29 Nov – 4 Dec 2014. We are at our gate in the Honolulu airport. It is after midnight as we wait for our delayed flight to Samoa. The concourse is busy with people of all ages, reading, watching movies on their various electronic devices, sleeping. The children, of course, are wide-awake and full of energy. They see who can jump highest and furthest from a tiered concrete planter. Having no frontal lobes they are completely fearless. We try to pretend we are not tired.
But back to the beginning: five days earlier, after our flight from Vancouver, we finally arrived at our hotel in Honolulu at about 11pm local time. There was nowhere for the shuttle to pull up right in front of the hotel, but we appreciated that the shuttle driver carried all our bags to the hotel entrance. He wished us welcome to Hawaii and left us. At the bottom of a flight of stairs. Well it was very clear Don was not carrying anything up those stairs, and I knew even for me it would be a slow struggle. Suddenly an angel appeared. How does that happen? Literally out of nowhere, as far as we could tell, there was a teenage boy grabbing a bag in each hand, a total of about 26 kilos, and almost running up the stairs with them. I started slowly lifting one of the other bags up step by step. I’d barely made the second step when there he was again, grabbing the remaining two bags and running up with them. At the top he deposited them and raced away down the stairs before we could even say thank you, let alone give him a tip. We thought he worked for the hotel, but no, he disappeared into the night never to be seen again. A sweet beginning.
Gorgeous golden-sand beaches, blue water, blue skies, palm trees, tropical warmth. How can you not love it even though we are surrounded by high-rise hotels and apartments? Even though all we’ve found to eat so far has been American strip-mall food not quite on a par with Denny’s, an American family restaurant chain with nothing of the contemporary finesse of White Spot, a Canadian family restaurant chain, which offers a flat bread with caramelized onions, goat cheese, arugula and a drizzle of balsamic and other more creative meals alongside their hamburgers. No, all we’ve found so far has been your standard reubens, turkey clubs, hamburgers and BLT’s, at best on “whole wheat”, which is nothing more than white bread with food colouring. Apparently asking for a BLT with cheese instead of bacon is asking for too much. Sigh. For breakfast I have a piece of coloured-white-bread toast with overcooked scrambled eggs a significant portion of which are grey. Hmmmmm. Food-wise it has not been a good beginning but I have no doubt we’ll get our bearings and find better alternatives as our stay progresses. And anyway who cares? Gorgeous golden-sand beaches, blue water, blue skies, palm trees, tropical warmth. What’s not to love?
Oahu is one of the smaller islands of Hawaii, but the most populated with the city of Honolulu, and other towns. Whatever the Polynesian cultural origins of these islands, make no mistake, Honolulu is a big American city, very much like big American cities in hot climates on the mainland. It’s LA in the middle of the Pacific. Whatever the Polynesian cultural origins of the island of Oahu, there’s not much left of it except a sanitized homogenized standardized performance version created for the enjoyment of tourists. The advertisements call out to you to Discover a Different Culture but we know it’s just a show and the real culture has long ago been subsumed first by missionaries in the 1800’s, then the gradual influence of the west, and finally by modern America.
Looking towards the marina and downtown Honolulu from our hotel.
Don still has a cold so I walk alone down to the waterfront and along Kahanamoku Beach, Fort Derussy Beach, and Waikiki Beach. We do the same walk together the next day, finally stopping at the outdoor beachside restaurant at the Moana Surfrider Resort for Plantation Iced Tea (meaning laced with pineapple juice) and some very mellow live music – a little country, a little blues, a little rock ‘n’ roll, a little relaxing into presence, a little Hawaii-at-the-beach vibe settling in.
Near the marina, a Hawaiian Zebra Dove,
and a parrot in the grass by the lagoon.
Dinner that night was average Japanese food in a small dead mall with a screaming baby. Tripadvisor is not infallible.
Wanting to discover more of Hawaii than the beach scene we take a bus to Chinatown. As Chinatowns go it’s not the most fascinating I’ve ever been to. Vancouver’s is bigger, less seedy, and more interesting, but it was worth the visit if only to get away from tourist central.
Longans and rambutans
Walking back to the bus stop via a different route we find a park full of banyan trees, and stop to stare, fascinated by the way the roots grow down from the branches.
Rain rain rain. All day. So our drive to the north shore was sadly somewhat dampened. The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing championships were taking place at Sunset Beach and we were looking forward to watching some of it. On a sunny day, or even just a non-rainy day, we probably would have sat for several hours watching some of the best surfers in the world ride the huge waves. As it was we stopped by a couple of times in our journeying around the north end of the island and it seemed each time we got in the car to drive somewhere the rain stopped, but as soon as we stopped the rain started up again. Just couldn’t time it right. We did however get out and walk a bit by the sea at Pūpūkea Beach and a couple of other locations.
Oahu’s wild north shore:
The best thing about the day was the food. Died-and-gone-to-heaven-food. Swoon-worthy food. Food to write home about.
On the way north we stopped at the Dole Plantation “fairground” (tourist shop, train rides, plantation tours) specifically to try the pineapple ice cream. We’d met a man on the flight over who’d raved about it. And he was not wrong. It rates among the best ice cream I’ve ever eaten. A huge cupful of soft-serve ice cream with an authentic pineapple flavour. The heavenly taste of Hawaii. Best ever!
Later we went to Giovanni’s famous Shrimp Truck at Kahuku.
Giovanni’s serves only four dishes – garlic scampi with rice, prawns with lemon butter and rice, hot and spicy prawns with rice, and a jumbo garlic hot dog with rice. That’s it. Don and I shared the scampi and the lemon butter prawns and it was one of the best meals on the road. I’m not much of a foodie, and don’t often write about meals, but this was definitely one of the standouts.
This is where we ate, next to the white van,
and this is what we ate – simple and perfectly prepared.
That evening we found Genki Sushi at the giant Ala Moana Mall where we ate delicious sushi from a conveyor belt two nights in a row. The mall is actually listed as a tourist attraction, as in one of the “things to do” while in Honolulu. I am bewildered by the idea that shopping is actually considered a hobby, and puzzled that anyone would want to go to a mall for anything other than necessities, especially while on a tropical vacation, but we did actually shop there. The most hilarious thing about our chaotic departure from Vancouver? Don forgot his (much loathed) swimsuit. So we went there to get him a new one.
Beyond Honolulu we found a more Hawaiian Hawaii. No longer in a big city that could be just about anywhere in America, we found, despite the rain, and weather cooler than we expected, a kind of looseness, and a feeling of relaxation that seems to come with a tropical climate and island life.
Next post: Our second day touring the island – more beaches and a Buddhist temple.
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2015.
Hello you two wonderful nomads! Think of you often! We bought a manufactured home and working various jobs to support it. We long to travel again! Hopefully soon. LOVE THE BLOG!!! Wishing you many adventures, good health and lots of joy.
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Hi Lily,
Lovely to hear from you and to know that you’re managing to stay afloat. We’ve just landed in Canberra, Australia after spending 17 days island-hopping across the Pacific -Hawaii, Samoa and Fiji – no jet lag for us this time around!
Many thanks for all your good wishes and hope that you can go travelling soon.
Love and big hugs,
Don and Alison
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I love reading your impressions and grinned at the “mall shopping hobby.” You’re not alone being mystified by this. I can shop at home. 🙂
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Thanks so much Jennifer. I just avoid shopping at all. Well one can’t avoid it totally obviously, and sometimes it’s great fun. But shopping as a hobby? That’s mystifying to me.
Alison
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thank you for this lift – this taste of adventure at the end of my day. The two of you are an inspiration – I often think of you and your courage. Happy Trails…
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Hi Grace,
So glad that you’re enjoying our travels and adventures and thanks for your good wishes. We wouldn’t be doing anything else than this.
Big hugs,
Don and Alison
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The replication of pre-manufactured culture and pre-cooked cuisine is somewhat dizzying. As I read this I felt a sense of something being missing, that you hadn’t found yet, like there was a normalcy plastered over the heart of the place and on the first day, absent your bearings, that is what you had to contend with. Freshly arrived, worn from the journey, you had to wade through the awkward cohabitation of paradise and modernity, until you sneak beneath their superficial interface. I love how the help arrived to schlep the luggage up the stairs. A hint of things to come perhaps…? 🙂
The photo of Honolulu with the clouds rolling in was great.
Michael
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Yes, there was definitely something missing. Exactly what you said – the heart of the place. We began to sneak beneath the superficial interface, and will dive deeper when we return in May. The help with the luggage kind of bewildered us (in a good way) – so unexpected, and all over in a second, and miraculous. A fabulous beginning.
Thanks re the photo 🙂
Alison
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woo hoo! safe travels! sounds awesome!
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Thanks Cindy. It’s good to be on the road again.
Alison xox
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SO glad you found The Moana Surfrider, and Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck! The culture is there, just not in Waikiki or the Ala Moana Mall 🙂
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We return in May and will do better I’m sure. Some other commenters have given us some suggestions to follow up on. I so wished we could have watched the surfing 😦 but it was not to be. The Ala Moana for sushi was an inexpensive convenience – and it was really good.
Alison
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I wish to be there one to time in my life. 🙂 let’s go Hawaii 😉
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I do hope your dream comes true. It is a beautiful place. Yes! Let’s go Hawaii 🙂
Alison
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I’ve felt strange, strong attraction towards Hawaii since I was a kid (perhaps I lived there in my previous life?) and this post made me want to go visit even more!
I only recently discovered your blog and read your bio just now – I must say I’m truly inspired by your story. I love the pictures and the stories you write. You definitely got a new follower! I’m a new travel blogger myself (http://alwaysabroad.co, if you want to check it out), wishing that I’ll become as good as you one day! 🙂 Keep it up!
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Your blog’s looking really good! And thanks for the follow.
I hope you get to visit Hawaii, especially since you feel such a strong connection to it. When you do get there you’ll probably feel as if you’ve come home, so you better get planning!
Alison
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Thank you! I’ll definitely visit one day!
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Damn my frontal lobes.
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Yes, really. Watching those kids was kinda terrifying, but wait til you see where we went swimming in Samoa. Frontal lobes be damned!
Alison
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We spent a week on the Big Island of Hawaii and found it to be more Hawaiian. Still Hawaii is a great place to be in the winter. The kindness of strangers is always amazing. Have fun!
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I have heard from several sources that the other islands, especially the Big Island, are really wonderful, more laid back and closer to their roots. Perhaps another time we’ll go exploring there. And despite my whining 🙂 we did have fun there, and even more fun in Samoa and Fiji as we got our travel legs back.
Sounds like you’re having an amazing time!
Alison
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This is a really fascinating post. This is not only a post but also a life style as well as an attitude toward life. It is really good!
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Thank you so much zhianxu. I’m glad you found it interesting.
Alison
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While the missionaries did their best to wipe out native Hawaiian culture, it is still there. What I love about Hawaii is the rich stew of cultures–Polynesian, Japanese, Chinese, New England missionaries, Portuguese, Greek–evolving together to create a truly unique culture that you find today.
So sorry to hear that you had trouble finding good food in Honolulu-it has amazing places to eat. Even the hotel restaurants generally offer wonderful salads with local greens, fruits, nuts, and fish–to die for. Maybe next time! I’m biased–Oahu’s North Shore (Haleiwa in particular) is one of my favorite places in the world.
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I think our biggest problems were lack of time, and lack of energy, especially the first couple of days as we both still had colds, and were still slowly rediscovering ‘travelling mode’ after having been in one familiar place for 6 months. We return to Oahu in May and will discover more then I’m sure. Also at night we were admittedly lazy – sushi at Genkos was yummy, close, and inexpensive 🙂
Alison
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I am sorry you didn’t have the experience you were looking for. Though Waikiki has become more generic even since I started going in 2003, there IS MUCH culture if you know where to look. The Outrigger Reef and Outrigger Waikiki have amazing Hawaiian musicians, such as Na Hoku Hanohano Award winners Maunalua, Weldon Kekauoha and Kuana Torres Kahele, Darren Benitez and Sean Na’Auao. They are the standard bearers of the new Hawaiian. Or head up to Kona Brewing Company in Hawaii Kai Sundays for the legendary Ledward Ka’apana. As for food, my FAVORITE breakfast is up in Hale’iwa at the Cafe Hale’iwa, which has the best Huevos Rancheros. Roy’s has great food, but the original location in Hawaii Kai might be less touristy than the Waikiki spot.The Halekulani Hotel has excellent food you can eat on the patio while watching the great Kanoe Miller dance hula while enjoying the best Diamond Head sunset view. The Royal has very good food as well. For cheaper fare, try some of the food trucks around, especially at the various “Eat the Street” events. Just as New Yorkers don’t eat at tourist traps, the locals there don’t, either. I hope you have a better experience next trip. Hint- ASK THE LOCALS!
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Thank you so much for this list of places to go! We return in May and will be sure to check out at least some of them. This time it was too rushed, and we lacked energy. Next time will be even shorter, and we already have a list of places to go, but I’m sure we can fit it all in. Saving the best til last 🙂
Ask the locals? Gosh, anyone would think we were new to travelling 🙂
Alison
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PS Forgot to say we did ask the locals and were directed to the worse-than-Denny’s breakfast place. Guess it doesn’t always work 😦
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Well, yes- On the other hand, people who live there eat at McDonald’s and all those places too. But they usually know the good spots. Me, I generally only use eating as a vehicle to see music. Duke’s (Outrigger Waikiki) has a pretty nice Ahi poke, the Halekulani has a very nice (but pricey) Monchong, and the best Mai Tai on the planet, IMO. Also, if you need a reasonable place to stay, my brother has a condotel in the Island Colony. That is on Seaside Ave & Ala Wai- perfectly placed mid-Waikiki, on the 22nd floor. Let me know if you are interested. And NO STAIRS, haha. The building has a lovely pool and laundry facilities.
Oh, btw- I forgot to mention, I am a friend of Ruth Rosenberg’s!
Aloha
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Okay, Dukes is on the list! Is Outrigger (Waikiki) the same as the Outrigger Reef that others have mentioned? Also I should say we’re not foodies at all, and don’t go searching for ‘the’ places to eat. We just want something better than McDonalds, and were very happy with the sushi we found at Genkos. But with so many recommendations I think we’d better try the Outrigger.
The condotel sounds intriguing, and Waikiki would be convenient seeing as we want to go to Ko Oloni in one direction and Hanauma Bay in the other. We only have 2 and a half days (in May) but it sounds like we’re going to pack a lot into it, unlike the previous 5 days we just spent there.
Say hi to Ruth for me! What a great connection.
Thanks for your help. I’ll email you re the condo on the off chance your brother would rent it for only 3 nights.
Alison
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Good to see you two out and about again. 🙂 I spent a week in Honolulu once. I turned forty there and was in the midst of a mid-life crisis. I was alone and wandered about aimlessly, but I enjoyed myself. It certainly isn’t my favorite Hawaii location, however. Too many people considering what I like about the islands. Over the years, I have visited most of the Islands and checked out some of the more remote places. –Curt
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Oh Curt, it is so good to be out and about again. Due to spotty and expensive internet once we left Hawaii I’ve not been able to read anyone’s new posts – hope to catch up in the next little while.
I’d love to check out some of the more remote locations, but it was just not on the itinerary this time. So much world to see, so little time. Sigh. 🙂
Alison
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I agree. Triple sigh. 🙂 –Curt
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Since you are going to be back in May, I second Adrienne’s recommendations. The Outrigger Reef brings in wonderful Hawaiian musicians and the salads, seafood chowder, and Ahi Carpaccio at their Ocean House restaurant are delicious, too.
The Cafe Haleiwa’s breakfasts are awesome–along with the laid-back surfer atmosphere. And Opal Thai in Haleiwa is definitely worth a stop. Oahu is way more citified than the other islands (all of which are amazing), but it has a lot to offer.
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Thanks for this. Clearly the Outrigger Reef needs to go on the list. I don’t think we’ll get to Haleiwa. On our list for the return is a rarely visited lagoon at Ko Oloni where we apparently can swim with turtles, Hanauma Bay for the snorkelling, do the Diamond Head hike, and obviously an evening at the Outrigger since it’s been so recommended – all in 2 and a half days. We’ll rent a car from the airport this time, and maybe not even stay in Honolulu. Thanks for your help.
Alison
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And then there is kayaking to the Mokuluas … Just kidding–you have more than enough on your agenda. The Diamond Head hike is really fun–early in the day is cooler and less crowds. Have fun. Looking forward to your Samoa and Fiji posts!
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Paradise! Sorry to read in a comment you started out with a cold, but oh what a great place to get some heavenly vibes to heal with. Looking forward to more. ❤
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Yes it is – such beautiful beaches and tropical plants – the kind we grow so carefully indoors. We’re over our colds, and back in travel mode. Heavenly!
Alison ❤
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Even though you have to sometimes “read between the lines” of Yelp.com reviews, I have had good luck using that to find restaurants that are popular with the locals. Have not used TripAdvisor for restaurants, so don’t know how that compares.
I am in the Seattle area and enjoy following you in your travels. Aloha!
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Thanks for that – I guess we didn’t think of it. We often use Yelp at home, but TripAdvisor on the road. Well try it in future. Glad to hear your enjoying the blog.
Cheers, Alison
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I have thought I might like to go to Hawaii, given that it’s so close. But after reading your post, I’m reconsidering. The high rises everywhere really don’t appeal and I don’t think I want to hunt down culture.
I visited Borocay Island in the Philippines before it had electricity or an airport, and that is my standard for a tropical vacation. I probably won’t find it again, but I think it will be Mexico rather than Hawaii. Or just a beach in Southern California (cheaper airfare).
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Oh please don’t write off Hawaii just because of this. There’s so much more to it than our experience. We’ve heard from friends about the Big Island, and other islands and they sound fabulous. Mexico is good too though.
Alison
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Do you think it’s possible that the shuttle driver actually called someone at the hotel to help you with your suitcases? And maybe that young man rushed back to wherever he was after helping you because he was watching some really great stuff on TV or else? Just out of my imagination. 🙂
When you said about how that big mall was a major attraction, it really sounded like any big cities in Asia where malls are tourist attractions and some people do actually consider shopping a relaxing thing to do. But I’m glad to know that beyond Honolulu things are different.
Looking forward to reading more posts from Hawaii and Samoa! The latter is a place I rarely read about — because there are not a lot of people who go there to begin with, I suppose.
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Bama you have a wild imagination! 🙂
Oh yes, I’ve seen big malls advertised as tourist attractions in other places too, and that many people consider shopping a hobby. I just don’t understand it, though I think there are malls in the world that are architecturally fabulous.
One more post coming on Hawaii.
Samoa was *amazing* – very different and wonderful.
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Hi Alison and Don,
Good to read you again…although I did NOT get a notification to my email, I checked back to see if you were on the road again, even though I did sign up for notifications? Ok, will try again….. 🙂
We spent a month in India culminating with the camel fair in Pushkar! Must be one of the most exotic places we have lived. Went on to Turkey, Israel, Spain and are now headed to Morocco.
http://www.greenglobaltrek.blogspot.com
Best to both of you. Enjoy!
xxxx
Peta
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Hi Peta, good to hear from you. I don’t understand why you wouldn’t get notifications. Hope it’s fixed now.
You went to the Pushkar camel fair! Isn’t it just the most amazing thing! We were completely gobsmacked every day.
We are looking forward to Turkey and Morocco – maybe next autumn.
Sounds like you’re having an a fabulous time.
Happy travels,
Alison
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Believe me the heart and soul of Hawaii is still there and you definitely would have got a peek at it on the North Shore. Small towns and wilderness areas of Maui and the Big Island are incredible. There are still superficial touristy areas but they are fewer and far between than on Oahu
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Yes, I have heard that from friends who have been to the other islands, and wish we could have gotten to see *that* Hawaii, but we were basically in transit crossing the Pacific. Maybe some other time we’ll get to the heart of the matter, so to speak, and spend time on the other islands. I do understand that Oahu is the most populated, commercialized and touristy of them all. And we could feel the difference once we got out of Honolulu, even on Oahu, but nevertheless this was our experience of Hawaii. Oahu/Honolulu is what it is.
Alison
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You are right, it is what it is and I agree that the beach is still beautiful despite being surrounded by high-rises.
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From the looks of it I think I would be rather disappointed with Honolulu… I mean there is that iconic view towards Diamond Head at the end of Waikiki, but from your account and photos it doesn’t feel like there was much soul. And that night view from the hotel window could easily have been somewhere here in Hong Kong, save the coconut palms on the avenue. The food sounds awful too!
Still, I’m glad you and Don went up north for a day though the weather wasn’t at its best. I adore both pineapple and ice cream so will take note of the Dole Plantation if I ever do go. And macadamias – isn’t Hawaii famous for those?
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I think there is soul to be found in Honolulu going by what other commenters have said, it’s just that, for various reasons we didn’t find it. We didn’t find it in Lima or Quito either, but we did find it in Buenos Aires and Mexico City and Delhi. Or if not soul then something, or some experiences, that felt fascinating and juicy. On the other hand I have a friend who went to Quito and felt the soul of the place immediately. I guess there’s no rhyme or reason to it and your experience of Honolulu could be quite different from ours. I agree the night view could be in any big city and there’s a lot of Honolulu that’s like that – highrises everywhere. Apparently there’s good food if you know where to find it 🙂 Having said that, and all I’ve learned about Hawaii I would never recommend anyone go to Oahu. As other commenters have indicated the soul is probably on Maui and the Big Island.
Once we got out of the city we found more to intrigue us despite the weather. And yes, macadamias abound!
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What an interesting read! Loved the pictures too. Still want to visit Hawaii some day.
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Thanks so much. Hawaii is definitely worth a visit! There is so much more to it than what we saw, and we return to Oahu in May when we plan to do some hiking and snorkelling – saving the best til last. Also apparently the Big Island and Maui are both more ‘Hawaiian’ and fabulous.
Alison
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Great read!!! Beautiful photos as always! I hope you have a wonderful Holiday season and Best wishes for the New Year! xoxoxoxoxoxo
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Thanks Angie. Wishing you a wonderful holiday season too, and may 2015 be all you could wish for! xoxoxoxox
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Lovely to have found your blog. Do check mine out!
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Thanks so much. Your blog looks yummy!
Happy 2015. Cheers, Alison
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Hi A and D,
Aloha from Kauai where I am vacationing with family. We are having a unique and very uncharacteristically cold evening tonight, brrr… A good night for reading and catching up with old friends. Happy Travels,
Paula
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Hi Paula, we had a couple of cold evenings in Hawaii too. Happy 2015. Hope it’s a wonderful year for you and your family. Cheers, Alison
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We only went the BIg Island and Kauai. Then to Maui on 2nd trip 6 yrs. later.
For myself personally, being in Hawai’i was like being Vancouver BC…a lot of locals of Asian descent ..but minus the palm trees and tropical heat!
I think you have to visit Calgary when I believe that Vancouver is Canada’s Pacific Rim city. (I also lived in Toronto for over 20 yrs.)
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It’s interesting that you found Hawaii like Vancouver in terms of the population demographic. You must have felt right at home, except for the lack of rain 🙂
I’ve been to Calgary many years ago in late winter – perhaps not the best time to see it, but I was there for a figure skating competition.
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Hawaii is amongst one of my favourite holiday destinations. I have never been able to plan a trip to Hawaii but I have always wanted to visit this beautiful location. There is how that we didn’t knew about Hawaii, thanks to your post we are a bit more wiser.
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Thanks Shamik. I hope you get to Hawaii one day. It’s beautiful.
Namaste
Alison
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