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#WPLongform, Burmese wedding, Child monks, Myanmar wedding, photography, thanaka, travel, Yangon, yangon River ferry
20-24 February 2013.
I’d wanted to go to Burma for forty years ever since I’d seen pictures of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda in Rangoon, now reverted to it’s non-English name of Yangon. And of course the country is now known as Myanmar. When I heard the people say Yangon they could just have easily been saying Rangoon – it really is something unpronounceable half way between the two. Don didn’t really want to go to Myanmar at all. I wasn’t taking no for an answer.
Back in the 80’s the longest you could stay was seven days, but you can’t see much in seven days. Then, under a military dictatorship that still runs the country, it was closed to the world entirely for about the last thirty years or so. It only reopened its borders to tourists about three years ago. It’s probably the one place that it was worth waiting all this time to finally get to go there.
At the time, for whatever unconscious reasons, Don wanted to be going anywhere but Myanmar. I knew he was feeling some fear about it, and we talked about it, acknowledging that it didn’t seem to be rational, and we’d gone ahead and made all our bookings for planes and boats and hotels and here finally was the day we were to fly to Yangon. He’d tried to check in online before we went to the airport and was stopped when the Air Asia site wouldn’t accept his insurance refusal, and then wouldn’t accept his credit card when he tried to pay for it anyway, so he couldn’t proceed with the online check-in.
Standing in line for forty-five minutes to check in. Finally get to the counter and are told by the person there she can’t check us in because we owe some money and have to go to the customer service counter. I get fierce with her a bit – it’s her responsibility, her airline, her airline’s faulty website. Didn’t help. I’m pretty fired up by now. I am not missing that flight! With Don keeping up behind me as best he can I push through the crowds to the customer service counter only to find another long line parallel to the four or five service windows. Our place at the end of the line is right next to the last window. As soon as the person at that window leaves I step right up there. I have no compunction about doing this. No guilt. I want what I want and I see an opportunity to get it, and pity any poor soul who gets in my way. We find out yes of course it’s the stupid insurance issue that’s the problem. The person serving us goes to talk to some techie guy. At this point I hiss at Don – get your energy off this! Right now! You agreed to go! We’ve made all our bookings, spent all this money on hotels, so just back off with blocking the flow of forward movement. He later said that I was right, even though he didn’t like the way I said it. And he was right. I was fierce when maybe a more gentle approach may have been just as effective.
Our person comes back to tell us we have to wait while they sort it out. No! We are not waiting! It emerges that the quickest solution is to pay for the insurance. For $20 YES we say! Now it won’t accept my credit card! So we pay cash and head back to the equally long check in line. Well I’ve already stood in that line for forty-five minutes, damned if I’m going to do it again, so I head up to the front, and finally, finally we get checked in, with many apologies all round, and head off to passport control, security, and our gate, with a little time to spare. If I hadn’t done what I’d done we’d never have made the flight, and I doubt that anyone at Air Asia would have cared.
The flight was smooth and uneventful. On arrival we got through customs and immigration without a hitch and changed US$200 for 170,800 Kyat (pronounced chat), and immediately got a fixed-rate taxi to our hotel – not luxurious, but in a good location downtown and right next to this, the Sule Pagoda. It is believed that one of the Buddha’s hairs is enshrined there.
Credit cards are not accepted in Myanmar (with the exception of a very few high-end hotels and restaurants) and there are no ATM’s except a few in Yangon that only work for Yangon banks. You must have crisp new US dollars (and I think they might also accept Euros) to change into the local currency. We spent the better part of an hour at the bank in Vancouver going through US dollars note by note to make sure none were damaged or creased in any way. Good thing. Every time we changed money each note was carefully inspected. Since credit cards are not used, so online payment is not possible, we spent most of the next day going to two different airline offices, and the ferry office to pay for the flights and boat trip we’d booked online.
A sim card for your cell phone in Thailand costs $3 and can be topped up at any time and used all over the country. A sim card in Yangon costs $25, can’t be topped up, and can only be used in Yangon. We didn’t buy one.
Apart from the truly extraordinary Shwe Dagon Pagoda, which I’ll cover in the next post, Yangon is about the people. We found them to be universally friendly and helpful, except perhaps for this lot – didn’t want to get too close to this lot, they look a bit fierce.
The gamblers
Many of the women and children, and a few of the men wear a white face paint called thanaka. It is a cosmetic cream made from ground bark and it’s possible that it has been in use for over 2000 years. It’s a traditional skin conditioner that provides protection from sunburn and is believed to help remove acne. It is applied in all kinds of patterns of swirls and lines and leaves.
Buddhist nun. I love their pink and orange robes.
Heading home from school
Sidewalk breakfast for a monk.
Sidewalk get together. I saw them all sitting chatting, and we all laughed when I gestured to indicate how they were so nicely arranged in a semi circle, and then took a photograph of them.
Down below, and up above
Phone booth. Seriously. It’s wired into the phone system and if you don’t have a cell phone this is where you make your phone calls, presumably both local and long-distance. We saw several such “booths” on the streets of Yangon. One was just a table and chair, and some plastic stools for customers to sit on, with the wiring disappearing up overhead.
Unlike all other Asian countries we’ve been to, including India, and other cities in Myanmar, there are no motorbikes in Yangon. Apparently at some time in the past a wayward motorbike killed a government official and they’ve been banned ever since.
Because it is there, we took the local ferry across the Yangon River to the small town of Dala. (Plenty of motorbikes in Dala.)
Local taxi across the river
On arrival in Dala, amidst the crowds of people, cars, hawkers, motorbikes, and bicycles pouring off the ferry, and those waiting to get on, we were accosted by a trishaw driver who wanted to take us somewhere. Anywhere. But of course we wanted to walk. So he walked with us, chatting away. We took in the crowded sights and sounds of all the activity around the ferry terminal then walked further into the town.
Arriving from the ferry – egg delivery
Chicken delivery – there were at least three or four bicycles loaded up with chickens like this one
People delivery
Walking further into the town we came across baby Buddha boy playing with his buddy. As far as we could make out all male children become monks – for a week, or a month, or longer, or for life. All of them, and at least some of the girls, go into the monastery for some period of time.
As we walked further along the road we could hear music. Our trishaw driver told us it was a wedding so we followed the sound. Once again, except for the unique style of dress of the bride and groom, we found it was like small country weddings just about anywhere, the local hall decorated and everyone wearing their shiny best. Of course we were invited to enter, invited to eat, invited to join in.
The bride with her mother, and with her groom
On the journey back across the river people were feeding the seagulls
And on the journey back across the river two monks sitting nearby overheard us talking about Aung San Suu Kyi. It was interesting. I’m sure they could not understand our conversation, but at the mention of her name one of them softly repeated it. They got what we were talking about.
Aung San Suu Kyi is Myanmar’s Nelson Mandela. Even before the general election of 1990 in which her party had won 59% of the vote, and 81% of the seats in parliament, she had been put under house arrest. She was under house arrest for 15 of the 20 years from 1990 to 2010, the time of her most recent release. Even though she has since been elected to parliament, a military junta that had previously assassinated her father still essentially rules the country. She is a hero both in Myanmar and internationally. One man told me hopefully, and proudly, that in 2014 or 2015 his country will have proper democratic elections.
Things are changing. She has met with Obama at the White House, Rodham Clinton has been to Myanmar. The Norwegian Government, I believe, is helping set up the changes required for the country to become a democracy. Many businesses openly have photographs of her and her father on display. And after three years of being open to the world, the tourist industry is starting to thrive.
A delicious buffet dinner combined with an exquisite traditional dance performance, and the incomparable Shwe Dagon Pagoda in the next post.
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted.
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2015.
I’m very interested in Burma, and plan to visit next year if time allows. Thanks for the posting. I look forward to your next post.
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Thanks Genete. I have to say that I hope this will be the least interesting of the posts on Burma – as we travelled it got more and more amazing. The next post will be about the Shwe Dagon Pagoda which is jaw-dropping in its size, grandeur and beauty, and definitely the highlight of Yangon. After that – Mandalay, Bagan, and best of all Inle Lake.
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Ali, I had to laugh while I was reading your description of the process of deciding and getting to Burma. I can SO picture you doing that! And I could picture Do n energetically blocking the way. I always lov e your posts.
BTW – WHERE are you in Mexico?
Many hugs, Kay
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Thanks Kay. Yes I suppose it was all very “us”. I knew his fear was blocking us and I was having none of it! Turns out we had an extraordinary time in Burma. The whole trip was amazing. I run out of superlatives!
Hugs from us
Ali
PS If you scroll to the top of the post and look at the column on the right you’ll see exactly where we are in Mexico. Chuckle. 🙂
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I love the mini nun and tiny monk 🙂
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There is no mini nun. ??
Do you mean the child in the photo above the nun in her pink robes?
All the nuns wear the same pink and orange robes. Plenty of photos of mini nuns to come 🙂
Yes, the tiny monk – so cute.
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Can’t wait 🙂
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Alison… Great blog and photos. I could see my wife Peggy charging through the lines like you. (grin) I felt your photos did a great job of capturing life in Burma and particularly liked the chicken man. As for Buddha’s lock of hair, I was reminded of all the churches I visited in Europe this past winter with their bits and pieces of saints. I look forward to your continuing story. Curt
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Thanks Curt.I guess Peggy can be as determined as me eh? Sometimes it’s a very useful trait 🙂
Ah yes, all the religious relics – it’s the same the world over. It was in Thailand I think that we actually saw a mummified monk is a glass case.
Alison
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Alison… I assume it will be OK with you if I reblog your piece on Gaudi Friday. I think my blog would benefit from the addition.
Curt
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Gosh Curt, I am honoured. I’d be delighted. Thank you!
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Thanks. 🙂
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Wonderful story telling – felt like I was along 🙂
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Thanks, Marga. Good to get this kind of feedback. I like taking everyone along on our journey.
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I love your hiss at Don “get your energy off this”…..I’m trying not to laugh, ok? But that just struck me as so funny. I can see me saying that to my husband; that would stop him in his tracks. I’ve got to save that for just the right moment.
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We both laughed out loud at your comment. Yes save it for the right moment, though I have to admit it came to me completely spontaneously in the moment. I knew Don had some reluctance to going, but suddenly I got this clarity about what was happening and the words came pouring out of my mouth 🙂
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Hi Alison. Thank you and grateful for your post. As I was reading the beginning of your post, I heard from within…this is what it looks like when someone is blocking or sabotaging something happening. And then I came upon your words to Don. I can so see my behavior through Don. You go girl…with your force of not letting something get in your way! What a blessing you and Don are to each other! I also heard within perhaps you may have lived in Burma before and had a wonderful life because you’ve had a deep attraction to go and perhaps Don didn’t? Who knows. I enjoyed my experiences this morning reading your post. 🙂 Oh, I like the picture of the little girl and boy above the Buddhist nun wearing the pretty pink and orange robe.
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Hi Pam. I’m glad you enjoyed the post, and could get to see sabotaging in action. I’m sure I only recognize it in others (eg Don in this situation) because of gradually coming to recognize it in myself over the years. Now I recognize it in myself almost immediately, and just refocus on the direction I want to go in.
Yes, what a blessing Don and I are to each other. I cannot even begin to tell the ways. Neither of us would be where we are without the support and teachings we’ve had from each other.
We think it was more like Don had a horrible past life there.
Aren’t those children sweet? I love photographing children.
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Yes, they are sweet. I can see your joy come through in photographing children! 🙂
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You crack me up, Alison. I love how you told Don to get his energy off of this. haha. Aung San Suu Kyi is impressive. I love powerful driven Asian women like her. My wife watched a documentary and said that she had to sacrifice time with her family to make the changes in her country. Big sacrifice.
I have eaten in a Burmese restaurant and I love the food. Can’t wait to hear about your feast.
{{{Hugs]}} Kozo
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Yes, Aung San Suu Kyi is an amazing person. Is that documentary called The Lady? I’ve heard about it, and some friends here in Mexico have it and will lend it to us – just have to remember to get it. Sacrifice – she couldn’t get to be with her husband when he died. They wouldn’t give him a visa to enter Burma, and she was afraid (probably rightly so) that they wouldn’t let her back in again if she left the country. So sad.
We’re not foodies Kozo, and don’t take well to spicy food, so we mostly ate western. However there’ll be plenty of stories of the feast of adventures we had there.(((hugs))) Alison
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Wonderful post! I love the storytelling and the photos–you have such a good eye. I am still smiling at the photo of the three school boys.
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Thanks Naomi, glad you’re enjoying it. Yes, I love the three school boys too; such lovely easy open affection. We saw it all the time. I forgot to mention it. Thanks for the reminder. I’ll put something about it in the next post.
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I am continuing to enjoy your travels and the extraordinary photos. Great narrative. I sense your strong will in your posts and know how that can be necessary for this kind of travel!
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Thanks Eric, I’m so glad you continue to enjoy our adventures. I read your comment to Don and we both had a chuckle. He said – it’s not hard to sense your strong will! lol. And then, joking, “The whole world knows I’m a wimp now”. But you are right of course, sometimes a strong will is the only thing that gets you through. And adaptability. Thanks for your kind comment re my photos.
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This very interesting really!
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Thanks Aina. Glad you enjoyed it. Lots more to come on Burma – it’s a fascinating country.
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K C Lam. & Jennie Thanks for the Credit Card information. They discourage outflow of their money but they want to earn your every penny. Beautiful photos but the mode of transport is almost the same in SE Asian country no proper enforcement always Jam packed with customers. Dread to see if two jam packed were to collide the injured
will excide the number of victim of a normal 40 person Bus. What about the insurance?. Thanks Alison & Don keep travelling and posting. KC
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I don’t think they discourage outflow. It’s just really behind the rest of the modern world. I think eventually things will change with regard to currency transactions, and they will get international ATM’s as tourism grows. I don’t think Burma is any different from anywhere else in terms of wanting tourist income to boost the economy and you can’t blame them for that.
Oh those over-crowded trucks! Same in India, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam. What insurance? I doubt anyone has any in any of those countries. It’s a bit different in Malaysia I know. And Thailand too.
Thanks for commenting.
Alison and Don
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Hi Alison, thanks for visiting my blog. I discovered yours through my friend’s blog, “Wrong on So Many Levels”. (http://headingfortheterminus.blogspot.com/). Your description of the start of your trip, and introduction to Yangon were very entertaining, and the photos, amazing. I look forward to reading more. Frank
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Hi Frank (I will try not to call you Krank again! – such a weird typo) – thanks for your kind words. Glad you’re finding the posts about Burma interesting. It was certainly an extremely interesting place to visit. Don’t know if you’ve looked at it yet or not but I think “Burma (Myanmar) – Part 2” is one of the best.
Cheers
Alison
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Ah, so it wasn’t an editorial comment on my writing. Whew! 😉
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So interesting ~ I can’t be specific because it applies to everything! 🙂
The crisp US bills – so good to know. I had no idea.
This entire post provides back to back awesome information! Thank you for the helpful details and descriptive writing.
It’s amazing that you two attract these merry weddings into your experiences, what special moments to share. The ferocious Alison at the airport made me laugh.
“Stop blocking the energy flow!”.
That has all the potential to be a very popular tagline!!
~Andrea<3
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Thanks Andrea.
I’m only fierce when I need to be lol, otherwise I’m a big softie. (Not sure Don would entirely agree with this, but thank God he loves me anyway!)
Oh the weddings, and local celebrations! It’s amazing serendipity! We can’t believe how lucky we are.
I hope in your long visit here you read Yangon part 2. I think it’s the best of the Burma posts.
Alison
❤
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Well, crap. I have only read part 1 and now I really want to go to Burma this year. I really love the street photos. I usually see photos of the major sites, which are totally amazing, but it is this street life that I love to photograph and explore the most.
Also, I like the narrative, travelog approach to these posts. That is something you don’t often see anymore and it takes us right along with you.
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Thanks so much Jeff, glad you’re enjoying the Burma posts. The street life is rich and fascinating – everywhere we went. Have you seen the photos of the wharf at Mandalay yet? Just amazing the activity that goes on there.
I guess it hasn’t occurred to me to do anything other than travel narrative, so it’s good to hear that it draws you in. Thanks.
Alison
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The wharf at Mandalay is intense. That looks like a great place to just stop and watch for hours. I’m very drawn in. I read parts 1-4 last night but made myself stop so I could enjoy each bit fully.
Did you take enough cash for the whole trip? I think there are more and more ATMs everyday but I’m not sure – it is changing so rapidly.
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I’m sorry we don’t remember how much, but yes we took enough cash with us for the whole trip (just under 3 weeks). Your cash must be very new undamaged $US. When we changed cash each bill was inspected. I also hear it is changing rapidly and that in the big centres anyway there maybe are ATM’s now, and maybe more hotels take credit cards.
Glad you’re enjoying my stories of Burma. It was a highlight of SE Asia for us, (even despite Don’s initial misgivings).
Alison
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Yes, the wharf is definitely a fabulous place to stop and watch for hours. Endlessly fascinating.
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Well, ATMs are more widely available now. And I didn’t see any of those cool “phone booths.” Everyone has cell phones now, like the rest of the world! You sure got some great shots!
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Thanks Jane. I’m happy to hear people have cell phones now, they’re such an incredible tool for communication and development. Also that there are ATMs. We knew that tourism was headed for a huge boom. Sounds like a lot changed just in the past 2 years.
Alison
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Oh, Alison, how I enjoyed reading about your experience trying to get on your flight. I admire your tenacity and determination to make it happen. And of course your comment to Don had me chuckling. However the best part of this post was learning more about Burma. We too have had this on our radar for the past couple of years but have yet to make it there. I plan on spending some delightful time reading the rest of your posts about this fascinating country. ~ Joanne (by the way, my birth middle name is also Louise)
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I was fierce that day. I learned at the feet of my dear mother how to be fierce when needed, and I know that if I hadn’t we’d never have made the flight.
For all Don’s resistance to going to Burma at all, we had an amazing time, and for me it remains one of the highlights of our travels.
Alison
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Most of the time I am pretty mellow. My fiercest moments are saved for defending my family, friends, or anyone being abused. But boy look out if that is the situation…
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Hi Alison and Don!
I have been following your blog for a year or two now. I just read all of your entries about Burma. We are leaving for a 3 week travel adventure to Burma in 2 days. Our son is a travel agent for Asia Transpacific Journeys in Boulder, CO. We are very excited to see many of the same sights you experienced. Your way with words and fabulous photos always make me feel like I am right there with you. We are the same age and I really admire your sense of adventure and gypsy style! Good luck and good health to both of you!
Sharon
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Thank you so much Sharon. I’m glad you’re enjoying the blog. Burma remains one of the highlights of all our travels. We absolutely loved it. Safe travels, and have a wonderful time!
Alison
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