vancouver. After nearly six years being nomadic it was an adjustment for me, and involved some grieving, but Don just settled right in. He was happy to have a home again and to stay there.
A few months ago we were out walking and I asked him if he’d want to travel again in the spring. His answer surprised me. It was an enthusiastic yes, let’s do it while we still can. So we decided that we would go to Japan and China in the spring, and Spain, Portugal and Morocco in the fall.
We started researching and planning for Japan and China. More than one experienced traveller has told us that China can be challenging due to difficulties communicating so we’d long ago decided that when we were ready to go to China we’d do a tour. We booked a three-week tour from Beijing to Hong Kong for May, with the idea it would be preceded by a couple of weeks in Japan. At the very last minute for confirming our China tour Don pulled out. He’s developed a medical condition that day to day is not problematic, and probably will eventually heal itself, or may require surgery, but it’s one of those things that could without warning become a medical emergency. He wasn’t prepared to take the risk and travel while it is unresolved.
And so I am going alone.
For the first time since Don and I got together twenty years ago, actually for the first time since I was thirty, thirty-seven years ago, I am travelling solo. It feels huge, and scary, and exciting, and it’s way outside my comfort zone.
It’s a whole new era for Don and me. We’ve been pretty much joined at the hip ever since we got together and now from April 26th I’ll be gone for nearly seven weeks. And to Japan, a country that has virtually no crime but where all written directions are in a symbol-salad that hurts my brain so I won’t be able to read street signs or a map, the language is incomprehensible, and few people speak English. How will I ever find my way around?
Since I realized about five weeks ago that I would be travelling alone I’ve been through a wide range of emotions ranging from elated to downright terrified. Terrified? I’m an experienced traveller, what’s there to be terrified about? None of this is rational; it’s deep basic primal survival stuff. I’ve always had a strong anchor next to me taking care of all the practical details and now I will have to deal with them all myself. The fears were about becoming lost: so lost I couldn’t find my way back to my hostel. Ever. I did say it wasn’t rational.
Another fear was about being alone: it’s so long since I’ve been alone that apparently on some primitive level my very survival felt threatened. I’ve addressed these fears, released the emotional charge around them and now begin to see a light that is all about excitement and a bubbling joy to be travelling and discovering new lands once again. The more I research Japan the more excited I am to be going there.
In China I’ll be travelling with Intrepid Travel on the China Experience tour. My big fear about China is that I won’t be able to keep up with the group. It’s a quite strenuous tour that requires a good level of fitness. There’s a slow 5 km walk on the Great Wall that no doubt will involve a lot of steps. There’s a three-hour hike at altitude that definitely involves plenty of steps and steep paths. And there’s a daylong cycling tour. I’m working on my fitness. Strength and stretching exercises every morning, hiking most days (though I still haven’t gotten much past an hour), and cycling at the gym and workouts in the pool a couple of times a week. I can only hope that when the time comes I’ll be good to go.
Finally at the age of 67 I have a smart phone! I’m slowly wending my way through all the relevant apps. That app that lets me write or speak English and have it translated immediately into Japanese? It is everything! Most of the fear fell away on discovering it. Of course I knew about it. Don has it on his phone but we’ve seldom used it. Suddenly it is real, and relevant, and as if it has arisen in my consciousness for the first time. I’ve been practicing! And there’s another app that lets me plan a journey on the monumentally confusing and intimidating Tokyo metro.
Bit by bit I’m gathering all the information I need to make it as easy as possible. Bit by bit it becomes more and more exciting.
My itinerary:
Tokyo 9 days, Shirakawago (a small village that is a Unesco World Heritage site) 2 days, and Kyoto 6 days. I then fly to Beijing where I have 3 days to regroup and explore a little by myself before joining the tour.
In Tokyo: a day trip to a huge annual flower festival at the foot of Mt Fuji, hopefully cherry blossoms (though I think I’ll be a bit late for that), a sumo stable to watch practice, the fish market, as many back alleys as I can find, Harajuku, and Fuchu for the big annual Kurayami Festival that involves many parades of lanterns, giant taiko drums, floats and dancers.
In Shirakawago: two days to unwind in the country and explore a small traditional village.
In Kyoto: most of the usual shrines and temples, a day trip to Nara, a day trip to Arashiyama, and a day trip to Ine, a small fishing village known as the Venice of Japan.
So it’s a whole new era. We have a home, and I’ll be travelling alone. I’ll keep you posted.

Next post: My favourite wildlife photos, and the one after that will probably be from the airport.
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2018.

so wonderful and exciting…I loved Kyoto…what fun!!! many smiles ~ hedy 😀
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also China was amazing I was there for the Paralympics…a trip I will never forget…also before I started to photograph…you’ll have fun with your new camera for sure! smiles from warming etown…happy plotting and planning Alison ~ smiles
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Thanks Hedy. I’ve been hearing much about how fabulous Kyoto is, and I’ve been intrigued by China for years! I’ve bought a second-hand zoom lens (about 70 I think to 200). Anyway the camera store can’t let me have it until the 17th because apparently they (and pawn shops etc) have to keep second-hand goods for 3 months in case they’re stolen. So soon I get a new fun lens to play with. Can’t wait. Sending hugs from sunny Vancouver.
Alison
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The anticipation is also the best! Many smiles back from sunny etown 💫☀️☺️
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oh Alison! so happy that you’re on the road to recovery. Happy for you that you’ll be travelling again, so sorry to hear that Don has some medical problems.
Don’t worry about the language in Japan! We had a (short) trip there several years ago, and I remember stopping one day in Tokyo to try to match up my map with street signs (many of which are in English!) when a very kind gentleman stopped and asked me if I need assistance! Everywhere you go in smaller place especially, you will be politely asked by groups of students if they can practice their English on you! And we found the metro really easy to use 🙂
I’ll be following your China trip with interest, it’s on my list!
And we’re thinking about Spain in November/December, maybe we’ll meet up?!
all the very best to you both! Danila
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Thank you so much Danila. Don is fine. It’s not problematic day to day at all, just could be a bit of a risk to travel. I love that info about the students! And of course many many people have mentioned how kind and helpful the Japanese are. I’m glad to hear you found the metro easy. Just looking at the map of it is a little intimidating though no doubt I’ll figure it out when I’m there. I think China is going to be amazing! As I said on FB we’ll likely be in Spain in Sept/Oct so probably won’t meet 😦 Ships that pass in the night . . . . .
Alison
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Alison you are magnificent and brave! You will be just fine, and i love it that you & Don each honor the preference of the other.
Japan will take care of you….
Love and Early Wishes for your safe travel and continued health!
Love
Jo
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Oh thank you Jo! I feel a little bit brave. Brave enough that I’m doing it! And getting more and more excited as I clear the anxieties and gather more and more information. I too believe Japan will take care of me, I just had to clear out all the fears first. I will land, take a deep breath and sally forth! Don and I are good at giving each other space, and good at simply giving to each other. How lucky we are. Thanks for your kind wishes.
Love to you too
Alison
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Oh my goodness Alison I am so very excited for you!! What an exciting adventure you are about to embark on. One thing that immediately came to mind re Japan was how extremely friendly and helpful we found people to be. Kind strangers helped us figure out the metro, during our short layover there a while back. Not only explained how to use it, where to get off etc but stuck with us making sure we were okay.
Make sure you eat lots of dim sum in Hong Kong!! 🙂
Very happy to hear of your good health progress. Oh yes, mind and body are so VERY connected. This book might interest you: “How your mind can heal your body” by David Hamilton. What you tell yourself is very connected with your well being and recovery. It is everything! Spunds like quite the journey.
Best wishes for Dons recovery and good for you for still going ahead with the travels, solo. I understand the trepidation. It is how I feel if I have to travel anywhere without Ben, the feeling of the person who “has your back” not being with you….but travelling solo also opens many doors for communication and discovery that would not happen if you were travelling as a couple, as you know. You are going to have a blast!!!
Peta
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Thanks so much Peta. I’m getting so many messages about how friendly and helpful the Japanese are that I think I should just forget all my worries. It sounds like for sure someone will help me when I need it.
Of course dim sum! I still remember the night markets from when I was in HK back in 1978 – fabulous food. I hope they’re still there.
Oh the connection between mind and body is everything! I have actually healed myself several times simply be getting clear on the underlying emotional cause and the unconscious beliefs and expectations. Hamilton’s book sounds interesting just from the title. I started this kind of work way back in the 80’s with Louise Hay.
Don’s fine really, it’s just not something he wanted to risk with travelling.
Apart from the trepidation of travelling solo there is also an awareness that interesting and amazing things will happen simply because I’m alone. I will no doubt meet more people because I can’t rely on Don for company. I’m definitely getting excited!
Alison
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And what are Don’s plans for “local adventures” while you’re gone?
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Don here: there are so many beautiful places to visit in and around Vancouver that I’ll just have to start making a list. Thanks for the prompt Pam!
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Wow! Have never been to China. I loved Japan. When you are here please remind me to show you our photo book – 3 of us went – all photographers. xoxo
via iPhone, Olivia Fermi, MA, RTC Counsellor, Coach, Teacher
>
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Yeah right? I’m still a bit amazed by the way things have worked out.
I was in China for a week in 1978 just after they’d opened the borders to tourists and was on a Chinese Government tour from HK just up to Guangzhou (was Canton and not far north of HK) – it was fascinating though I’m sure much has changed since then. Looking forward to seeing your book of Japan.
Ali xox
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I can also vouch for the Japanese – wonderfully helpful and there are quite a few English signs – not like 20 years ago. Consider getting a rail pass. We bought one each and hung them round our necks. We could come and go into and out of railway stations at will. You still sometimes have to book seats, but that is no drama. I’m sure you’ll have a wonderful time. All the best, Helen
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Thanks Helen. I did check out a rail pass but it’s not worth it for my itinerary. I will however be getting a metro pass that I can use in both Tokyo and Kyoto. I’m thinking once I get there and plunge in it will all be okay. Hope so anyway!
Alison
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Ch-Ch-Changes! Crisis = Opportunity! How exciting!
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Yes, so exciting! I love the way the Universe unfolds; how things that you never thought you’d do are suddenly there as opportunities. I feel very blessed.
Alison
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Sounds like things have improved with respect to getting around as compared to 20 years ago. I lived in Tokyo from 1986 to 1989, and not a whole of people spoke English or would offer to help should I be lost. Getting around was done by landmarking: Get on the ___ train and sit on the third car from the front. Get out at ___ Station. Walk ___ meters, then take the stairs to your right. Turn right at the top of the stairs and you will see a flower shop just down the round. Turn left at the flower shop and then walk half a block until you see a bakery. At the bakery, turn right.
And so on. The problem was that should one of the shops be closed, the plan collapsed entirely.
I twice managed to get myself on the wrong train to Narita Airport! On the second occasion I’d planned to take a bus, but it happened to be the day of the Emperor’s funeral and all the buses were cancelled. Fortunately that time the plane was late as well.
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OMG Gayle I can’t even imagine trying to get around in Tokyo 20 years ago. My sister lived there for 3 years, also about 20 years ago and loved it. I still need to pick her brains!
Alison
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They used to say: “live begins at 40.” I’m pretty sure it starts at 70, or maybe 67 for some. This morning as I bent over to pick up something from the floor, I thought: oh, that hurts. And I’m a little pissed at a reality that allows you to grow old, and hurt. I think the best thing is to stay active as long as you can. And just so you know, most young people in Japan speak English fluently, so if you need help, ask a student. When I was in Japan, I had no problem with finding my way around, and no problem riding the super-fast train. I did not, however, get to see Fuji–fog the whole time. Biggest memory: the greatest looking, most perfect & biggest strawberries I ever saw, but at $13 a dozen. I still wish I could plan a trip the way you guys do. I still don’t know where I’m going for Spring Break in three weeks. Or summer.
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I am no longer willing to believe that aging means being in pain!
I’m overjoyed to hear most young people speak English. This is good news for me.
I’m also pleased to hear you had no problem finding your way around. If you can do it I can 🙂
I’m praying for a sunny day the day I go to the Mt Fuji flower show. Fingers crossed.
You do the get-on-a-plane-and-go-somewhere-and-discover-stuff-when-you-get-there kind of travel. We’ve done that quite a bit over the years, but I couldn’t imagine doing that for Japan. For spring break and/or summer why don’t you throw a dart at a map and just go? Dive into the unknown. This is of course assuming you’re braver than I am 🙂
Alison
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I agree, aging doesn’t have to be painful…you just have to do what you have to do to make sure it isn’t. I sit most all day…every day–at school, when prepping or grading my courses, and when writing. Sitting all day is NOT one of the things you have to do so you don’t feel pain. In Japan, don’t eat the strawberries. Oh, and get this: I almost booked with Intrepid in China, but the dates didn’t work out!!
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Ah yes I can see how all that sitting could be problematic. I’m so sad the China dates didn’t work! It would have been wonderful to see you again and to travel with you! 😦
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Self-discovery never ends!! I believe in you 🙂 also download Maps.me it’s a great offline map.
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Thanks Kaya. And yes you are right – self discovery never ends. I’ve heard this is true even for people like Adyashanti, Byron Katie, and Gangaji. I suppose it must be infinite.
I have maps.me. I’ll be practicing with it tomorrow 🙂
Alison
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So good that you’re getting stronger and more fit! And yay that you are taking on solo travel. I can’t say enough about how great I think it is; I found out who I really am on my first really on my own, no back up of any kind, on the Molokai trip I took. You’ll be fine with all of your experience. Just let it flow. And, Don, hope you’re doing ok. Hugs to you both.
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Your Molokai trip sounds amazing. I kind of expect the same kind of thing with my Japan trip. I think it will open all kinds of doors – especially internally. I know I just have to surrender and trust the unfolding. I will use that as my mantra. I’m kind of excited about the self-knowledge that will arise from this journey. No doubt it will change me.
Don is fine. He’s happy and heathy, just didn’t want to risk travelling at the moment.
Hugs to you too.
Alison
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What an adventure you will have. It will be great. I know it’s scary, but like you said, it’s what is in your head that’s your reality. A few years ago I took myself off to Ireland on a walking holiday, because like you and Don, Jim and I are always together. I was terrified of getting lost! I walked fast, to ‘save’ time in case I should get lost! I was always fine, and so will you be. You’ll relax into it, and have a ball. If you have any practical questions about Tokyo or Kyoto, I’ll be glad to help, if I can. Can’t wait to read your blogs!
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Oh your Ireland trip sounds wonderful, but also a challenge I totally understand. When we’re used to having someone there to not only share the good times with but to also lean on when things become challenging it takes an adjustment to not have that. I’m not sure how I’ll do but I know I have to really go slow and be aware of my surroundings, really drink everything in so I don’t get lost, and also maybe have an agenda for the day but not be too attached to it and let the current of the day take me. No rushing to save time! It’s a good lesson.
I’ll certainly take you up on your offer as I think of things. I gather you’ve spent time there – must go rummaging around in your blog!
Alison
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And also perhaps to realise that getting lost is not so bad. I built it up to a big thing in my mind, but Japan is so safe, and the people are so gentle and helpful – even if they cannot speak much English. The worst thing that will happen if you do get lost is that you will lose time – and the best is that it will be an unexpected, rewarding bonus! We spent 3 months in Tokyo last year – and loved it – we can’t wait to go back – and a very brief 4 days in Kyoto.
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It had occurred to me that getting lost could bring some unexpected rewards. Just not quite ready to jump into it yet 🙂
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Alison, a thought just occurred to me. Have you heard of Tokyo Free Guides? It’s wonderful. Volunteers show you around their city. You choose your own itinerary, amount of time you want to spend with them etc. It’s free – you just pay the expenses of the guide – travel/lunch. It might be a good way for you ‘to get started’ in Tokyo.
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A huge thank you for telling me about the free guides! I have one booked for my first day there – I will get them to help me get oriented, how to use the metro, go to Fuchu (which is a bit of a complex journey) so I know how to get there and find out details about the festival there, go to a sumo stable and get a booking for later in the week, etc etc. I’m wanting the guide not so much to explore Tokyo, but to help me with all the navigation and booking details so I can later do it myself. It will be as if I have someone holding my hand for the first day. Thank you! I’m so excited by this. It means there will be someone with me to take all the bewilderment out of it. It’s perfect for me because I struggle to learn from manuals, from written descriptions, etc though I can do it if I have to. My most fast and efficient way of learning is to be shown. All my knowledge about photography, and photo editing, and using this laptop, and now learning to use a smart phone has come from someone next to me showing me. Now I have my own personal Tokyo friend to show me. I am so happy!
Alison
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Yes, I thought it would be perfect. Our guide was so lovely, we met her many times and she became a friend. Also maybe get your guide to take you to a ramen bar, so you can see how it works. You can book them more than once if you feel you need to. The tourist office opposite the entrance to Senso-ji is also very helpful, and they have English speakers. Also don’t miss the view from the top floor!
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Thank you! Have put Senso-ji, the tourist office, and the view on the list.
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Fantastic news all round! (except for Don’s health hiccup 😦 ) You will be the envy of many, Alison. You’ve worked for it- have a great trip! 🙂 🙂
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Thanks Jo. Yes it is fantastic news. I’m starting to get excited about travelling alone! And Don’s health issue really is just a hiccup.
Alison
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I’m pleased for you. Pleased that your pain is now manageable and that you can see through to an end. I also work on feelings of age/stiffness and I know that they do not have to go together. I am also pleased for your decision to continue with your travels solo. That is monumental and I can fully get why you would feel daunted. Extremely courageous to go it alone and to go it alone. I wish you well.
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Thanks Sue. It does feel daunting, but not as much as at the beginning. Slowly I gather information and encouragement and become more and more excited – to be seeing Japan, and to be travelling solo. Heading out into the world all alone! It’s both scary and thrilling.
Alison
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Well done you, on the recovery front, though sorry to hear that Don’s travelling has been curtailed. And now the big big adventure for you. You will have the BEST time. YOU WILL!
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Thanks Tish. I’m so happy with my recovery. Walked 5 km today with no inflammation, and no recovery time. So happy! It is a big adventure. I do think you’re right – when I get all my ducks in a row and actually get there I will have the best time!
Alison
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You are both an inspiration not only to the retired but to those of us who are in the 50 to 60 category and experiencing heath problems. It is clear that you both love life and new experiences. Keep it up !
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Thank you so much! What a lovely thing to say. We do both love life, and work with our health issues as best we can. I’m sure Don will be ready to go again for our Autumn travels. And I’m working on being ready for Japan and China – getting a little better every day. I hope you find some solutions and/or workarounds for your health problems. These bodies! You never know quite what you’ll get!
Alison
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exciting! have a wonderful time x
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Thanks Annie. Yeah – exciting!
Alison
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have been to Japan a million years ago – loved it
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Wow such exciting plans. I think couples benefit from taking time apart. My husband and I have done that many times and it has greatly enriched our relationship. We miss each other and long to be together again, but also make the most of time apart to enjoy our own journey without compromising. Looking forward to hear how you get own 🙂
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We have been apart in the past several times, but not while travelling. I’ve taken off for a week at a time a few times to attend figure skating competitions and way back in 2002 I went to Australia to spend 6 weeks with my mum, but the last 6 or so years since we started travelling we’ve been in each others company all the time. It will be an adjustment, but as you say a positive one. I do look forward to the freedom that comes from travelling solo.
Alison
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You go girl! You DO got this !
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Thank you! Yes I do!
Alison
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I love your revelations, and am so excited for your solo trip! I, too, get worried traveling without my husband, but I think you’ll really enjoy Japan and China. We just lived in China for the past 6 months or so, and have found the people there to be very helpful and friendly (as many have said here about Japan.) You’ll be so novel, and because many Chinese also want to practice their English, and because you’ll be on a tour… No problem! Have a great time!
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Thanks Sarah. I must admit I’m starting to get pretty excited myself, even though it feels a bit daunting. I’m not worried at all about China because of being on a tour. It really takes all the worry out of travelling (except for hoping I’m fit enough!) I love the idea that the Chinese will want to practice their English with us. I remember last time I was in China back in 1978 – people gathered in crowds around us just staring, especially since my boyfriend at the time had long bushy red hair and beard. They’d probably never seen anything like it!
Alison
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This reminded me of that oft-shared question: “When was the last time you did something for the first time?” And of course it won’t be your first time travelling alone but a lot of it will be (or will feel) new and that’s…momentous. Enjoy all of it. xx
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It will be the first time travelling alone since Don and I got together so that’s really new, and yes, momentous. Thanks Gaya, I plan to 🙂
Alison xox
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Oh this is so exciting! Don’t worry about the Japanese not being able to speak English; you have technology to help you navigate your way in the country, and the locals will be more than willing to help clueless foreigners. If only James were still living in Hong Kong, I know he would be more than happy to show you around! On a side note, when you and/or Don visits Jakarta one day, please let us know! We’ll try our best to show you some interesting places in this city many people love to hate.
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I’ve heard many times now how helpful and kind the Japanese people are. That along with my technology (which I still find a little intimidating) should help me find my way around. I am definitely starting to get excited about it.
I’m finally getting to HK and James is not longer there! Too bad. On the other hand when we do eventually get to Jakarta we’ll get to meet you both and you can show us around there.
Alison
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So happy to hear that you are firmly on the road to health, it will make travel so much easier, eh? Yeah, ok, life too LOL.
And how exciting (and scary) that you will be flying solo finally, it is indeed a whole new world for you to experience. I have little doubt you will soar… my philosophy is research like a fiend and then just jump.
Looking forward to reading about your new adventure. How is Don taking it?
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Thanks Donnae. I’m so pleased with my progress healthwise. I really feel now as if I’m getting my body back. It feels so good. It’s sunny in Vancouver today and we’re off for a hike this afternoon, probably in the Endowment Lands. I’m hoping I can do 1.5 hours. That would be real progress for me – especially with a three-hour hike coming up in China.
Going solo is indeed a whole new world. I did travel solo a lot in my 20’s and 30’s but that seems like another lifetime and another world. I’ve gotten so used to Don being there to rely on. I have to relearn that I’m capable.
I’m hoping to soar, and I like your philosophy.
Don is taking it very well. Occasionally a little envious, always extremely supportive.
Alison
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Best of luck for you next journey. I am more excited to read your japan and china travel stories. And yes i also remember you in my prayers for good health and safe, strong, wise and motivational journey!
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Thank you so much for your kind and supportive thoughts. There will certainly be plenty of posts about Japan and China coming up! I’m excited to experience and share these cultures.
Alison
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Life never fails to surprise. So much happening for you. Thanks for sharing and keep on! Excitement ahead.
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Yes it’s true – life never fails to surprise. It reminds me of what John Lennon said: life is what happens when your busy making other plans. I would never have thought to plan a solo trip, it’s just the way it unfolded. Excitement ahead! Yes!
Alison
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Look forward to reading about it!
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Glad you’re doing better. And wow, more great future plans. We live in a miraculous bionic age but have yet to fully get a handle on pain management for so many. Sending love. ❤
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Thanks Paulette, I am doing much better. It feels so good. The pain clinic is part of the BC medical system and most of the services are without charge. It takes a few months to get in and you need a doctor’s referral. I was so lucky to finally get in and it has made all the difference. It is a team of pain specialists who really understand the nature of chronic pain and approach it from all angles.
Love to you too ❤
Alison
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And from Ben:
First of all, congrats on developing the travel solo muscle and for having the courage to proceed. Japan/China sounds like a great trip. With regard to Japan, where I lived for five years, if I may offer a few additional tips:
In Tokyo, 9 days is quite a bit of time. While you have specific “activities” like the sumo thing and Mt. Fuji, hope you take the time to just “be”. Harajuku is a high octane shopping district and so it is a good idea to end the sometimes frenetic pace by going to the large peaceful park at the bottom of Harajuku.
One activity that is always satisfying but is not a “destination” per se, is to find out when and where there might be “temple markets”. They are a great opportunity to see the neighborhoods around the big temples and experience all the wonderful treats that typically make up the busy temple market scene.
Each temple has its own “emma”s. Unique wooden tablets, each a magnificent work of art and these make fantastic momentos. Do make sure you visit a few Ofuro–baths. Community hot baths. Whether in Tokyo, Kyoto or Nara, these typically make for great experiences.
Have a wonderful trip.
Ben
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Thanks for all this info Ben. I’ve chosen 9 days in Tokyo because it is Golden Week and I didn’t want to be travelling around the country when all of Japan is on holiday and moving from place to place. I have a Shinkansen booked from Tokyo to Kanazawa on May 6th which is the last day of Golden Week and the day everyone will be on the move to get back home after the holidays. Also because it is Golden Week there are several festivals in Tokyo, especially Kurayami which will pretty much take up all of the 4th and 5th. And also as you say, I need time to just be. So I’m hoping 9 days is not too much. I know I’ll need at least one day where I have no agenda and just let the day unfold. Actually more than one day like that would be a good thing! The Harajuku park is on the list. And thanks for the tip about temple markets – that really appeals to me. I’ll look into it.
Alison
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As a long-time and frequent solo female traveler, I can tell you this will be an amazing experience. I STILL feel scared and nervous and uncertain before each trip begins, but once you’re on your way and/or there, all those worries will fall away. Will you get lonely at times in Japan? Probably, but you’ll also relish the alone time if you embrace it. And having the group in China will offer the best of both worlds – company during the day and the opportunity to regroup on your own at the end of the day. I’m so excited for you!
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Thanks for this Lexie. I do get the feeling that all will fall into place once I get there and that I’ll have an amazing time. I remember when I was 29 the night before I flew to Africa to do a 4 month overland trip from Johannesburg to London. I was nervous then and could hardly sleep, and it turned out to be one of the best things I’ve done in my entire life. I feel strongly that this journey, alone, is what’s really needed/wanted for me now, so I’ll jump in feet first and land wherever I may, scary or not. China feels easy, being on a tour, especially as I get stronger and fitter. I hiked for 1.5 hours today with no after effects so I’m doing good I think. I’m excited for me too 🙂
Alison
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I am so excited to hear your travel news Alison and that you have been making good strides in your recovery! Your selection of places to visit is awesome. I’ve only been to Spain (GREAT!) and the others are high on our list. I have lots of recommendations on southern Spain when the time comes for planning if you’re interested in any info.
I can well imagine that the thought of going alone to Japan/China is daunting and I applaud you for doing this. While you’ll miss sharing the travel experience with Don, I’m sure it will open up a whole range of new and interesting travel moments. Can’t wait to read about them!
Have a wonderful trip! All my best to Don. I hope he can resolve his health issue.
Caroline
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Thanks Caroline. The more I learn about Japan, and the more help I get (sooo much help just in the comments here!) the more I’m relaxing and feeling like I can do it. I will miss Don I know, but I’m sure there will be times I’ll enjoy being alone.
I’m sure Don’s health issue will be resolved eventually. Hopefully in time for travel in the Fall. Will get back to you about Spain!
Alison
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I’m so glad you are better, Alison! I’m looking for ward to your photos and stories from Japan and China! So sorry Don isn’t feeling like he can go this time and hope that his medical issues are resolved soon! Alison without Don/Don without Alison??? Not a concept I can easily grasp! 😘 Hugs to you both!
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Thanks so much Kaye. I am so much better! You will see me dancing as of old at the summer long dance! A without D/D without A – we have trouble grasping it too! But no doubt we will learn a lot through being apart for a while. We’re sure Don’s health issue will be resolved with time. Hugs to you too.
Ali xox
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Wow, just wow. Big news. We thought about the traveling thing and as exciting as it sounds I think we both would like to have a home base and travel at our leisure. I would not be brave enough to travel alone. My hats off to you. 🙂
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Thanks Dani. Yes, it is big news. I think I was born a traveller. I travelled a lot, solo, in my 20’s and 30’s but that now feels like another lifetime, so here I am relearning how to do it. After nearly 6 years without a home base we have now reestablished a home in Vancouver. It is a welcome change. I’m sure we won’t do the nomadic thing again. Nearly 6 years of that was enough. Now we love having a home base.
Alison
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Wow Alison that is so exciting. I can see why you might feel a bit nervous but my guess is at the end it will be a very empowering experience. Best wishes to Don for his health and I look forward to your updates!
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Thanks Sue. I too have a feeling that once I get over my fears I will learn a lot through this trip, and hopefully it will be empowering! I do get a feeling that the way it’s all unfolding is exactly right, that I’m aligned with some bigger weaving that I don’t, and can never, or need, to understand, just that it feels right even if I am scared. We’re expecting that Don will make a full recovery with time. And you can be sure there will be plenty of updates.
Alison
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Wonderful Alison. I will stay tuned!
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Alison! First, I hope Don is well and I’m happy to hear he’s looking after himself and not risking his health. Secondly, I’m so excited for you! You’ve got this. You couldn’t have picked a better country to start in as a solo traveler. Yes, the language is confusing but the culture and people are so respectful and kind. J, especially, adores Japan for these reasons. Any chance we can see you both before you leave? We’re likely leaving Vancouver around the end of April/May 1st. Time to hit the road again. Adventures ahead for all of us! xo ~K.
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Thanks Kelly. I’m starting to get pretty excited now. I’ve long heard how respectful and kind the Japanese are, and now I’m learning so much about the culture. I’m sure I’ll love it. I suspect there will be times I’ll also love the freedom that comes with solo travel even if I will miss having Don with me. He’s fine, and we expect his health issues to resolve with time. Would love to get together! I’ll email you. Dying to hear about your new adventures too!
Alison xo
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Hi Alison, glad to hear about your recovery! Sorry that Don is having some challenges, hope he is feeling better soon.
Your solo trip sounds exciting! At least where you are going elders like us are respected! I’m sure you will have assistance when and if you need it,
I have a question for you, have you been to Barcelona? If so, where in town did you stay?
I will be travelling solo, any impressions you have would be appreciated!
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Thanks so much Pat. We’re fairly confident Don’s issue will resolve itself with time and/or some relatively minor surgery. He’s generally in good health and walks with me every day, so nothing to worry about really.
The more info I gather about Japan the more I relax about it. It’s starting to sound quite doable.
We have been to Barcelona, back in 2011, and we stayed with a friend who lives there so I’m sorry I can’t help you with accommodation, but Don and I always try to stay centrally when we’re going to a new city unless we feel the local public transport seems easy to use (eg the Paris Metro). I seem to remember we travelled around by bus (and tram?) but since our friend did all the navigating I never did figure out how to use it. Hopefully you can find out online or it will be obvious when you get there.
If you do nothing else you must see the interior of Sagrada Familiar. The outside is very impressive, but the inside is spectacular. I think you can book (and pay for) online a time slot to be allowed inside the cathedral. It saves a long time waiting in queues.
Here are my 3 posts about Barcelona. I hope they give you some ideas of what to see:
Hope this helps.
Alison
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Alison, I am so happy to hear this – first at the healing from physical pain and then your news of the upcoming trip! Though Don is unable to join you this time, you’ve clearly made the right choice in sticking to those plans. I too am not keen on the idea of traveling alone (I’ve often felt that having a companion or two to share the experience makes it richer), but I know you’ll learn wonderful things and meet all sorts of interesting people. Plus you’ll realize that you are in fact stronger and braver and even more independent than you thought!
I have to second Kelly’s comment that Japan is the perfect country for reacquainting yourself with solo travel – you should have no issue getting around (public transport there has signage and announcements in English) and the Japanese are unfailingly polite and kind and considerate.
After not being in Japan for something like 15 years, I loved seeing Kyoto with new eyes when I went with Bama in October 2016. Some of the temples (like the Golden and Silver Pavilion) are easiest to get to by bus. On one occasion the driver was so helpful – he pro-actively offered multi-day bus passes which saved us the trouble of digging up small coins every time we got on board. I really recommend going to Nishiki Market in between the temple-hopping. It’s very photogenic and I have fond memories of snacking on all sorts of street food there – like freshly cooked soy donuts and skewers of the sweetest smoked scallop!
It will be so interesting to hear your take on how Hong Kong has changed since that last visit in 1978 – you’ll be arriving at a (relatively) new airport, and I don’t think the subway even existed 40 years ago! I’ll be going back at the end of April for a friend’s wedding, so it sounds like I’ll miss you by a number of weeks, which is a shame. But if you need any tips or advice for Hong Kong, just drop me a message – I’d love to help!
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Thanks James. I hope I find out that I’m stronger and braver than I thought 🙂
I’m expecting English signage in Tokyo and Kyoto but not in some of the more out of the way places I plan to visit. Still I imagine I’ll figure it out, and that I’ll get the help I need.
Thanks for the tip re getting to the temples in Kyoto by bus, and Nikishi Market – that is new info for me and I love markets.
I have actually seen the new airport in HK – Don and I once had a stopover there for a few hours. It’s on Lantau Island I believe. When I was there in 1978 my friend and I visited Lantau – from the ferry we spent the day hiking up through forest to Po Lin Monastery up at the top of the ridge and then back down and caught a ferry back to Kowloon from the other side of the island. Looking at my (very bad) photos it looks like there was nothing was on the island except for a couple of tiny villages, the monastery at the top of the ridge, and lots of natural forest. And no the subway didn’t exist back then. I guess things have changed a lot since 1978 🙂
Do the night markets still exist? I have a strong memory of eating fabulous street food at a night market in Kowloon that was set up every night in a big parking lot.
I’m not sure what I want to do yet with my 3 days in HK. I’ve earmarked a couple of hikes that get me out of the city a bit, and I’m hoping the night markets are still there. I know Aberdeen is no longer the junk harbour that it once was, but I’d love to find any parts of the city that still have the old flavour of HK. Got any ideas?
Alison
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Lantau is still beautiful, even with all the development has been going on since your last visit! Most people these days reach Po Lin Monastery by cable car or large buses, though I haven’t been in many years since it’s turned into a big-ticket attraction (complete with a tourist shopping village, ugh). One place I would heartily recommend though (it’s a bit of a detour) is the stilted fishing village of Tai O on the western end of the island. The most scenic way to do it is to catch a 40-minute ferry from Central to the town of Mui Wo, then take one of the regular buses along the southern coastline to Tai O (the bus journey is roughly 45 minutes to an hour). It gets crowded on weekends, but during weekdays Tai O is a lovely, quiet place for a stroll. They also have a historic colonial-era police station that has been transformed into a small hotel with a casual restaurant that’s great for lunch.
The Kowloon night market in a big parking lot – it doesn’t ring any bells I’m afraid. There used to be a couple of those around town in the 80’s (including two near the business district on Hong Kong Island) but they are long gone. The only night market I can think of now is the one on Temple Street, which is photogenic if rather touristy (still worth a visit though)!
On Hong Kong Island itself, the most traditional neighborhood is probably Shau Kei Wan. That’s right at the eastern end of the tram line and it hasn’t (yet) fallen victim to the gentrification that has been changing the face of the island’s western areas. I recommend it for the fabulous street market and the area’s street food – one of the top draws being egg waffles at Master Low-Key Food Shop (Shop B3, G/F, 76A Shau Kei Wan Main Street East).
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Thank you for all this detailed info! I’ll transfer it to my HK file.
A.
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Dear Alison,
I’m happy to hear that you are coming to Japan!
I’ve been living here for 3 years now and it would be a pleasure to meet you, if you do some kind of reader’s meeting (or not!).
Please e-mail me if you like the ideia and also if you need help with anything.
Hellen
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Hi Helen. It would be lovely to meet if it fits my schedule. I’ll email you.
Cheers, Alison
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Dear Alison, I am glad to hear that you are much better and so sorry that you have to plan your next journey alone. On the other hand I´d like to tell you that I had my very best travelling experiences when I went alone . I am sure you will enjoy that trip and… we live in connected times now… you will have your partner in your pocket … always with you. All my best wishes to you and Don. It is always a great pleasure to read your blog (although I have to admit thatI am pretty lazy with writing comments – my apologies!)
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Thank you so much Carsten. I am much better, and although I know I’ll miss Don, I’m secretly excited about all the freedom I’ll have travelling alone 🙂
Don is fine, and apart from this one problem which should resolve it self with time, is otherwise quite healthy. Thanks for your kind thoughts and support.
Alison
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You are always welcome!!! And I am looking forward to read about your upcoming adventure, Alison! 🙂
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Oh how I love your posts Alison and this one truly resonated with me. As Terry is 10 years older than me I have often wondered if I would feel comfortable traveling by myself if it came to a point where he no longer wanted or could travel like we are now. Although I take care of most all of the domestic issues in our lives, when it comes to international travels, he takes care of a lot of the navigational issues. My fear of getting lost would be first and foremost on my mind when traveling alone. I would hope that I could overcome my fear so as not to miss out on the gift of travel, which feeds my soul. I applaud you and look forward to hearing all about your new adventure.
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Thanks LuAnn. I love your comment. I know you really get what I’m saying about travelling alone, and about getting lost. Don’s 8 years older than me, and it has occurred to both of us that this trip is practice for the future when he really can no longer travel. You know that when/if the time comes that Terry no longer can or wants to travel that you will just head on out there and do it like I am. I have no doubt you’ll be strong and courageous and discover how to do it because, like me, it feeds your soul.
Alison xox
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I can’t imagine my life without travel. Terry is 10 years older than me and he knows he is slowing down a bit and isn’t sure how many more trips like this he will be able to do.
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Alison, you are brave and you are an experienced traveller. You will survive…with technology, fellow travellers and your own passion for travel. Though I can imagine you must feel so torn about leaving Don behind. I have had to travel without my husband because he was so busy with work and I used to enjoy myself. But there was always a gaping hole in those trips. Like I wanted to turn to him to share something or other other. Anyway, I think you have to be careful about your well-being while on the move. Good luck and bon voyage.
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Thank you so much DDG. I’m certainly expecting to survive 🙂 especially now I am getting so much information to help me, and now I have a Japanese guide for the first day in Tokyo to show me around.
I know I’ll miss Don, but I think I’ll also enjoy the freedom of travelling solo. At the same time I do hear you about the gaping hole! It will be hard not being able to share things with him.
Alison
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Well. This post started where I hoped it would and then veered off in a completely new direction! I’ve always been a solo traveler and have often wondered how I would cope with a partner. Some things would, of course, be much easier with another person. But then I start to worry about priorities and spending enough time at each place and if the other person really wants to do what I’m doing. So I can see how traveling by yourself would also introduce lots of irrational fears.
I will say that my Google smart phone, which has data in tons of countries, has been invaluable. From city maps to translation to buying train or bus tickets, it’s been a huge help.
I can’t wait to see your pictures of Japan and China. But mostly I’m delighted that the work you’re doing to get back to being fit is paying off!
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I’m curious. What direction were you expecting? There’s always compromise travelling with another person, but Don and I are so attuned to each other, and mostly want to do the same things anyway, that compromising was fairly easy. I can imagine it being difficult travelling with someone you don’t know well, or even with a good friend.
As I gather more information and support I seem to be getting over my fears.
I have 3 map apps, and a translation app but have not yet graduated to being able to buy bus and train tickets by phone – that’s a whole new world to me, and one I may never explore 🙂
I too am delighted to be getting fit again! You have no idea! Well you probably can imagine 🙂
Alison
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A new adventure, Alison. I’m excited for you. My guess is you will do just fine— and miss Don. Anyway, I’ll be looking forward to traveling with you! I turned 75 last week, so I get the age bit. 🙂 I’m nervously planning a thousand mile backpack trek this summer… so I may have ample opportunity to see how my body behaves. –Curt
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Thanks Curt, yes a new adventure. I’m getting pretty excited myself. All the information that I’ve gleaned from comments here has helped allay my fears, so I’m looking forward to the adventure, and the freedom, even though you’re right – I’ll miss Don. There’s just no substitute.
A thousand mile trek! You are unstoppable! And amazing! It’s twice the length of the Camino (which I still contemplate for the future). Given your history I’m sure your body will behave perfectly. It’s had plenty of practice 🙂
Have a fabulous time!
Alison
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Its the adventures that keep us young, Alison— in spirit and mind, and hopefully in body as well! Thanks. –Curt
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I wish you all the best and a lot of new adventures and health on the other side of recovery!
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Thanks so much rabirius. I’m starting to feel strong and fit again, and looking forward to more exploring. Japan here I come!
Alison
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I’m glad to hear that.
Enjoy Japan!
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happy travels
at the speed
which brings
you joy 🙂
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Thank you David
for your good wishes
and gentle reminder
to pace myself
and to listen to the heart
from whence the
joy will arise.
Alison xo
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You two are amazing!! You will have a great time and manage quite well on your own. I have no doubt. Some great posts ahead.
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Thanks Darlene. I’m starting to feel that nervous anticipation that is a lot more about excitement than fear. And yes, there’ll be plenty of posts.
Alison
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Oh Alison I am delighted to hear you are still going and don’t be afraid!!! Traveling solo will be an amazing life changing growing experience! You will do great and learn so much about yourself again! I am sure Don wishes he could go but I know you will have a fantastic time! So excited for you!
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Thanks so much Nicole. I do agree that travelling solo is likely to be life changing. I know it will change me, I just don’t know in what ways. That’s to be discovered. Don does wish he could go, but we both understand that this journey is for me, for whatever reasons. I’m pretty excited too!
Alison
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I think what I love about solo travel is that it is time to get to know myself again. I am always so busy being a mother and wife that sometimes I forget about me! So that is what I enjoy and also it forces me to get out there. 🙂
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Hello Alison,
The day after I read of your trepidation about visiting Japan alone I heard a radio broadcast of “Travels with Rick Steves” on which he had three female guests discussing solo travel. One of them was Sarah Murdoch who apparently blogs about that subject on AdventuresWithSarah.net
The episode was Program #517, release date 3/10/2018
It’s available as a podcast on Rick Steves’ website.
Also on the show was Teresa Bruce, author of “The Drive” about a road trip from Oregon to Bolivia that she made as a child with her parents (in a homemade caravan) and repeated 30 years later with her own family. I mention this only because it’s worth hearing about (eye-opening and heartwarming) if you happen to tune in.
I’m glad so many people wrote to allay your worries about the language barrier. It has been my experience in other countries that for help in English you turn to the young.
Now, a Japanese proverb to speed you on your way:
The Day you Decide to do it is your Lucky Day
~~~ Martha (Portland, Oregon)
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Hi Martha, how lovely to hear from you! Thank you for this info – I’ll definitely follow up on it. I’ve been getting so much help that my fears are falling away, especially now that I have lined up a guide for my first day in Tokyo. I’ve never had any fears about communicating before, in more than 30 countries, and have always managed so I don’t know why it hit me so hard this time. But then I always had Don with me and we’d muddle through together. Right now I’m actually more concerned about being fit enough for the China trip. I like your Japanese proverb. I do feel very lucky.
I hope you are well, and that life is good.
Alison
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I always enjoy reading your blog and can’t wait to see what’s in store for both of you as you enter this new chapter in your lives. I look forward to hearing about your respective adventures!
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Thank you so much. It does definitely feel like a new chapter, and I’ll be posting about all the new adventures. Japan starts to feel exciting!
Alison
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So pleased to hear of your recovery, you have a lot of adventures ahead of you now. I wonder how China will compare with the China I experienced in 1990, most people in Mao suits and riding bikes, not many cars around. I think it will be a totally different country, but I bet one thing isn’t changed the people were so friendly. The great wall is a challenge, very steep in parts, but you can always just walk a short way then just wait for the group to come back and gaze in wonder at the scenery. Wishing you safe and happy travels I will look forward to following along. Hope Don is ok
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Thanks so much pommepal. I imagine China will be quite different now with all the development over the past couple of decades. I was last in China in 1978! I’m expecting something very different.
I don’t mind steep. I like uphill better than downhill and have some long steep uphill sections in the hike I do most days so I should be okay. There’s no way I’m going for a short walk and missing out on all the rest of hiking the wall 🙂
Don is really just fine. Day to day the issue is not a problem at all and could remain that way, and even heal itself. He just felt it was too big a risk to travel with it unresolved.
Alison
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I’m a recent follower…not far away, outside Seattle…same age as you and one who dreamed about travel but didn’t manage to do very much until more recently. Congratulations for being on such a positive trajectory re physical and emotional barriers. Solo travel does have intense rewards…I remember a trip to Costa Rica alone, the ups and downs…but the memories are very positive overall. I think the whole experience becomes intensified when you don’t have your partner there to share it all with. That is of course, for better and worse. 😉 I look forward to your trip reports…hoping to get to China myself at some point. p.s. Be sure to get some practice with that lens, which you must have just gotten. 🙂
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Thanks so much Lynn. I think you really nailed it saying the whole experience will become intensified not having Don with me. I’ve allayed my fears enough that now I’m really looking forward to it. There’s a freedom in travelling solo. I have a new camera, and two new lenses – so lots of practice needed!
I commented on your blog a while back, on the post of photos through conservatory windows. My comment is still awaiting moderation. Perhaps you’ll fin it in your spam folder.
Alison
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Oh, so sorry! I’ll look…and thank you. (And yes, freedom!)
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Alas, I emptied everything last week, it’s not there. Hopefully that won’t happen next time!
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I’ll repost it and see if you get it.
A.
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