Don: After two weeks visiting family in Sweden, and three weeks staying with family in Montreal we began our journey to South and Central America with a flight to Buenos Aires via Atlanta. We try to avoid taking flights that stop in the U.S.A. because of the additional levels of security. Our flight from Montreal to Atlanta was a case study. We tried checking in online, but couldn’t get a seat assigned for that portion of the trip, so we had to check in at the airport. We handed over our passports and the temporary “non-boarding” passes we’d printed out. We were asked for proof we’d paid the Reciprocity Fee to the Argentinian Government, which we had. So far so good: then we were asked how long we planned to stay in Argentina. Two months we replied. Do you have proof of onward travel from Argentina within 90 days of your arrival? No we don’t. We can’t board you without proof. When we asked what we needed to do we were told that we would have to provide printed proof of onward travel out of Argentina such as an airline or bus ticket.
We went to the airport hotel and used their guest office. A very good thing that we’d come to the airport three-and-a-half hours before our flight! We had to make a decision as to when we’d leave Argentina and where we’d go. After checking the calendar and having some remarkably stress-free discussion we opted to book a one-way flight from Ushuaia to Santiago, Chile for November 20. That gives us some flexibility for travelling around Patagonia. With the flight details printed we headed back to the airline check-in counter. Now we would be allowed on the plane! We still hadn’t been assigned our seats and were told we’d get boarding passes at the gate. We still had only the “non-boarding” passes we’d originally printed out. From the airline check-in counter through U.S. immigration to the secure departure zone these were scrutinized and scanned no less that six separate times. At the gate we were finally given boarding passes after someone had volunteered to relinquish their seat on the overbooked plane.
Alison: I don’t understand how the United States gets to have its border crossing on Canadian soil in Canadian airports. It’s been since 911 of course, and I guess they don’t want those terrorists even getting on the plane, but it makes me wonder if other countries with flights into the U.S. have U.S. immigration checks at the airport of origin or if its only Canada that allows this. And the checking of our boarding passes! Six times! The level of paranoia made me sad. It reminds me of Robin Williams speaking about Canada: You are a big country. You are the kindest country in the world. You are like a really nice apartment over a meth lab.
A ten hour red-eye from Atlanta to Buenos Aires, Don slept, I didn’t, whiling away the time watching old episodes of Smash until first my, and then Don’s laptop batteries were exhausted. It took forever to get through Argentinian customs. We were not asked for proof of onward travel. Sigh. The same happened in Thailand. Same law, so we’d bought a flight from Bangkok to Phnom Penh, choosing some arbitrary date, and were not asked for it on entering Thailand. We so wish to travel free, to not be locked in by dates, and we know that mostly proof of forward travel out of the country is not checked, but what if it’s the one time you get an immigration officer who’s having a bad day, or is seriously anal and follows every letter of the law? Not worth the risk we decide. And the flight from Montreal to Atlanta – that counter clerk made it very clear we were not getting on the plane to Atlanta without proof of onward travel from Argentina. Sigh. Again.
Even though Don slept on the flight we were both brain dead on arrival, me especially – slightly sick and dizzy from lack of sleep. Don’t do as well with lack of sleep as I used too. Very thankful for a pre-arranged trustworthy driver at the airport to take us to our apartment.
Don: It took us over an hour to get there through heavy traffic in downtown Buenos Aires but Mariana was waiting for us and very helpful in making sure that everything was to our liking. She even lent me one of her cell phones to use while we’re here. The apartment is funky and noisy but there’s plenty of hot water for showers, the beds are comfortable enough, we have a small galley kitchen with a gas stove, and there’s a nice table for meals, security is good and it’s in a safe area. After an afternoon nap we went out shopping for the basics and found a great local store for cheese and cooked meats then came home for a ham and cheese sandwich. Ali had another long nap and then we went out for what was, for us, a late supper, but the normal dinnertime for Porteños (=people of the port), as the locals here call themselves.
We’ve been warned a number of times to watch out for thieves and pickpockets in Buenos Aires, but so far we’ve felt completely safe wandering the streets. We don’t have flashy jewellery or cameras with enormous lenses. We keep our backpacks close to us, we dress down rather than up and we keep our eyes open as we walk around.
What I’m noticing is that the more we travel the easier the transition to new surroundings seems to get. Even the hiccup about having to have proof of onward travel caused us little or no distress. We just did what we needed to do and moved on.
Alison: And here we are in Argentina. Today is day 6 and we are well settled into our new home. The transitions become easier and easier – apart from the brain mush and sore eyes that come from overnight flights.
And on day two we found the best ice-cream store in town 🙂
Photo of the day: Tango dancers, Buenos Aires, Argentina
All words and images by Alison Louise Armstrong unless otherwise noted.
© Alison Louise Armstrong and Adventures in Wonderland – a pilgrimage of the heart, 2010-2015.
Are the jacaranda trees still flowering there? Miss the purple bliss of Bienos Aires. Look forward to your next update!
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We have not seen any blooming jacaranda trees 😦
No jacaranda trees at all really, but then I wouldn’t necessarily recognise one.
It is early spring and quite cool, but we’re enjoying BA so far.
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American customs make me sad too. Even though I haven’t had your experience, I recently crossed the border to Canada for a couple of weeks. They didn’t demand proof that I would leave, but they were incredibly rude about asking questions. I’m glad you made it through, though, and I’m envious of the ice cream shop!
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I’m sorry to hear you were given a hard time entering Canada. I’m both sad and surprised that the Canadian border guys would be rude! So un-Canadian of them! (joke)
As good ice-cream as we’ve had anywhere including Italy 🙂
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You’re going to have so much fun! My son is in Salta teaching on a Fulbright, and spent his junior year abroad in BA. I asked him for the name of the wonderful Middle Eastern place we went to so I could recommend it to you. Here is his reply:
“Sarkis! They can find it at Thames 1100, in Palermo. I recommend they order falafel, pasta de garbanzo (hummus), and banir.
Also top notch, and a bit less expensive: ChanChan, that Peruvian restaurant we went to, at Hipólito Yrigoyen 1390 (just off Plaza del Congreso)…although they are sometimes closed at unpredictable intervals
I also highly recommend a wine bar called La Cava Jufre, located at Jufré 201 (just off Scalabrini Ortiz)
It’s very chill and the owner is friendly and awesome.”
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Thank you for all this info! We will be sure to check out the restaurants – they sound great. Please thank your son for us.
So far we’ve been to the cemetery of all cemeteries(!), and the San Telmo Sunday market where the above photo was taken. Plus walked all over town to get a local transport card, and find somewhere, anywhere, that would sell us a sim card – not easy like in SE Asia, but we finally found it today.
BA is lovely! And many people very elegant. And we’ve been invited to a fashion show!
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My son was happy to share his favorite spots. I hope to hear about them in future posts, if you like them too.
There aren’t that many museums or formal places to go and learn about the place, at least for a city of that size, but the cemetery was outstanding. Here is the link to post I did about our visit there: http://naomibaltuck.wordpress.com/2012/04/13/the-weekly-photo-challenge-two-subjects-and-one-important-thing-to-remember/
Have fun!
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Totally agree about flying through the States – no-one I know does anymore,also because of added risk. I personally was told I am on a blacklist by my Coptic Christian the very second I bought a plane ticket from Saudi Arabia to Afghanistan, something I found out to be very true when travelling from Saudi to Sweden via Amsterdam, where they were waiting for me, even testing my flashstick or whatever it is called,as well as me of course. Please go to Ecuador – beautiful! A friend of mine was enraptured by Patagonia and I enjoyed Colombia, though not Venezuela when I was there…and please please tell me in advance if/when you go to Nicaragua! What an incredible area of the world! Guatemala, stunning, wonderful people but serious risks even for seasoned travellers – but you have been to Mexico…Uruguay, Bolivia, Peru…and French Guinea, where I worked in the jungle in some of my military days…..aaaah…am so interested in what you’ll see and do!
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Okay, good info to never buy a plane ticket to Afghanistan. Not that we would be likely to do that any time soon anyway – a bit too unsettled for us though I’d love to go there.
Ecuador is definitely on the list, as is Galapagos of course. Venezuela not, Colombia not, tho that may change. Peru def on the list – how could we miss Macchu Picchu, Sacsayhuaman etc. Uruguay yes within the next few weeks. Bolivia is a question mark at the moment. Yes to Guatemala as long-time friends who I haven’t seen for years live there – always good to know someone on the ground. And I suppose we’ll just have to go to Nicaragua since you recommend it so highly 🙂
Also we’ve heard good things about Costa Rica and Panama – so many countries, so little time.
Our first trip out of BA is north to Iguazu of course, then Uruguay, then Patagonia. After that . . . . . .
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I’m E-X-H-A-U-S-T-E-D just reading about the actual travel-aspects (the mechanics; the logistics) of your journey. It brings to mind the movie: “Planes, Trains, and Automobiles.”
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Yes it is all a bit like “Planes, Trains and Automobiles”, and requires a lot of research and planning, and some planning we don’t even want to do (like being locked into onward travel). It gets easier the more we do, and the internet is a gift from the gods – makes getting the info we need easier, though we missed the bit about needing onward travel from Argentina.
But then we arrive, and over the first 2 or 3 days settle in and get our bearings, and start exploring. Then it gets to be fun.
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You two are total rock star travellers. LOVE the picture. Can’t wait for your next blog.
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Awww thanks. Next post is Mexico City – still not out of Mexico postwise, but will get to Argentina soon I promise 🙂
That photo – they were dancing on a 6ftx6ft very scuffed piece of particle board at a Sunday street market, with fabulous live musicians. You could tell they’d been doing it together for forever. I took a lot of shots – finally got one of him looking at me. Fun.
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Even with all the hassles, this makes me wish I was there (sigh).
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Yes, definitely worth it. We will go to a tango show – see some first class real tango, so then on FSU I can pretend I know what I’m talking about 🙂
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My wife is absolutely paranoid about travelling via the US and I have to agree anything can and will happen eventually if you stop there. I prefer going to Europe because of that but if ever we go to SA (bucket list) we may have to bite the bullet. BA has been on my radar for a long time and would love to stay there a few weeks after an Antartica cruise. I look forward to reading about your travels in Argentina and area.
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I’ve been to SA before – over 30 years ago now I did a four month overland tour, and I can say it is definitely worth it. The US border thing is a hassle but I wouldn’t think of it as dangerous, just tedious.
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This picture is so captivating! Oh, I could stare at it for hours!
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Oh Kelly thank you! Glad you feel I captured something. They’ve been doing this together for forever I think.
I took a lot of shots as usual, and usually I get one good one.
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I too just LOVE that wonderful photo!
I have friends who are in Nicaragua right now for a couple months, and they’ve been there before for several months. Would you like me to put you in touch with them?
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Thanks Kay! Yes please, we’d love to connect with your friends and maybe pick their brains a bit about Nicaragua. We probably won’t be there before late January so I guess they’ll be gone by then.
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They’re coming home for Christmas but are going back either there or someplace else in SA. I have a hard time keeping up with them. i’ll sen dhtem you blog and your email.
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Thanks
xox
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Hey we are also going to Ecuador January thru April if you are in Ecuador during that time would love to meet up with you!! It will be our 2nd time.
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Yes, let’s keep in touch! Our plan is to get to Ecuador in January. We want to go to Galapagos and the weather is no good before that. I’ll email you.
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i shall read your posts as you travel to many of the places I as a solo, mature traveler will have to plan if more detail…….having someone to share the WORK of travel is great, and for couples i expect the companionship is lovely.
onward travel: i read on another post that they suggested buying a fully refundable ticket to show when you travel to your destination and cancel this onward ticket once you decide when and where you plan to go next…
tango lessons in your plans?
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Oh yes, having someone to share the WORK (I know exactly what you mean!) of travel is a very great blessing, (especially as much of my time and energy goes into the blog) as is the companionship.
We didn’t think of a fully refundable ticket – seems so obvious! Will certainly keep it in mind for the future.
Tabgo watching certainly, but not lessons 🙂
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just beginning our retirement wanderings, so extremely grateful to know about the necessity of plans to leave a country in order to land there. Thanks!
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It doesn’t apply to all countries. Your need to check for each country, as they all have different rules for entry. Also Lee’s suggestion (above comment) is very useful – buy a refundable onward ticket. I can’t believe we didn’t think of it.
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Shudders! We had the same panic for the same reason in Atlanta flying to Buenos Aires. The trip is over before it has begun. Somehow we fast talked our way out of it. And then we were cognizant of this crazy situation and took all kind of precautions against it. Saw a guy getting harassed crossing by land from Panama to Costa Rica in the next line over for proof of onward travel while our guy just stamped our passport. Found lots of comment threads on blogs about this problem. Oh my!
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Thanks for the tip about even land crossings Eric. We know to be vigilant now. I have found one site that says Chile needs an onward ticket – I see the purchase of a lot of fully refundable air tickets in our future. Hopefully that will do it. I’m so glad I wrote about all this as we’ve gained a lot of important information.
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This is what we did… there were a few airlines that actually allow a ticket to be booked AND allow you to print that before paying. The ticket was canceled if no payment in 2-3 days. But we felt comfortable having a ticket in hand thinking the airline counter agent would never take time to confirm the validity of an onward ticket. It required a lot of internet time looking for airlines that did this but we did find them. I believe one of the Argentinian airlines did it but don’t recall exactly. Sometimes they were things like a ticket from Chile to the Middle East on an airline from that region I recall. Just a ticket anywhere. Anyway something to consider.
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Thank you for this info Eric. Much appreciated. We’ll certainly look into it as we go along. I’ve already established that Chile also requires proof of onward travel. Perhaps we’ll book a ticket from Santiago to Dubai 🙂
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Good luck! That is an incredible photo by the way. Wah! I want to be there. Sounds like you have your itinerary in place and maybe you know about this but we had no problemo entering Chile overland from Argentina and then took the Navimag ferry through the fiords from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt. Website here http://www.navimag.com/site/en/blog/ferries/ferry-evangelistas/ this was a lot of fun and there are a lot of options regarding costs.
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Woo Hooo! Such a wonderful place! Enjoy~
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Yes! We’re already loving it 🙂
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Welcome to the wonderful world of Homeland Security. I won’t say more, they are probably monitoring… Just joking, maybe. –Curt
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Maybe. That’s the scary part 🙂
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Good luck with everythingi – the world really is becoming more paranoid! Or is it just the US? Love and best wishes from Liz
Sent from my iPad
>
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Thanks Liz. I don’t think it’s just the US. Sad.
Love and hugs from us
Alison
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i am pooped. wow and this your “more we travel the easier the transition to new surroundings seems to get” mode. interesting notes you both shared – i am so clueless about traveling so yes, this was loaded with facts i did not know about. stay safe and abundant blessings. ♥
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Thanks Sun 🙂 We were pretty pooped ourselves by the time we got here, but those overnight flights will always do that. Now well settled in and enjoying BA.
Travel is a lot of work actually. You can’t just head off somewhere – all countries have their rules and regulations about entry, how long you can stay, etc And always the onward travel bookings – transport, accommodation, activities. Lots of research, emails, phone calls, etc. All so worth it.
Blessings to you too
Alison
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I know I’m not much of a commenter….I truly love this photo, and this post! 😀
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Thank you so much Angie. Glad you like it. Don discovered that the same couple actually appear in a BBC piece about BA a couple of years back. I guess they’ve been around a while.
I love it when you comment 🙂
Alison xox
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😀 I look forward to your posts! Beautiful photography and stories.
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Thanks 😀
❤
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Love how you guys are rolling with the punches. Surfing Legend David Nuuhiwa said, “True style is flowing through the transitions.” You guys got style. {{{hugs}}} kozo
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Thanks Kozo. Yes, it’s true. We are learning more than ever to roll with the punches. In the end it always turns out to be the sanest way to go.
((((hugs))))
Alison
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