5-9 March 2015. New Zealand doesn’t have historical buildings dating back hundreds of years, or ancient ruins dating back thousands. It doesn’t have exotic wild animals and birds like Africa, the Amazon and Australia. It’s not laden with must-see museums of the world’s great treasures like New York or London or Paris. What it does have is spectacular scenery and some of the best hiking in the world. Tramping they call it. In some countries it’s called trekking, we’ve always called it hiking, but in New Zealand it’s tramping and oh there are some magnificent places to tramp. It’s one of the great things to do in New Zealand.
There’s the four-day Kepler Track, the four-day Milford Track, the three-day Routeburn Track, the five-day Heaphy Track, and the one-day Tongariro Crossing, to name a handful of hundreds. We knew we weren’t fit enough to tackle even the nineteen kilometres of Tongariro, but I wanted to do something. From Wanaka we could drive to the beginning of the Rob Roy Track in Mount Aspiring National Park. A ten kilometre, three-to-four hour hike, in beautiful alpine mountain country. Now that we could do.
Setting out early from Wanaka we discover that even getting to the beginning of the track is not what we thought. We are told it will take an hour, but as we drive, the paved road gives way to rough gravel, and there are several times that rivers cross the road. At each ford we drive carefully through the water hoping it’s shallow enough for our little rental car. Slowly carefully we make it through each one as we drive through the picturesque Matukituki Valley.
Eventually, not more than five or six kilometres from the beginning of the track we come to a ford that looks too deep. We decide not to risk it and turn back.
On the way we pass a Red deer antler farm. According to WebMD deer antler contains substances that help cells grow. Their list of ailments that it can help alleviate leaves me breathless. And sceptical. Its use in China can be traced back as far as 100BC, and it is a common ingredient in Chinese tonics. New Zealand is the world’s largest producer.
Most temperate-zone deer species shed and regrow new antlers every year. By the time they shed them, usually in the late fall, they are nothing but dried bone, however during the growth stage the antlers are covered in a soft skin called velvet which supplies oxygen and nutrients to the growing bone. This velvet stage of growth is treasured for its nutrient value. It is during this time that the antlers are removed under anesthetic. At least that’s how it’s done in New Zealand where deer antler farming is strictly controlled. Presumably the stumps later drop off and the following spring antler growth begins again.
And of course we see sheep. Everywhere we go there are sheep. Travel tales of New Zealand couldn’t possibly be complete without a mention of sheep. The ratio of sheep to people used to be twenty-two to one. Now it’s down to “only” seven to one. Four and a half million people and thirty-one million sheep.
Back nearer to Wanaka we find the Rocky Mountain and Diamond Lake trail which gives us all we are looking for: a pretty lake, a steep rugged mountain to climb, and glorious views. It’s not the Rob Roy Track but it’ll do. It’ll do nicely.
It is raining. We’ve been in New Zealand for two weeks and this is the first day of real rain. We’ve had grey days, and a rainy day in Dunedin but didn’t care because we didn’t want to go out anyway. But this is the day we drive from Wanaka to Franz Josef across the Haast Pass with its renowned spectacular scenery, and it’s raining. Not just raining. Bucketing down. I am grumpy and disappointed. After a little venting I get over it, which leaves me free to enjoy the day as it is. Suddenly the journey seems more exciting. The road is narrow and winding, frequently with high rock walls on one side and a sheer drop on the other. There are single-lane bridges to be negotiated. We see the remains of some serious rockslides and are grateful we don’t encounter any. We see torrential waterfalls swollen by the rain. We are right inside the clouds, and the rain comes so hard the windshield wipers are of little use. We are reminded of the fragility of life. We travel slowly. We have no reason to stop.
By the time we get to Franz Josef the rain has ended and the sky is clear. We check into the hostel and set out to hike up to Franz Josef Glacier. As we walk the mountains come out to play, the clouds dance with the mountains, and sunlight graces everything we see.
We hike all the way up to the face of the glacier
passing waterfalls made all the more resplendent from the rain.
The next day, sunny again, we hike through the rich fecund New Zealand rainforest where the trees are thick with dripping moss,
to Callery Gorge.
On the way, one of the most beautiful, serendipitous moments of our time in New Zealand: a young wild chamois buck comes out of the forest, stands for a moment in the middle of the path staring at us, then disappears again into the forest. It feels like magic.
The chamois is a goat-antelope native to the mountains of Europe. It was introduced to New Zealand in the early 1900’s as a gift from Emperor Franz Josef I of Austria in exchange for ferns, rare birds and lizards. The chamois gradually spread over the South Island. They are now regarded as a pest due to their destruction of native alpine flora, and hunting them is unrestricted.
Another sunny day. The weather is exceptional considering we are in one of the rainiest places on earth. We drive from Franz Josef to Greymouth passing Mt. Cook along the way.
We hear about a driftwood sculpture competition in Hokitika but are warned that the sculptures have been much damaged by the recent storm, the outer edge of Tropical Cyclone Pam which had devastated Vanuatu. We head down to the beach to see the sculptures. First, to our surprise, we see this giant sculpture of the town’s name. A giant hello! A driftwood welcome for drifters.
We wander along the beach looking at the sculptures and are at once delighted and disappointed. Delighted by the whimsy and creativity, disappointed by the damage the storm has done. Only a few sculptures remain intact, the rest broken and scattered along the debris-strewn beach. But those that remain are fabulous, igniting a delight as I run from one to the next looking for the best that remain, like this deer,
with its curious face.
The sea is still high and wild from the storm, tumultuous waves pounding the shore,
but we find a rabbit still riding its horse
and a suspension of stars.
The relentless waves continue to crash in.
Children taunt the waves in a game of catch-me-if-you-can, trying to outrun them, and we see one nearly sucked into the maw of the sea, hear a mother’s cries, and see the child barely escaping in time,
but as we stand on the beach talking to a fellow traveler the waves come further and further in until there is no beach left at all.
It is time to go. We drive on to the aptly named Greymouth in time to catch the sunset down by the shore,
and later from the parking lot of the supermarket.
Next post: Pancake rocks, Abel Tasman National Park, and a night market in Wellington.
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2015.
These photographs were absolutely stunning.
UBSkyLine.com
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Thank you so much. Glad you enjoyed them. Your magazine looks very interesting!
Alison
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Once again, you have captured the beauty of New Zealand, Alison. And the sculptures, fascinating and fun. For many years (I don’t know if they still do), a talented group of artists used to create driftwood sculptures on the mudflats of the San Francisco Bay near Berkeley. You never knew what would appear next. –Curt
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Thanks Curt. I must say I’m very pleased with this lot of photos, especially the landscape ones. Perhaps I can even say they are good enough 🙂
The Hokitika sculptures were a wonderful surprise.
I’d love to see the SF sculptures. I imagine there would be some really amazing work there. I think one day we may actually venture down south of the border and explore your beautiful country further. I can probably name on one hand (well maybe one and a half) the number of states I’ve been to.
Alison
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They are “good enough.” 🙂 As for the states, Peggy and I have been to all 50, and each has something different and worthwhile to see. Of course this doesn’t mean it’s all wonderful… –Curt
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Gorgeous photos of a beautiful country.
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Thanks so much Paulette. I’m so glad you enjoyed them. It is indeed a beautiful country!
Alison
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One of my most favorite places Alison and you did it justice my friend. Beautiful~
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Thanks Cindy. It’s one of our favourite places too. So much beauty. As I said to Curt, I think I can admit these photos are good enough 🙂
Alison
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Really, really beautiful, Alison. The way you are able to get these shots of wildlife that you just happen across always amazes me. I picture you with a holster and a fresh Nikon on each hip, ready to blaze away… 🙂 Either that or Don has managed to mount a 20 gigawatt portable sun to the top of the rental car, and when he presses the button everything with a pulse within a two mile radius freezes for twenty seconds and inexplicably hears Mozart, before finally their vision returns, the music fades, and they wander off realizing they haven’t actually migrated across the void between worlds.
It would have been fun to go back to the rental agency and get a four-wheel drive something-or-other with a snorkel so you could go back and wade that last river… Who drove across the rivers you did cross? You… or Don…? 🙂
Michael
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Thank you so much Michael. It is a really beautiful place. Quite extraordinary really to find so much beauty in such a small country and we haven’t even gotten to the North Island yet. NZ makes me think of Slartibartfast. Or God, as in “Good job, God!”
Panasonic, not Nikon 🙂 One on each hip ready to fire. Oh if only you could see the photos that didn’t turn out. A perfect shot of a fantail (native bird) with its tail up and fanned out and I got the shot but the camera was on the wrong settings 😦
Actually you guessed our secret. Don did have that 20 gig portable sun and everything you said happened every time. We of course, occasionally made a wrong turn and migrated across the void between worlds a time or too, but Mozart’s lilting melodies led us back home each time.
Don drove across the fords, but I was driving the Haast Pass when the top speed of the wipers was no match for the rain. Fun times.
Alison
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Lovely photos! My daughter has hiked in NZ and I am going to share this with her. Cheers!
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Thank you so much Bela. I’m glad you enjoyed them. And thank you for sharing. Maybe the photos will bring back some nice memories for your daughter
Alison
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They did! She wrote write away to say what magic NZ holds.
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Ohgosh, wow. I had a busy day. She wrote ‘right’ away! Losing my edge, for sure 😉 Aloha.
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❤ ❤ ❤
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Thank you ❤ ❤ ❤
Alison
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Wow! What gorgeous country, and all of your photos are potential postcards or travel-blog photos! 🙂
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Wait…that didn’t come out right! I mean that all your photos are potential award winning photos! LOL.
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Thank you so much Aphrodite. LOL I hope they’re good for all three – postcards, travel blogs, and winning awards! That would be fun. There’s a couple I might send to NatGeo.
Did you know I wrote a post about Aphrodite? I think I like your interpretation of Aphrodite a little better.
Alison
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Wow! I have it up on the screen…great photos! (I would have thought so by now.) Now to read all the juicy tidbits. 🙂 Thank-you for sharing.
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Just stunning, I love those sculptures, or what is left.
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Thank you so much Carly. New Zealand is an amazingly beautiful place. I was a bit disappointed that we didn’t get to see the sculptures before the wind, rain, and waves had thrashed them, but was thrilled with what we did see – *so* creative!
Alison
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Sorry I’ll miss seeing you two at Salmonberry! One of my friends was hiking in NZ and set out early before he heard the trail was closed due to high winds. He literally was almost blown off the mountain and the staffer at the mountain hut was amazed to see him when he arrived.
Love, Judy
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Hi Judy. Wow your friend sounds very lucky to have made it through to the hut. Must have been some wind!
Sorry you can’t make it to Salmonberry. Perhaps the winter dance. I think we’ll be around for that one too.
Love, Alison
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Just wow! Beautiful photography. Thanks for taking us along on the trip.
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Thanks so much Angeline, and it’s lovely to have you along!
Alison
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so happy there was enough
energy & film to share the experience
& exotic, grand beauty. 🙂
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enough of everything 🙂
energy, digital limitlessness,
self-confidence, exotic
jaw-dropping beauty
of New Zealand.
Love sharing ❤
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Hi Alison – this is Stunning! You both had an amazing time. Your photos inspired me to add New Zealand to my Travel Bucket List. I am curious, have you hiked in a more beautiful place?
– Ruta
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Thank you so much Ruta, I’m glad you enjoyed the post. New Zealand is one of the most beautiful countries we have been to and definitely worth visiting. I have hiked in places in the far north of BC, Canada that compare in beauty, and I will never forget the beauty of Grindelwalt in Switzerland, and the mountains down in Patagonia, and I’m sure there are many other places. The thing with NZ is that it is a small country and there is a huge variety of landscapes so you never know what will come next. So much packed into a tiny space.
Alison
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Thanks guys, so wonderful post.
I’d love to go hiking there on the mountains and rainforest
and your images are just amazing, I could almost feel like I’m there already 🙂
To me this would be a perfect hike,
the lakes, rivers, waterfalls,
it looks like I can even fulfill my mountain climbing dream there.
Nothing extreme but mountains I could conquer.
I wish you the most amazing journeys,
love and light,
Marko
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Thanks Marko, it’s wonderful that you almost felt like you were there. It was a beautiful hike, one of several we did, and you can definitely go mountain climbing in NZ.
We’ve not forgotten your questions! Coming very soon.
Alison
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Fifty shades of glorious green! Stunning photos and your narrative makes me long to visit this amazing country. Anita
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Thanks so much Anita. Yes! Fifty shades of glorious green. What a wonderful way to express it. New Zealand is well worth exploring!
Alison
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Your stuff–photos and lyrics–just keep getting better and better all the time. The story kept me moving along, down the beach, across the rivers. Loved it, every word.
Were the rivers all that shade of blue or green or whatever, or is it post-edit stuff bringing out the color? Someone above marveled at your luck or ability to find wild life. I think you go out “expecting” those animals to show, and so they do, and somehow, you have your camera ready. I usually mess up those greatest-shot moments.
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Thank you, thank you. I think now I could have put a lot more into the story of the kids playing tag with the waves. The one kid was perched on a rock when a giant wave all but washed over him. Scary. For him and for his mom. I’ve felt before that I’ve left out, or not expanded enough, on some good stories. Note to self: pay more attention to that.
I have done post-edit on every photo, and yes it really is that beautiful.
I think we have miracles with wildlife. At the same time for every serendipitous shot I get there are several that didn’t work out – see above reply to Michael.
Alison
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Yup…miracles with wild life, I’m sure. And I’m not sure you need more story. You take us along for the ride every time! We are right there with you two.
One thing…did you snap the photo in HD or do you apply that in post edit? Like the one of the kid running, or the waves, or the deer
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Gorgeous photos Alison! 🙂
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Thanks so much Urska. I’m glad you enjoyed them.
Alison
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beautiful..!!
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Thanks Madhu. New Zealand is simply endless beauty. It’s an amazing place.
Alison
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Thanks for sharing your experience, Alison! You took me on a journey on the other side of the world and I loved it. The creativity of the driftwood sculptures was my favorite part! 🙂
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Thank so much Rebecca. Lovely to have you along! We loved the driftwood sculptures too. I wish we could have seen them before they were half destroyed. Pout 🙂
Alison
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Such beautiful photos and stories as always.
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Thank you so much Ros. I’m glad you enjoyed this little slice of New Zealand. Much more to come!
Alison
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Stunning photos! I loved learning about the deer antlers. Beautiful post. Felt like packing my bags and heading to NZ right away 🙂
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Thank you so much, I’m glad you enjoyed it. NZ id definitely worth visiting.
Alison
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This brings back so many wonderful memories! With three kids along, we stopped at many a sheep farm and still chuckle at our son’s silly but creative “Sheep News” broadcasts from various barns and fields. We climbed up and along the Franz Josef Glacier in bright yellow rain slickers in the dripping rain, and we took in all that gorgeous scenery from our rented van and, later, the TranzAlpine train from Greymouth back to Christchurch. Oh, how I’d love to go back! Your photos and stories are the next best thing!
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Sounds like you had a fabulous trip. I bet the “sheep news” was pretty funny 🙂
We were so lucky to see Franz Josef in clear weather.
We thought it would be nice to take a train for some of the journey, but ended up renting a car and driving everywhere.
Alison
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Ah, gorgeous! Those glacier photographs are my favourite.
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Thanks Lana. Yeah, NZ sure is gorgeous.
Alison
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Alison your photos are just getting better and better! New Zealand is really an eyeful. This is making me want to go back, like now!
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Thanks Silk. I’m pretty pleased with this lot. NZ is amazing eh?!
Alison
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Such beautiful photos and you were lucky to have those cascading waterfalls after the rain, they were only a trickle when we passed through. That area must be the most scenic of all and there is some serious competition for that accolade in NZ.
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Thanks pommepal. The waterfalls were so full, like torrents right at the side of the road. It was a bit scary at times. That whole southwestern part of NZ is so spectacular.
Alison
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Amazing, inspiring, gorgeous photos. I will would love to do some of the hikes you mentioned, but might need to get a bit fitter first, since at the moment even a small hill leaves me gasping for breath. I loved the driftwood sculptures, such a shame many have been blown away and destroyed.
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Thank you so much Gilda. We’re reasonably fit, certainly fit enough to get up a decent sized hill anyway. We pace ourselves, and we both actually prefer uphill rather than downhill.
We also loved the driftwood sculptures, what was left of them anyway – very creative and whimsical.
Alison
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wonderful narrative and great photos! New Zealand is on my “to visit” list, and reading this post seals the deal! 🙂
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Thank you so much. Do visit New Zealand. It’s quite wonderful!
Alison
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they are the friendliest country on earth! 😀
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Fantastic photos of a magical land. Thanks so much for them I will enjoy looking at them many times.
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Thanks so much Eileen. I’m glad you enjoyed this little glimpse of the lovely NZ.
Alison
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Reblogged this on Laughter: Carbonated Grace and commented:
These photos of New Zealand make me so hungry to see it myself! I’m just so glad that my dad got to experience it before he died. He said it was his idea of heaven and I can see why.
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Thank you for the reblog. I do hope you get to see NZ for yourself one day!
Alison
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Alison and Don…I taught at the Graduate School of Management in the University of Adelaide in 1993;we went fr a visit to NZ but just went to the north island….seems like we goofed!
David and Diane
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Hi David and Diane, I think you’d better plan a return trip to New Zealand! The South island is extraordinary. Beautiful everywhere you go.
Alison
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Wooo! Breathtaking photos!
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Thank you so much. New Zealand is amazing.
Alison
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Beautiful photos, Alison! We loved New Zealand.
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Thanks so much Naomi. We too loved NZ.
Alison
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Hi Alison,
I am spending part of Canada Day catching up on my reading, including your blog. It feels to me that your photography keeps getting better and better. The blues in the mountain photos, both water and sky are amazing. The ones leading up to including the glacier reminded me of BC.
Thanks so much for sharing.
Cheers,
David
>
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Thank you so much David. I must say I was pleased with these photos. The scenery is incredibly beautiful in NZ.
Alison
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Hi Alison, I managed to make another comment disappear by starting to type too soon. What can I say. Anyway thanks for your good words on my time off. See you in September. –Curt
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Be still my beating heart! If this isn’t a reason to go on living (Don) I don’t know what is! I can feel my very soul expanding as I look at these photos. The deer sculpture…the waves… all of it, wild and free! I knew nothing of deer antler farming, or that it existed. And tramping! I was born to tramp 🙂 🙂
Just a week or two ago I featured Franz Josef and the glazier in my shared walks (I think it was from Colibrist). She was playing hide and seek with the mountain. What an amazing life! Thank you, Alison.
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Thank you Jo. Yes, I think Don understands nature and beauty now in a new way. We’ve just come back from a 5 day retreat with our spiritual community of many years and feel very full of love and gratitude.
I think we too were born to tramp 🙂
I tried in vain to find your Franz Josef post 😦
Yes, we do have an amazing life. We are keenly aware of how blessed we are.
Alison
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This is the one I was thinking of, and the one that succeeds it features an ice blue glacier. Laia is on a round the world trip. 🙂 https://colibrist.wordpress.com/2015/06/13/franz-josef-glacier-new-zealand/
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These photos are incredible! They look like paintings
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Thanks so much Mo. New Zealand is so very beautiful, everywhere we went it was gorgeous.
Alison
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